2002 Blazer window leak and wind noise

The drivers door on my 2002 Blazer was leaking water at the top over the window switches so I replaced the very top large seal that spans both driver side doors and goes down the windshield edge. Now I have a horrendous wind noise there which is corrected by pulling in the top of the door from the inside or taping over the new seal from the outside. It is interesting that a new seal started this when the old one was partially falling off and deteriorating.

1) I noticed that there is no guide track/rail for this top seal as you round the corner and start down the windshield edge. Is there a trick/technique to setting this seal here such as pulling it tight as you round the corner? This appears to be the problem area.

2) I see that my pins and bushings are breaking down so I will replace those. Is that likely to help?

3) I note like a previous poster that my door bulges out at the top so I will try to torque it back in (yikes!). I may have to start drinking again first.

4) Unlike the passengers side, the drivers door sits lower than the back door (sighting down the roofline) but is square in the opening. The door has to "climb" the strikeplate when closing) Is that all pins/bushings?

5) I also notice that when the door is closed and latched it is looser than the others (I can push it in and out against the door frame catch pins a fraction of an inch). Is there a way to tighten up the door when closed (new catch plate or door latch or an adjustment)?

6) Lastly, is it possible that the inner seal that completely surrounds the door opening also needs to be replaced? Perhaps the new outer seal is standing the door off of the old inner seal?

Thanks,

George

Replace all worn door hinge pins and bushings, that'll probably fix all of your problems. Most auto parts stores have the repair kits, (made by Dorman in the HELP! line). There's a thread, with pictures, in the Blazer "How-to" section.

Old Master is right, replace the door pins and bushings. And also lubricate them and all other hinges such as the hood and hatchback with a light oil every time you do an oil change. My 1950 GMC truck manual mentions that service stations often overlook lubricating body parts, but they are part of the scheduled maintance.

If you do it yourself have some help ready, those doors are heavy. Link to DIY is here: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=363334

As far as adjusting the gap when closed, look at the the striker post. It should have a star type torques reciever in it that will allow some adjustment but replace the worn parts first.

Based on the advise here I tried to tackle the pins and bushings first. I could not get the hinge spring out with the compression tool. Can someone give me some guidance here?

I was trying to remove the spring with the wire harness and weather boot still in place so that limits the angles that I have available for the compression tool. Is that the issue? Also, I could not get the tool over either of the spring ends, only a few spring turns in on both sides so the spring does not get compressed enough to come off. Others have referenced using a pry bar or screwdriver for at least the removal part. Where do you apply the leverage?

For whatever reason, I cannot see the pictures embedded in the sticky posts on this subject for guidance on the spring removal portion.

The tools all seem to be the same but here is the exact one that I bought in case my version is hosed:

http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4977

Thanks,

George

That's the correct tool. No need to move the harness or weather boot. You have to insert the spring compressor in the second winding in from each end of the spring, then compress the spring all the way, then finesse the spring out. Once you get the hang of it, it's easy.

Sounds like I was on the right track. Maybe the spring can be in just the right rotation so that the tool cannot get far enough into the spring (most of the time the tool kept popping off). I'll check it out and try again. Does the tool need to be finessed in or pounded in? Anyone else know where I might be going wrong? This spring has humbled an otherwise mechanically inclined DIYer.

Thanks,

George

Adjust the jaws and just kinda wiggle-slide it in.

An interesting update. As I said in the original post, I replaced the top drip channel at the top of the driver door and a severe wind noise was added to the water leaking. I noticed in the repair section of my new Alldatadiy subscription (which is great) that it says to apply that new drip seal in 80 degree + conditions which I definitely did not do. We had near record breaking cold weather (Florida) that day. Well yesterday I noticed that the wind noise was spontaneously gone after a week of daily whistling. I looked up at the outdoor temp display and it was - you guessed it, 80 degrees outside. I just hope that I am still in good shape after I shift the door position with the hinges and pins which I will tackle as soon as I master the spring removal. I am now equiped with a replacement spring so that I can get the hang of the tool out in the open.

George

Still struggling with the spring, bought a spare one to experiment with. Looks like the spring can be in just the right rotation so that you cannot get the tool inserted far enough in to get a good "grip" which may be my problem. Is this the correct insertion point/orientation?:

http://www.geocities.com/ggidzinski/Blazerspring.html


Thanks,

George

That's the correct positioning of the tool, but you need to compress the spring until the windings of the spring are touching each other. Use caution as to what direction you point it, if it slips out, hopefully all it will do is scare the daylights out of you and not damage anything.

Thanks, I'll give it a try this weekend and report back. It looks like my problem is that about 20% of the possible spring positions (rotation) make the proper insertion of the tool impossible, at least with the boot and wiring harness in place. Hopefully it can be rotated in place before insertion of the tool and removal. If not, the harness and boot will have to come out first.

To your point I did compress the trial spring all the way and it looks like a weapon. I now see the reason for all of the "towel" suggestions. You definitely need to be careful where you point that thing.

George

Replaced the pins/bushings and that did the trick. Fixed the wind noise and leaking.

Anyone know how the the door strike plate for the latch is backed up behind the torx bolts in the center post? Is it a welded nut/threaded frame or is there a loose bolt/plate that will fall into the center post when the torx bolts are removed?

Thanks,

George

Not sure George, I've never taken the striker all the way out to find out. Maybe someone will chime in that knows for sure.

It makes no logical sense for the bolt/plate to not be attached to the pillar in some manner. The latch post is attached to the pillar AFTER the body is build so there would be no access behind it in theory.

That makes sense to me but as I lossen the torx bolts it feels very loose back there.

George

If its anything like the older ones its just loose. When I bought the 92 for my girlfriend one of the doors would not open. I was able to get a pair of needle nose vice grips between the door and jamb, so I removed the striker bolt instead of damaging the door panel. I thought ahead and dropped a magnet behind, loosened up the striker bolt, and the nut/plate came off up with the magnet. They make then like this so you can adjust them, and how the door fits.

So you can loosen both bolts to move the plate and still get a bite to tighten it back up? How do you replace the striker plate completely if you need to, what holds the backing plate in alignment in preparation for the new striker?

George

Years ago, the nut was in a cage-like bracket so it could be moved around slightly for adjustment and not fall into the B pillar if the striker was totally removed. They may still be that way.

it is a square plate that is separate you would have to remove center post trim to hopefully get your hand in enough to hold it, if you just want to adjust striker all you do is loosen the torx bolts just enough so it can be adjusted using a hard ruber mallet, to get straighter use a screwdriver . put down window ,DO NOT shut door ,lift up on the handle and slowly bring door to closing position . you see which direction you need to adjust striker.when you see that it looks correct , bring door in close watching how alignment looks,now still keeping handle up slowly close all the way and see how adjustment is .door should go in without binding KEEP the handle up.if feels good close door and hopefully alls good its a good idea to have door panel off just incase you have to get inside door good luck k