wont start, need help!
rapid roy
01-19-2009, 09:55 PM
'96 nissan pickup, 2.4L KA24DE engine...
I replaced my timing chain, tensioner, guides, sprockets. Reassembled and started it up, idled very rough, couldn't move the distributor far enough to get the timing right. But it would keep running and rev up. Oops, realized I didnt line up the oil pump right... fixed that.
Started the engine again and it ran for about 20 seconds and then slowly stalled out, sounded like if you manually choke an engine till it stalls. Now it just cranks and cranks and after about 20 seconds of cranking it will fire up. But then it dies out after 10 more seconds and stalls. When it does run the RPM only get to 400-600 range and pressing the gas pedal will not rev up the motor.
The pulled the plugs, they have fuel on them. Checked spark on all 4 and is good. Check compression on all 4 cyls, get between 135 and 150 on all 4. I don't see any obvious cracks or vacuum lines that aren't hooked up. I assume since the compression is good that the valve timing is good or the compression would be lower.
I am worried my timing chain may have jumped a tooth but it seems more like an airflow problem. But it would keep idling and rev up before I readjusted the oil pump/ dizzy shaft.
Any ideas would be appreciated, im really at a loss. Really don't want to tear the timing cover off again, thats a big job.
Thanks - Roy
I replaced my timing chain, tensioner, guides, sprockets. Reassembled and started it up, idled very rough, couldn't move the distributor far enough to get the timing right. But it would keep running and rev up. Oops, realized I didnt line up the oil pump right... fixed that.
Started the engine again and it ran for about 20 seconds and then slowly stalled out, sounded like if you manually choke an engine till it stalls. Now it just cranks and cranks and after about 20 seconds of cranking it will fire up. But then it dies out after 10 more seconds and stalls. When it does run the RPM only get to 400-600 range and pressing the gas pedal will not rev up the motor.
The pulled the plugs, they have fuel on them. Checked spark on all 4 and is good. Check compression on all 4 cyls, get between 135 and 150 on all 4. I don't see any obvious cracks or vacuum lines that aren't hooked up. I assume since the compression is good that the valve timing is good or the compression would be lower.
I am worried my timing chain may have jumped a tooth but it seems more like an airflow problem. But it would keep idling and rev up before I readjusted the oil pump/ dizzy shaft.
Any ideas would be appreciated, im really at a loss. Really don't want to tear the timing cover off again, thats a big job.
Thanks - Roy
discnik
01-19-2009, 10:27 PM
Is this singleor dual cam ?
rapid roy
01-20-2009, 04:58 PM
its a single cam, 12 valve
rapid roy
01-26-2009, 09:40 PM
update: couldn't even use the timing light on it because it wouldn't run for long enough. I am about 99% positive the chain is timed right.
Pulled the oil pump out again and moved a couple teeth on the gear (dizzy shaft). Got the truck where it will run and rev up. Runs a little rough. Checked with the timng light; #1 fires 180 degrees off. The #4 fires at the correct timing the #1 should be at.
What does that mean?
Pulled the oil pump out again and moved a couple teeth on the gear (dizzy shaft). Got the truck where it will run and rev up. Runs a little rough. Checked with the timng light; #1 fires 180 degrees off. The #4 fires at the correct timing the #1 should be at.
What does that mean?
discnik
01-26-2009, 11:20 PM
Sounds like you are a 180 out. Was the engine brought up to # 1 TDC prior to disassymbly ? I mean the distributor rotor was pointing at the # 1 tower on the cap and the timing mark on the dampner was on 0 ?
Just trying to cover bases here .
Just trying to cover bases here .
rapid roy
01-28-2009, 09:47 PM
I did start at #1 TDC before I disassembled.
I know the #1 cylinder's valves were closed and the timing chain marks lined up before I assembled again. The engine is running so I assume it was put back together right. Why would ignition timing be 180 degrees off?
If i flip the oil pump shaft 180 the wouldn't it be firing on the exhaust stroke and not run?
And could it do damage to drive it like it is? Wife has been taking me to work.
I hate to take the truck to a repair shop. Don't want to spend the money.
Another thing... the CEL was on before I tore it apart for rear O2 sensor, wouldn't think that would effect it at all.
I know the #1 cylinder's valves were closed and the timing chain marks lined up before I assembled again. The engine is running so I assume it was put back together right. Why would ignition timing be 180 degrees off?
If i flip the oil pump shaft 180 the wouldn't it be firing on the exhaust stroke and not run?
And could it do damage to drive it like it is? Wife has been taking me to work.
I hate to take the truck to a repair shop. Don't want to spend the money.
Another thing... the CEL was on before I tore it apart for rear O2 sensor, wouldn't think that would effect it at all.
discnik
01-29-2009, 01:00 AM
You said that you had a "O2 sensor" code for the rear ?
Have you tried taking the exhaust pipe off of the manifold and tried running it ?
Just curious if your catalytic converter is plugged .
Have you tried taking the exhaust pipe off of the manifold and tried running it ?
Just curious if your catalytic converter is plugged .
rapid roy
02-04-2009, 10:45 PM
I found the vacuum line to the black box on the top left of the timing cover wasn't hooked up. I had checked vacuum lines but that one was hidden. It fixed my problem, truck runs great now. Timing marks are where they should be.
I don't really understand how the vacuum could effect the ignition timing. If somebody could explain that would be great!
Thanks for all your help - Roy
I don't really understand how the vacuum could effect the ignition timing. If somebody could explain that would be great!
Thanks for all your help - Roy
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