i have a question

i still have my problem with my car were i canot get over 4 thousand rpms i havent put the dtec and the wideband on yet do you all think it will help it ? i have a 50 trim and a turbonetics evoulution wastegate and a duel stage turboxs boost controller when i got the car it did this like it was overboosting aroud 4 thousand or less rpms it would build quikly to 15 psi and then the car would shake and sputter i have ngk plugs that were gapped at 35 thousands and under my hood it says 50 thousanths so i put autolike plugs in the stock ones and the car runs better as a hole but still has the problem do youall think it is just not getting enogh fuel or any other ideas the other week me and my buddies capped of the top of the wasegate and eliminated the boost controller to run of the wastegate spring pressure i hope the wideband and dtec will take care of this problem

i still have my problem with my car were i canot get over 4 thousand rpms i havent put the dtec and the wideband on yet do you all think it will help it ? i have a 50 trim and a turbonetics evoulution wastegate and a duel stage turboxs boost controller when i got the car it did this like it was overboosting aroud 4 thousand or less rpms it would build quikly to 15 psi and then the car would shake and sputter i have ngk plugs that were gapped at 35 thousands and under my hood it says 50 thousanths so i put autolike plugs in the stock ones and the car runs better as a hole but still has the problem do youall think it is just not getting enogh fuel or any other ideas the other week me and my buddies capped of the top of the wasegate and eliminated the boost controller to run of the wastegate spring pressure i hope the wideband and dtec will take care of this problem

I would first put the wideband in to see what what your fuel is doing when it hits this wall at 4k rpms. I would hold off on the dtec for now. What sized injectors are you running? Running higher plug gaps is not going to help. You need to be running somewhere between 30-40 depending on what your setup is. I would throw that autolight crap awap and put the ngks back in. Remove the cap from the top of the wastegate and remove the boost controller. Run a vac. line from the bottom of the wastegate to the nipple on the turbo. That will give you the spring pressure.

we pulled out the ecu and it a stage two ecu we got the wideband in and we accelerate the afr goes into the 20s and when its idleing its stays around 14 then as accelerating it gets higher untill it goes into the 20's

You are running waaaaaay to lean.

You cant just bolt on a big turbocharger without any supporting mods and expect the car to run right.

There is no way that you are running a/f's in the 20's with 15psi on stage 2. What color are the injector tops? Something might be wrong with your wideband? Did you calibrate it? If you were running 20+ a/f's at wot your engine would be no more.

sorry my info was a little misleading what i meant was the car idles around 14.8 as i slowly accelerate it goes into in to the high 15s then the 16s then the 18s them as the car is missing and jerking it reads in the 20s when it reads after 18 it is missing all together right now we have the boost controller bypassed and it is running of the wastegate spring pressure its like max 7 psi before we did that when i first got the car the boost controller was on then it would build with good pull untill 12 to 15 psi then the car would jerk terrible so we bypassed it so now when it cuts out it int so bad

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Have you checked your plugs and wires? What is the color of the injector tops you are using? What about resetting the computer?

the tops of the injector clips are red.we did try resetting the ecu .should we go head and put in the d-tec

No....what is the color of the injector itself? Is it solid black, have a purple band on it...etc. Putting in the dtec won't help at all. The stock s2 ecu should be able to handle 12 psi without too much of an issue.

we got the fuel rail off and the numbers on them match stage two they have blue rings we got a fuel pressure tester well check that tommorow what else should we check from here should we check the map sensor

I'm not talking about the oring that seals the injector to the fuel rail...I'm talking about the injector itself. If it is stage 2 then the injector will be solid black.

yea they are solid black sorry i was told the dtec reduces the fuel and cant add it should i get bigger injectors

The dtec can not add fuel, correct. Like I said, s2 with 10-12psi on a big turbo is just fine fuel wise...you should actually be pulling fuel. Something is definitely up.

man i appreciate all the help. it but i never told u one of the strangest thing about my car when you go to start it it takes a few trys before it starts. my freind wes who was helping me with the d-tec and wideband thought of doing a fuel pressure test. we did and the pressure was weak at a idle it took a while for it to build so we he had a few people from Louisville come down to race some of the the other cars ,they all said my fuel pump was about to go out so i orderd a walboro to put on this weekend could a weak fuel pump cause it to run lean

Yes a weak fuel pump could cause a lean condition. I'm assuming you ordered a walbaro 255?

that would be the one i also have three codes po522 witch my oil light comes on when the car finally starts ill shut it off and start it again then the light will turn off and po627 and po633 wicth i dont know about the oil light but i hope the fuel pump takes car of most of my problems thanks again

that would be the one i also have three codes po522 witch my oil light comes on when the car finally starts ill shut it off and start it again then the light will turn off and po627 and po633 wicth i dont know about the oil light but i hope the fuel pump takes car of most of my problems thanks again

How many miles are on the car? The p0522 is definitely oil pump related. If the light comes on then comes off and continues to do that then it is most likely just the sensor itself. But you don't want to put that behind you and think it's not an issue. If I remember correctly a new sensor from the dealer will run you about 60 bucks and the install isn't too in depth.

Now, your p0627 is definitely related to the fuel pump. It is the fuel pump relay circuit code. That tells me a couple possibilities:
A) There is a bad ground somewhere
B) There are bad connections somewhere
C) Your fuel pump might be going bad
D) The fuel pump relay may need changed or cleaned out(the connectors)


I would first pull the fuel pump relay(under the hood) and clean it off, clean all the little connectors(on the car side) to make sure it's getting a good contact. Then locate the fuel pump on the passenger rear side of the car and make sure all the little wires are secure and haven't been messed with.


The p0633 is not really a code. It just means you have a staged computer. If you have no other codes you won't get a light just because of this code, so don't worry about it.

i put the fuel pump in . The old one was also a walbro .the canister that is around the fuel pump was not on all the way. the car starts as soon as you turn the key i dont want to drive it though becouse my air fuel ratio is staying around 14 to 15 as i accelerated. the car did however pull pretty well

Did you make a full throttle pass? Unless the car is at full throttle the a/f isn't really going to change that much. During closed loop it will try to maintain around a 14.7 a/f. I would try to make a quick pull and see what happens. If the a/fs to change when you mash the gas then immediately lift up and we can troubleshoot it from there.

ur right i was not in the throttle realy at all i was shifting around 4800 i took it to around 6200 and it pulls really great only around 10psi. Im going to hook the boost controller up tomorow and wait for the dtec for now, the air fuel stays around 14 then as im in boost it goes down around 11.5s it runs great where do you think i should set the boost around when i get the boost controller hooked up? im going to try and get cams and cam gears by summer the fuel pump was my problem man i appreciate all the help you were right from the beginng its great being able to ask questions when i knew nothing about the car when i bought it im going to put a fuel return and the dtec and ill let you know how that goes if i dont have another question for you thanks again

So you are s2 with a walbaro 255? Do you have an exhaust and what not? If you're a'fs are 11.5 with only 10lbs then something is still up. You should be rich out the ass...meaning below the 10 margin. I would still check for boost leaks. With the s2 injectors, you are looking around 14-16psi without water injection or a returnline. Put in a return line and some water injection and I would do 18-20.