Tension assembly woes

97 gp gt 97k miles, i was replacing a failed water pump and thermostat and while putting it back together i noticed the tension pulley wouldn't tighten up, it would only tighten up to about 10 lbs of force and then kick back loose.

i'm pretty sure the problem is that the threads on the tension assembly where the tension pulley screws into are stripped. if i take the pulley off completely i can get the screw to bite farther in, leading me to believe that the threads deeper in the assembly are still good.

only problem is is it's a reverse thread screw, which aren't all the common, is it possible to get a screw that's slightly longer than the one i have? if so, what length would work? should i try to use locktight, as i'm only planning on keeping the car for another 6 mos - year? or am i going to have to bite the bullet and buy another assembly?

Just purely talking possibilities, I think you can get away with a LH metric socket head screw of longer length to reach the other threads and a heavy washer...and loctite.

This holds the inner race of the bearing stationary so that's the important feature. But...with damaged threads it may never reach proper torque to hold the bearing in place and anchor the pulley.

So...if it were me I invoke this old saw: I'd rather lay under the car/truck in the garage with all the right tools for many many hours at a time fixing a known problem with all the right repair parts than be stranded on the side of the highway in _______ (insert location) with the cars going by at 75mph likely in dark and rain with a minimum set of tools, trying to decide what to do next.

What I'm getting at is if this temporary fix doesn't work...this is a walk-home problem unless you're a block away. It's going to be a long year....

I agree, probably better to fix it the right way.

Would it be just better to replace the belt tensioner instead of trying to find a longer bolt.

Would it be just better to replace the belt tensioner instead of trying to find a longer bolt.

i definitely agree that it would be better to replace the whole tensioner, but that's $80.00 (at autozone) that i didn't feel like spending, especially after dropping 45 on the water pump, recently dropping 50 on the window regulator, and 100 on a hub... just frustrating, seems like as soon as i fix one problem another one springs up...

was just wondering what the possible inexpensive fixes were, or if it was better to just bite the bullet...

Just purely talking possibilities, I think you can get away with a LH metric socket head screw of longer length to reach the other threads and a heavy washer...and loctite.

This holds the inner race of the bearing stationary so that's the important feature. But...with damaged threads it may never reach proper torque to hold the bearing in place and anchor the pulley.

So...if it were me I invoke this old saw: I'd rather lay under the car/truck in the garage with all the right tools for many many hours at a time fixing a known problem with all the right repair parts than be stranded on the side of the highway in _______ (insert location) with the cars going by at 75mph likely in dark and rain with a minimum set of tools, trying to decide what to do next.

What I'm getting at is if this temporary fix doesn't work...this is a walk-home problem unless you're a block away. It's going to be a long year....


well the existing screw i have tightens down enough to leverage the spring in the assembly down if the pulley isn't on, the problem is when the pulley is on the screw isn't long enough to reach those threads and will only tighten slightly and the pop back a few threads. that's why i mused that a longer screw would do the trick and tighten down with as much torque as the old screw did... but maybe i'm missing something...

The only problem that it might break and leave you stranded, and a tow would add insult to injury. Just my opion. It cost me $245. dollars to get my car towed home after my brake line burst on the way home from work last year in May. I know what you mean about getting one thing fixed and then something else breaks.

just frustrating, seems like as soon as i fix one problem another one springs up...

I will agree with this...you see the 4 vehicles below all in the range of 140k to 200k miles...plus 2 forklifts and 3 tractors to keep going.

The problems can all be taken away...for about $400 a month....which you pay month in and month out. I didn't add your total up exactly, but seems like about 1 month's payment more or less. Then...if things go well, you have a very good probability to "go free" the next month.

I'm not saying never buy a new vehicle...but you can rack up some pretty good savings if you are willing to work on them a bit.

anyone know a good way to get ahold of a refurbed or decent used oem part? i know morad is pretty reliable, but i'm in savannah...

Try a local salvage yard. Also, be sure to get one off a 97-98 only. The tensioner assembly was redesigned for 1999 and up. Also, you can get an aftermarket brand at the typical auto parts stores which are cheaper than the GM OE but just as good.

well i found the part from Morad, can get it to me with shipping for $45, slightly cheaper than the $70.00 advanced auto wants for the part new, the one from morad comes with the elbows too, considering that is it a better idea to get the new one and then buy the elbows from a dealer or take the used one from morad?

You are better off to use a new elbow. The plastic elbow crack very easily when it is old.

i was planning on using a new elbow regardless i was just wondering if 25 bucks was a good enough reason to not buy a new one. used one from morad is 45 with shipping and includes elbows, i can buy a new assembly from autozone for 70 but would have to buy the elbows from the dealer as they're usually not a stock item at most auto parts stores.

just wanted to see what people thought was the better way to go.