Masking medium for Lacquer paints?

Hi

Are Tamiya masking tape and 3M blue tape ok to mask for different colors?
I am experienced using acrylics on armor and aircraft and was wondering if the same masking tapes are good for lacquer spray paints.

Thanks a lot

Patrick

Tamiya tape is perfect. I've never used 3-M so I can't speak on it but I'm sure there are those that can. :)

Hi

I appreciate the answer. I use Tamiya masking tape for small, fine masking and use 3M blue tape for covering large areas as it is a lot cheaper. They both work great for me with acrylic paints (On armor/jet aircraft and ships).
I hate to just try on lacquer paint and mess up my paint job.

Thanks again

Patrick

They'll both work fine with lacquer.

I also use Aizu Micron masking tape. It's made in Japan, and comes in narrower widths that you can "bend" around tight curves. You can get it at Hobby Search, http://www.1999.co.jp or HobbyLink Japan, http://www.hlj.com. Shipping to the U.S. from Japan is very reasonable and these are both reliable companies.

Ddms

D

I appreciate the tip, next time I order from these Japanese MO's I will get some.

Thanks

Patrick

Didy,

is this tape thinner also? I'm wondering, because I'm trying to find a tape that will leave less of a step between colors. Tamiya tape works well, but if this is thinner, it would be great!

I also like the idea of being able to curve easier

I know it's expensive but I like to use BMF and it works great! It's thinner and you can really burnish it down. I'd give it a try. It really work for me.

RIZ

Tamiya tape, or BMF should work fine.

Yep, those ridges are an aggravation. Sorry to say, Micron tape is about the same thickness as Tamiya, but it's not as thick as Pactra and some others. I've had some success in masking off the stripe (or whatever) and then coming back and matching the mask line before I paint the stripe. If there's any ridge, I sand it down before clear coating.

I was using Scotch 3M masking tape "for delicate surfaces" until I discovered that it leaves a residue if it's left on too long. Anyway, I'm back to either Press n' Seal or that real wide Tamiya tape for big areas.

I haven't tried BMF for masking. I've always tended to be klutzy, and that hasn't improved with age. Whenever I cut away BMF, I worry that I'll slip and put a cut mark in paint and need to repaint the whole area. The narrow tape seems less risky.

Any thoughts?

Ddms

its thick i cut my own widths but its designed for masking
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3128/2577113268_663e3c1e00.jpg?v=0

I don't know how careful I would be with the BMF also, I have a hard enough time puttin' it on chrome trim http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/4/4_6_200v.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSfox000%283%29)


I bought a shitload of different size Tamiya tape sizes, but I'm going to try the BMF......I've seen Alex do amazing things with it http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/36/36_1_32v.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSfox000%283%29)

Alex, is there any secret to getting BMF residue off afterwards? I've tried Windex, 70% Rubbing Alcohol, Dishwashing detergent and I've gotten some bad advice and wiped a urethaned body with a quick wipe of enamel thinner, well, you can imagine what that did http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/4/4_2_204v.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSfox000%283%29)

I've gotten some bad advice and wiped a urethaned body with a quick wipe of enamel thinner, well, you can imagine what that did http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/4/4_2_204v.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSfox000%283%29)

Wow, this forum can save your life! I've used enamel thinner (mineral spirits) without a problem on lacquer finishes, and I've just assumed it would be equally harmless on urethane. Bad assumption.

OTOH, alcohol dissolves MM and Tamiya synthetic lacquers. Does it also dissolve urethane?

Ddms

I don't know how careful I would be with the BMF also, I have a hard enough time puttin' it on chrome trim http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/4/4_6_200v.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSfox000%283%29)


I bought a shitload of different size Tamiya tape sizes, but I'm going to try the BMF......I've seen Alex do amazing things with it http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/36/36_1_32v.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSfox000%283%29)

Alex, is there any secret to getting BMF residue off afterwards? I've tried Windex, 70% Rubbing Alcohol, Dishwashing detergent and I've gotten some bad advice and wiped a urethaned body with a quick wipe of enamel thinner, well, you can imagine what that did http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/4/4_2_204v.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSfox000%283%29)
ouch ive used goo gone with results im still stumped as to why the alcohol didnt work you didnt do it hard enough.

mineral spirits works 100% of the time but you obviously learned the same lesson i did :frown:

I think alcohol has the same effect on urethane base that it does on synthetic lacquer - most likely, it dissolves it. But I'm not certain about that. I'm painting a car with Dupont single-part urethane right now, so I'll urethane some scrap and see what alcohol does to it. I'll letchall know how it turns out.

But the 1-part touch-up paint and the 2-part clear are very different, chemically speaking. I never use the 2-part clear and don't have any on hand, so I can't try the same experiment with it. My guess is that it will resist the alcohol much better than the base. After all, full-size cars are finished with 2-part urethane clear, and that stuff is tough.

As to removing BMF residue from a urethaned surface, I think WD40 might do the trick nicely without harming the finish. But I don't know for sure. So if anyone would like to give it a try...

Ddms

I think alcohol has the same effect on urethane base that it does on synthetic lacquer - most likely, it dissolves it. But I'm not certain about that. I'm painting a car with Dupont single-part urethane right now, so I'll urethane some scrap and see what alcohol does to it. I'll letchall know how it turns out.

But the 1-part touch-up paint and the 2-part clear are very different, chemically speaking. I never use the 2-part clear and don't have any on hand, so I can't try the same experiment with it. My guess is that it will resist the alcohol much better than the base. After all, full-size cars are finished with 2-part urethane clear, and that stuff is tough.

As to removing BMF residue from a urethaned surface, I think WD40 might do the trick nicely without harming the finish. But I don't know for sure. So if anyone would like to give it a try...

Ddms
2 part urethane is not alcohol proof mostly it will attack the base before it attacks the clear

it can definetly save your car! http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/12/12_7_23.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSfox000%283%29)

Just prior to clearing my urethane base coat, I took a eyeglass cleaning towel slightly dipped in enamel cleaner and it wiped the urethane base coat right off down to the primer.

now, I didn't try it over 2k clears, I'd imagine the effects would have been different, though I do have a junkyard http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/10/10_1_136.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZSfox000%283%29) that I could try it on and give some results to save you from ruining a paint job!

I agree with that @ lownslow

the reason I didn't use wd40 on the BMF glue is I foiled before clearing and I didn't want to deal with possible fisheyes

Didy,
Enamel thinner works fine on laquered bodies, no problems, but not urethane base coats

I tried wiping a urethane-base finished surface with 99% isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol quickly dissolved the urethane base coat.

It softened Tamiya primer, but it didn't dissolve it. I had to do quite a bit of scraping and rubbing on an alcohol-soaked piece of PE in order to remove the primer.

So alcohol probably isn't the best thing for stripping Tamiya primer. But it sure
works on synthetic lacquer, urethane base and urethane clear coat.

But has anyone figured out how yet to remove BMF residue from urethane paint without damaging the finish?

Ddms

I tried wiping a urethane-base finished surface with 99% isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol quickly dissolved the urethane base coat.

It softened Tamiya primer, but it didn't dissolve it. I had to do quite a bit of scraping and rubbing on an alcohol-soaked piece of PE in order to remove the primer.

So alcohol probably isn't the best thing for stripping Tamiya primer. But it sure
works on synthetic lacquer, urethane base and urethane clear coat.

But has anyone figured out how yet to remove BMF residue from urethane paint without damaging the finish?

Ddms

goo gone and windex. i stopped using bmf not too long ago and switched to tin foil for that very reason.

goo gone and windex. i stopped using bmf not too long ago and switched to tin foil for that very reason.

Windex contains ammonia, which dissolves grease, wax and even Future.

So would straight ammonia get rid of BMF stickum without harming the finish? Or would Windex work just as well, and not smell so bloody awful?

Ddms