Push Button 4x4 Just Blinks
monteheeren
01-19-2009, 10:25 PM
Here we go again. 2002 Silverado 3/4 ton 4x4 8100 engine. Had same problem last year, exactly 1 year ago. See my post http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=879194&highlight=push+button. Spent about $1000.00 last year to have this fixed. They installed a new T-Case actuator. The 4x4 has worked perfectly up until this winter when I really need it. The only difference now is that sometimes it WILL go into 4x4. I can hit the 4x4 buttons and all I get is blinking lights most of the time. Sometimes (After a lot of cussing) the 4x4 goes in and the light stays solid. What do you think the problem is now. Is the oil to thick in the T-Case, and won't go in 4x4 when its really cold. Is the actuator too new and just needs broke in? Is this just the nature of the beast? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
discnik
01-19-2009, 10:43 PM
Once you do get it into 4WD does it drive ok, or does it slip, shimmy, not up-shift, etc. ?
monteheeren
01-19-2009, 10:50 PM
No. The truck only has 32K on it. Once it goes into 4x4, everything works fine.
discnik
01-20-2009, 02:14 AM
The reason I asked, I saw a TSB concerning the T-case clutch pack with the afore mentioned symptoms. Unfortunately since these symptoms are not present this would lead me to believe that it is the actuator again. Unless there is a control module in the system also. I do not have a wiring diagram on your vehicle to check this though. Sorry.
MT-2500
01-20-2009, 09:14 AM
Hello.
MONTEHEEREN
Sounds like problems again!!!
It needs to be hooked up to a transfer case/transmission capable scanner.
There is shift test built in a good scanner to test things out.
You need to get codes and do the shift test to find the problem.
Have it scanned and get codes and then clear codes and see what comes back.
Post back all codes.
MONTEHEEREN
Sounds like problems again!!!
It needs to be hooked up to a transfer case/transmission capable scanner.
There is shift test built in a good scanner to test things out.
You need to get codes and do the shift test to find the problem.
Have it scanned and get codes and then clear codes and see what comes back.
Post back all codes.
monteheeren
01-20-2009, 02:34 PM
I'll call the shop and have them re-scan it again and re-post.
Thank you for you reply.
Thank you for you reply.
MT-2500
01-20-2009, 02:49 PM
OK
Codes should point to problem.
And if there scanner will run the shift test have the check shifting out.
Good luck
Codes should point to problem.
And if there scanner will run the shift test have the check shifting out.
Good luck
j cAT
01-20-2009, 06:54 PM
No. The truck only has 32K on it. Once it goes into 4x4, everything works fine.
I remember this one ,,,stuck in garage and paid a crazy amount of money to repair...I HOPE YOU DON'T GO BACK TO THOSE THIEVES AGAIN...
I remember this one ,,,stuck in garage and paid a crazy amount of money to repair...I HOPE YOU DON'T GO BACK TO THOSE THIEVES AGAIN...
grego10r
01-22-2009, 06:04 PM
my went bad somemany times i dont know what to say this cars got the worst 4x4 systems ever sory to say that but i think gm suck . i like my silverado but 4x4 in it suck all theway look at all this post in here evryone got same problem old cars and new wtf is wrong whit gm hope u get it fix but how long will last not long im sick of this 4x4 whatever i needit to use it gose bad ty
j cAT
01-22-2009, 06:09 PM
my went bad somemany times i dont know what to say this cars got the worst 4x4 systems ever sory to say that but i think gm suck . i like my silverado but 4x4 in it suck all theway look at all this post in here evryone got same problem old cars and new wtf is wrong whit gm hope u get it fix but how long will last not long im sick of this 4x4 whatever i needit to use it gose bad ty
look we know all that GM suckz stuff...What can you offer for advice since it appears you have alot of experience getting the shaft from GM...with this 4x4 problem...
look we know all that GM suckz stuff...What can you offer for advice since it appears you have alot of experience getting the shaft from GM...with this 4x4 problem...
monteheeren
01-28-2009, 10:05 PM
Took truck back in to get it scanned. They said it was the transfer case actuator again. It was covered under warranty this time. Got in the truck to take it home, and low and behold, it would not go into 4x4 again! It just blinks. They are taking it back in tomorrow to try it a 3rd time! Seems to have more of a problem when it is cold outside. Wish it had the old lever on the floor that worked and was fool proof! Any chance of someone out there know if there is such a kit? I'll repost when I find out more.
MT-2500
01-29-2009, 10:16 AM
No such kit.
If a 246 you have the best setup on a 4W.
It would take a lot of time and money and changing to change it over.
As in post no 8.
It sounds like your repair shop does not know what they are doing or/and do not have a good scanner to test it.
What was the code no they got.
Post back the codes no.
Your transfer case is computer controled.
A good transfrer case scanner and someone that knows how to use it can get to the problem right away.
Find a good repair shop.
Check around Ask around
Word of mouth.
Family friends coworkers neighbors business people and delivery people.
Mailmen and parcel delivery people get around and notice a lot of stuff.
Even a good parts house knows what shops are good and not good.
Chamber of commerce and better business bureau and city hall.
If you find a good referral to a repair shop go look them over and talk to them.
Look for a clean looking busy place with nice people running it.
Ask a few questions and ask about their qualifications and training.
Not all places have trained tech/mechanics.
If they do not find a place that does.
Even all dealers do not have all trained techs/mechanics.
If a 246 you have the best setup on a 4W.
It would take a lot of time and money and changing to change it over.
As in post no 8.
It sounds like your repair shop does not know what they are doing or/and do not have a good scanner to test it.
What was the code no they got.
Post back the codes no.
Your transfer case is computer controled.
A good transfrer case scanner and someone that knows how to use it can get to the problem right away.
Find a good repair shop.
Check around Ask around
Word of mouth.
Family friends coworkers neighbors business people and delivery people.
Mailmen and parcel delivery people get around and notice a lot of stuff.
Even a good parts house knows what shops are good and not good.
Chamber of commerce and better business bureau and city hall.
If you find a good referral to a repair shop go look them over and talk to them.
Look for a clean looking busy place with nice people running it.
Ask a few questions and ask about their qualifications and training.
Not all places have trained tech/mechanics.
If they do not find a place that does.
Even all dealers do not have all trained techs/mechanics.
j cAT
01-29-2009, 10:29 AM
mt 2500....... I bet this repair shop just cleaned the encoder motor contacts and never changed the motor with new....
MT-2500
01-29-2009, 10:58 AM
mt 2500....... I bet this repair shop just cleaned the encoder motor contacts and never changed the motor with new....
You hit the nail on the head in post no 8
They are missing the boat someplace.
You hit the nail on the head in post no 8
They are missing the boat someplace.
mudrunner80
02-01-2009, 10:53 AM
I'm not sure of the newer models but on my 88 the actuator went bad and replaced it with just a simple cable under my dash. Yes it pulls hard but much like my 80, when its locked in its locked in. None of this guess and hope thing. Come to think of it, I still gotta figure out how to "lock" in the rf axle tube assembly.
monteheeren
02-01-2009, 09:40 PM
Just got the truck back. This time they said it was the switch on the dash.
$275.00 later, my 4x4 works. I'll wait until it gets really cold out again and see it will work twice. LOL. Thank you for all that responed to this post. I've recommended this forum to all my friends. Its priceless!
$275.00 later, my 4x4 works. I'll wait until it gets really cold out again and see it will work twice. LOL. Thank you for all that responed to this post. I've recommended this forum to all my friends. Its priceless!
jyount
02-02-2009, 01:18 AM
Would've responded sooner, but haven't been on in over a year. When I worked at the Chevy dealer we replaced the switches in all the trucks, tahoes, trailblazers, etc, they all use the same system. The computer reads certain resistance values for each of the 3 or 4 buttons, whichever it has. They don't get used through the year so the connections get bad within the switch and the Transfer case control module basically is saying...what the heck resistance value is that. The previous poster is right, the system sucks, it is too persnickitey. The hard parts aren't bad, but the electronics fail often. Believe it or not the Transfer case actuators don't go bad often. The general has a history of having 4wd actuation systems that don't work when you need em the most...The 80s and early 90s trucks and s10 had a good ol fashion lever for the transfer case, didn't matter though because they had a piece of junk vacuum actuator for the front hubs. That is the system that the previous poster was talking about installing a cable under the dash for....
jyount
02-02-2009, 01:23 AM
Really the best option to keep from having repeat failures is to exercise the switch ie use the buttons often, don't give the internal contacts time to corrode.
We don't use my wifes tblazer switches much and without fail every year you have to cross your eyes and hold your tongue just right to get the stinkin 4wd engaged and disengaged. We rarely need 4wd in it until the snow and ice, it hardly ever gets offroad anywhere at all like my trucks do. When it does it has a trac loc, so it goes pretty good. Come to think of it I wonder if it has the same rear end as my truck, cause its open...:)
You can spin donuts on dry pavement with her rig...honest.
We don't use my wifes tblazer switches much and without fail every year you have to cross your eyes and hold your tongue just right to get the stinkin 4wd engaged and disengaged. We rarely need 4wd in it until the snow and ice, it hardly ever gets offroad anywhere at all like my trucks do. When it does it has a trac loc, so it goes pretty good. Come to think of it I wonder if it has the same rear end as my truck, cause its open...:)
You can spin donuts on dry pavement with her rig...honest.
j cAT
02-02-2009, 12:24 PM
Really the best option to keep from having repeat failures is to exercise the switch ie use the buttons often, don't give the internal contacts time to corrode.
We don't use my wifes tblazer switches much and without fail every year you have to cross your eyes and hold your tongue just right to get the stinkin 4wd engaged and disengaged. We rarely need 4wd in it until the snow and ice, it hardly ever gets offroad anywhere at all like my trucks do. When it does it has a trac loc, so it goes pretty good. Come to think of it I wonder if it has the same rear end as my truck, cause its open...:)
You can spin donuts on dry pavement with her rig...honest.
these switches are poorly soldered...when you remove your switch get a magnifier and you will see that they did not use suffecient heat for the solder to flow around the switch pins....mexico ,,,resoldering is all thats needed....that rasies the question will the new switch also be bad ...if its not checked for this poor solder job I won't trust it...
We don't use my wifes tblazer switches much and without fail every year you have to cross your eyes and hold your tongue just right to get the stinkin 4wd engaged and disengaged. We rarely need 4wd in it until the snow and ice, it hardly ever gets offroad anywhere at all like my trucks do. When it does it has a trac loc, so it goes pretty good. Come to think of it I wonder if it has the same rear end as my truck, cause its open...:)
You can spin donuts on dry pavement with her rig...honest.
these switches are poorly soldered...when you remove your switch get a magnifier and you will see that they did not use suffecient heat for the solder to flow around the switch pins....mexico ,,,resoldering is all thats needed....that rasies the question will the new switch also be bad ...if its not checked for this poor solder job I won't trust it...
MT-2500
02-02-2009, 01:08 PM
Just got the truck back. This time they said it was the switch on the dash.
$275.00 later, my 4x4 works. I'll wait until it gets really cold out again and see it will work twice. LOL. Thank you for all that responed to this post. I've recommended this forum to all my friends. Its priceless!
Ouch
275$ for a 65$ switch that they should have replaced to start with.
MONTEHEEREN you are getting robbed.
But good luck with it.
$275.00 later, my 4x4 works. I'll wait until it gets really cold out again and see it will work twice. LOL. Thank you for all that responed to this post. I've recommended this forum to all my friends. Its priceless!
Ouch
275$ for a 65$ switch that they should have replaced to start with.
MONTEHEEREN you are getting robbed.
But good luck with it.
monteheeren
02-15-2009, 10:56 PM
Well, here we go again, for the 3rd time. After getting the 4x4 fixed twice, I tried the 4x4 again this morning (was pretty cold out) and the truck would not go into 4x4 AGAIN. Had the actuator replace in the transfer case twice, and had a new switch put in the dash. Had to get the truck out of the garage again, and could not because the darn truck would not go into 4x4. Sooo, just for grins, while the lights were flashing on the 4x4 switch and in park, I crawled under the truck and lightly tapped the front axle actuator with a hammer. And low and behold, I had 4x4! Must have a sticky actuator. Will replace tomorrow, and I'll bet I won't have another problem. Thought I'd mention this to any others that are having similar problems. This one has been a real pain in the rear!
j cAT
02-16-2009, 10:53 AM
Well, here we go again, for the 3rd time. After getting the 4x4 fixed twice, I tried the 4x4 again this morning (was pretty cold out) and the truck would not go into 4x4 AGAIN. Had the actuator replace in the transfer case twice, and had a new switch put in the dash. Had to get the truck out of the garage again, and could not because the darn truck would not go into 4x4. Sooo, just for grins, while the lights were flashing on the 4x4 switch and in park, I crawled under the truck and lightly tapped the front axle actuator with a hammer. And low and behold, I had 4x4! Must have a sticky actuator. Will replace tomorrow, and I'll bet I won't have another problem. Thought I'd mention this to any others that are having similar problems. This one has been a real pain in the rear!
what fluids are you using in the front diff and also the transfercase..?
what fluids are you using in the front diff and also the transfercase..?
monteheeren
02-16-2009, 11:50 AM
Don't know what kind of fluids are in either TC or front axle. I assumed the shop I took the truck to checked the fluids. I'll look at the owners manual and see what fluid is recommended. Do you think someone may have put the wrong type of fluid in?
j cAT
02-16-2009, 12:00 PM
Don't know what kind of fluids are in either TC or front axle. I assumed the shop I took the truck to checked the fluids. I'll look at the owners manual and see what fluid is recommended. Do you think someone may have put the wrong type of fluid in?
with all the problems you have had somethings wrong it don't make any sense...
check the manual for what fluids you should use ...then ask them what they put in ....don't tell them what should be put in...
if they put the wrong oil in this could expain this repeat failure...
my son had a acura...the clutch needed replacing...the vehicle calls for 10-30wt oil...the shop put in 80-90wt...the manual 5sp did not shift as before very hard...drained out some and confermed wrong oil...called up and asked what he put in ...he said they all use 80-90wt...I called dealer just to conferm the oem manual and they said no 30wt in all manual transmissions....this shop had been doing this for years !
the transfer case uses tracII fluid ..this is blue..only supplied by GM.....the front diff should use 80-90wt....
with all the problems you have had somethings wrong it don't make any sense...
check the manual for what fluids you should use ...then ask them what they put in ....don't tell them what should be put in...
if they put the wrong oil in this could expain this repeat failure...
my son had a acura...the clutch needed replacing...the vehicle calls for 10-30wt oil...the shop put in 80-90wt...the manual 5sp did not shift as before very hard...drained out some and confermed wrong oil...called up and asked what he put in ...he said they all use 80-90wt...I called dealer just to conferm the oem manual and they said no 30wt in all manual transmissions....this shop had been doing this for years !
the transfer case uses tracII fluid ..this is blue..only supplied by GM.....the front diff should use 80-90wt....
was123
03-12-2009, 12:05 PM
ok i have a 07 classic 2500 HD and plow snow in the winter. i have this issue at times and have found when it dont shift and just blinks i get on level ground and set plow down to get weight off of the front of the truck and it goes in just fine...
are you weighting the rear axles maybe in the winter and acting as a reverse affect of what happens to me?
also just so its known when i put my plow on for the winter i add 4 turns to my torsion bars.
are you weighting the rear axles maybe in the winter and acting as a reverse affect of what happens to me?
also just so its known when i put my plow on for the winter i add 4 turns to my torsion bars.
monteheeren
03-12-2009, 12:31 PM
was123,
No, I do not have weight on the rear axles. I don't run a plow on the truck.
Thanks for the reply.
No, I do not have weight on the rear axles. I don't run a plow on the truck.
Thanks for the reply.
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