Aftermarket Guages
IntegraB18LS
03-23-2003, 04:55 PM
Im looking for Autometer Ultra-Lite guages for my car I want the following guages:
Fuel Pressure
Oil Pressure
Nitrous Pressure
A/F Ratio
Vacume
They would be in Autometer full tripple side piller and the dash cluster
Problem is, Fuel Pressure guage is like 190$ for the electric guage! thats way to much money, What are the chances that the guage is going to leak if it was a mecanical guage? Also The oil pressure guage is cheap enough that i could afford eaither the electric or the mechanical, but i want it the same as the fuel pressure so that they have the same sweep.
Please let me know about any advice you have before i stick pressurised fuel into my cab, i know if it leaks i am in big trouble, but will it? how could i prevent it?
Kyle
Fuel Pressure
Oil Pressure
Nitrous Pressure
A/F Ratio
Vacume
They would be in Autometer full tripple side piller and the dash cluster
Problem is, Fuel Pressure guage is like 190$ for the electric guage! thats way to much money, What are the chances that the guage is going to leak if it was a mecanical guage? Also The oil pressure guage is cheap enough that i could afford eaither the electric or the mechanical, but i want it the same as the fuel pressure so that they have the same sweep.
Please let me know about any advice you have before i stick pressurised fuel into my cab, i know if it leaks i am in big trouble, but will it? how could i prevent it?
Kyle
sak
03-25-2003, 06:26 PM
Reason why the electrical gauge is so much more expensive is because it just is. Firts off it needs a whle lot more wiring than the mechanical one.
The mechanical one is just a gaige that sits on the fuel filter. Thats it. Fuel pressue is read from there. For the electrical one you have to route it to the indside of the car. And routing a fuel line to the inside pof the car just isn't safe. thats why electrical ones are used for the inside one.
A/F s worthless and not accurate if its not a WBO2
The mechanical one is just a gaige that sits on the fuel filter. Thats it. Fuel pressue is read from there. For the electrical one you have to route it to the indside of the car. And routing a fuel line to the inside pof the car just isn't safe. thats why electrical ones are used for the inside one.
A/F s worthless and not accurate if its not a WBO2
GSR
03-26-2003, 12:47 PM
Originally posted by sak
A/F s worthless and not accurate if its not a WBO2
not all true.
sure you cant use the stock narrow band for tuning purposes where precise voltage is required but it will read the difference between rich and lean. the "disco light" will let you know if you need to let off the gas in cas something went wrong (leak, bad pump, bad injectors, etc)
its illegal to have a mechanical fp gauge in the cabin
A/F s worthless and not accurate if its not a WBO2
not all true.
sure you cant use the stock narrow band for tuning purposes where precise voltage is required but it will read the difference between rich and lean. the "disco light" will let you know if you need to let off the gas in cas something went wrong (leak, bad pump, bad injectors, etc)
its illegal to have a mechanical fp gauge in the cabin
sak
03-26-2003, 04:25 PM
Originally posted by GSR
not all true.
sure you cant use the stock narrow band for tuning purposes where precise voltage is required but it will read the difference between rich and lean. the "disco light" will let you know if you need to let off the gas in cas something went wrong (leak, bad pump, bad injectors, etc)
its illegal to have a mechanical fp gauge in the cabin
All it tells yo uif you are rich or lean. Doesn't tell you if you are running 14.7 or 12.5 A/F. Use it if you want. I bought my POS Autometer and found out the hard way. Good thing it didn't cost me a fortune.
Plus it only reads when you are at WOT. Which does nothing for you at idle or part throttle. Yeah you tune you car at WOT, but you don't drive your car at WOT.
I have since moved up to a wideband and it tells me everything I need. Every change in the A/F at every throttle position. Idle, part throttle, WOT, you name it.
But hey, your car, your money, do what you want. I was just merely giving you my 2 cents.
not all true.
sure you cant use the stock narrow band for tuning purposes where precise voltage is required but it will read the difference between rich and lean. the "disco light" will let you know if you need to let off the gas in cas something went wrong (leak, bad pump, bad injectors, etc)
its illegal to have a mechanical fp gauge in the cabin
All it tells yo uif you are rich or lean. Doesn't tell you if you are running 14.7 or 12.5 A/F. Use it if you want. I bought my POS Autometer and found out the hard way. Good thing it didn't cost me a fortune.
Plus it only reads when you are at WOT. Which does nothing for you at idle or part throttle. Yeah you tune you car at WOT, but you don't drive your car at WOT.
I have since moved up to a wideband and it tells me everything I need. Every change in the A/F at every throttle position. Idle, part throttle, WOT, you name it.
But hey, your car, your money, do what you want. I was just merely giving you my 2 cents.
GSR
03-27-2003, 10:03 AM
:rolleyes:
any meter will only read at wot unless youre running open loop all the time which is stupid. at idle or part-throttle (open loop) the ecu makes constant changes to your a/f in order to keep it close to 14.7 (and save gas) thats why the gauge fluctuates. for $50 you cant go wrong, like i said before it lets you know if something isnt functioning propertly, lean. helped me diagnose a bad pump.
a wideband o2 is $200, add $300 more for the controller+display... $500 to monitor your a/f...why? unless you tune yourself (which isnt very sart anyways) its a waste.
once a setup is dynotuned there is no need to know the exact a/f...a 0-1volt narrowband meter such as the "POS Autometer" will be fine just to let you know when something goes wrong and the mixture suddently becomes lean. do you see where im coming from
who's wb controller are you using? standalone? do you still use the stock narrowband for open loop? I just bought an ems and i'm trying to figure out if i can keep the stock o2 for a while...I bought it new (oe ntk/ngk) only a couple weeks ago and want to get some use out of it. them fu*kers aint cheap.
any meter will only read at wot unless youre running open loop all the time which is stupid. at idle or part-throttle (open loop) the ecu makes constant changes to your a/f in order to keep it close to 14.7 (and save gas) thats why the gauge fluctuates. for $50 you cant go wrong, like i said before it lets you know if something isnt functioning propertly, lean. helped me diagnose a bad pump.
a wideband o2 is $200, add $300 more for the controller+display... $500 to monitor your a/f...why? unless you tune yourself (which isnt very sart anyways) its a waste.
once a setup is dynotuned there is no need to know the exact a/f...a 0-1volt narrowband meter such as the "POS Autometer" will be fine just to let you know when something goes wrong and the mixture suddently becomes lean. do you see where im coming from
who's wb controller are you using? standalone? do you still use the stock narrowband for open loop? I just bought an ems and i'm trying to figure out if i can keep the stock o2 for a while...I bought it new (oe ntk/ngk) only a couple weeks ago and want to get some use out of it. them fu*kers aint cheap.
sak
03-27-2003, 02:09 PM
Originally posted by GSR
:rolleyes:
any meter will only read at wot unless youre running open loop all the time which is stupid. at idle or part-throttle (open loop) the ecu makes constant changes to your a/f in order to keep it close to 14.7 (and save gas) thats why the gauge fluctuates. for $50 you cant go wrong, like i said before it lets you know if something isnt functioning propertly, lean. helped me diagnose a bad pump.
My WBO2 reads everywhere not just WOT. Yes it tells yo uif you are running lean or rich, but how lean? How rich?
Originally posted by GSR
a wideband o2 is $200, add $300 more for the controller+display... $500 to monitor your a/f...
I guess you haven't been up to date on your import stuff then huh? :rolleyes:
A complete WBO2 kit can be had for $400 including display.
Originally posted by GSR
...why? unless you tune yourself (which isnt very smart anyways) its a waste.
Tunning it yourself is a waste? Wow! Thats a first. Please keep up to date in the import scene please as the AEM EMS can have the WBO2 kit recalibrate the fuel MAPS so the AEM EMS will run like a beauty.
Originally posted by GSR
once a setup is dynotuned there is no need to know the exact a/f...a 0-1volt narrowband meter such as the "POS Autometer" will be fine just to let you know when something goes wrong and the mixture suddently becomes lean. do you see where im coming from
Honestly, how many people actually bothers to dyno tune their car. Seriously. Have yo udyno tuned your car? Do you think every person who modyfies their car has it dyno tuned? Dyno tuning means $100+/hr out of your pocket. Only serious people or people who cares enough not to blow thier motors dyno tune them.
All those cars that blows motors most likely does't have their engines dyno tuned. Then they turn around and blame it on the SC or the Turbo or Nitrous because they were using it at the time. But in reality it was because they were too dumb tpo have it dyno tuned.
Originally posted by GSR
who's wb controller are you using? standalone? do you still use the stock narrowband for open loop? I just bought an ems and i'm trying to figure out if i can keep the stock o2 for a while...I bought it new (oe ntk/ngk) only a couple weeks ago and want to get some use out of it. them fu*kers aint cheap.
Wow! A minute there you were saying that the WBO2's are not worth it and now you have one?
I'm using the Techedge WBO2 kit along with my AEM EMS. So technically speaking we are using the same setup. The Stock narrowband O2 will not give you accurate readings from the AEM readout. My stock one said I was either at 12.7 or 18 A/F ratio. My dyno said I was in the 20's. How would you rate the stock narrowband O2? POS wouldn't you say?
:rolleyes:
any meter will only read at wot unless youre running open loop all the time which is stupid. at idle or part-throttle (open loop) the ecu makes constant changes to your a/f in order to keep it close to 14.7 (and save gas) thats why the gauge fluctuates. for $50 you cant go wrong, like i said before it lets you know if something isnt functioning propertly, lean. helped me diagnose a bad pump.
My WBO2 reads everywhere not just WOT. Yes it tells yo uif you are running lean or rich, but how lean? How rich?
Originally posted by GSR
a wideband o2 is $200, add $300 more for the controller+display... $500 to monitor your a/f...
I guess you haven't been up to date on your import stuff then huh? :rolleyes:
A complete WBO2 kit can be had for $400 including display.
Originally posted by GSR
...why? unless you tune yourself (which isnt very smart anyways) its a waste.
Tunning it yourself is a waste? Wow! Thats a first. Please keep up to date in the import scene please as the AEM EMS can have the WBO2 kit recalibrate the fuel MAPS so the AEM EMS will run like a beauty.
Originally posted by GSR
once a setup is dynotuned there is no need to know the exact a/f...a 0-1volt narrowband meter such as the "POS Autometer" will be fine just to let you know when something goes wrong and the mixture suddently becomes lean. do you see where im coming from
Honestly, how many people actually bothers to dyno tune their car. Seriously. Have yo udyno tuned your car? Do you think every person who modyfies their car has it dyno tuned? Dyno tuning means $100+/hr out of your pocket. Only serious people or people who cares enough not to blow thier motors dyno tune them.
All those cars that blows motors most likely does't have their engines dyno tuned. Then they turn around and blame it on the SC or the Turbo or Nitrous because they were using it at the time. But in reality it was because they were too dumb tpo have it dyno tuned.
Originally posted by GSR
who's wb controller are you using? standalone? do you still use the stock narrowband for open loop? I just bought an ems and i'm trying to figure out if i can keep the stock o2 for a while...I bought it new (oe ntk/ngk) only a couple weeks ago and want to get some use out of it. them fu*kers aint cheap.
Wow! A minute there you were saying that the WBO2's are not worth it and now you have one?
I'm using the Techedge WBO2 kit along with my AEM EMS. So technically speaking we are using the same setup. The Stock narrowband O2 will not give you accurate readings from the AEM readout. My stock one said I was either at 12.7 or 18 A/F ratio. My dyno said I was in the 20's. How would you rate the stock narrowband O2? POS wouldn't you say?
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