96 caprice 4 door window problems

I ahve 2 windows that the motor will lower and raise but the glass does not track. I can close only by guiding by hand and working the switch. A machanic says a little gismo is broken and you have to replace the entire guts.
I'm going to tear into it to find and rebuild, does anyone have a heads-up on what I'm looking at?

I am moving this to the Caprice forum, this is not a classic.

I ahve 2 windows that the motor will lower and raise but the glass does not track. I can close only by guiding by hand and working the switch. A machanic says a little gismo is broken and you have to replace the entire guts.
I'm going to tear into it to find and rebuild, does anyone have a heads-up on what I'm looking at?

you will most likely find a plastic part cracked..this is usually from vandalism/breakin or operating the windows when frozen..

It may be possible to glue these broken pieces or best go to the scrap yard....

There is usually no need to replace "the entire guts" as you have been advised. The lower channel guides are plastic, and break under stress. There is a factory upgrade roller which replaces the "hot dog" shaped slider guide and does not break.

Window Guide Roller - GM Part No. 9666748

The lower regulator arms will have to be exposed, and the old sliders removed. The replacement is relatively straightforward once the mechanism is exposed.

I don't have the PN but many parts stores stock the rollers in the HELP brand.

Also seems to only be the rear one on each window that breaks.

I assume the GM part can be obtained from a Chev. dealer?

I assume the GM part can be obtained from a Chev. dealer?
Or a Buick dealer in some cases as the Roadmaster shares the same issue and parts. Not all Chevy or Buick dealers may stock these as demand has decreased over the years, but they should still be able to get them fro a central warehouse or another dealer in the area.
Here is a link to a thread in the Roadmaster forum that details the issue with some helpful info:http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=562839

I assume the GM part can be obtained from a Chev. dealer?

I would remove the door panel and take a picture of the broken gizmo then we can guide you better on this repair...

There is usually no need to replace "the entire guts" as you have been advised. The lower channel guides are plastic, and break under stress. There is a factory upgrade roller which replaces the "hot dog" shaped slider guide and does not break.

Window Guide Roller - GM Part No. 9666748

The lower regulator arms will have to be exposed, and the old sliders removed. The replacement is relatively straightforward once the mechanism is exposed.
That is the case in most situations, where a customer is "advised" to replace the entire regulator which can run well over $300 plus labor. A good money maker for the shop. The part number listed is for a revised design with a more rounded end to slide better in the tracks. I might also suggest you buy some clips that hold on the inner door panel as many of the old clips tend to break while removing the door panel to gain access to the regulator/door glass. The part number for these clips is 15600382 the last time I checked.
Also this is a known problem with these B body cars the Caprice, Roadmaster, and Impala SS. The OEM rollers were of poor design causing them to fail after a few years.

I would remove the door panel and take a picture of the broken gizmo then we can guide you better on this repair...

Go to this part store each kit is 28.oo.. http://www.impalasuperstore.com/naisso/superstore40/shopdisplaycategories.asp

I would remove the door panel and take a picture of the broken gizmo then we can guide you better on this repair...
I have attached two types of photos; 1 of how I repaired the panel clips which were broken when removing and the plastic insert that I made out of the original found at the bottom of the door. The GM / Help part was not the correct part for this model. Thanks for the help and The front passenger door is back together and working fine. I still have the drivers side rear door window to fix when I have time.
Pictures will have to came later as I can't figure out how to resize and upload.

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Pictures will have to came later as I can't figure out how to resize and upload.
Here's link to a free program I downloaded to my computer and use with excellent results to re-size my pictures for sites like this: http://bluefive.pair.com/pixresizer.htm
Once you have re-sized the pic you can use one of the free photo hosting sites to upload and post the pics here. Good luck.

did the link help you understand this issue ??? of these window plastic supports. the rubber seal/guide must be dirty-sand and this is causing the windows to drag,,,,see if with the door panels removed you can wash these guides and when dry spray with silicone lube..

the rubber may also be hard and does not allow smooth window operation..

Here's link to a free program I downloaded to my computer and use with excellent results to re-size my pictures for sites like this: http://bluefive.pair.com/pixresizer.htm
Once you have re-sized the pic you can use one of the free photo hosting sites to upload and post the pics here. Good luck.


Thanks it works just fine.

The help has been great. I have quite a few vehicles on this place and do need help in keeping them up.
Thanks again

Pix

Pix 2

The HELP brand roller is round, the stock GM piece is oval. The HELP round one works perfectly, I have used them in 2 cars within the last year.

Help PN 74444

i just replace both rear window slide on a 92 caprice. the original slide are now superceded by new round rollers. but here is the catch, the dealer says if you regulator does not snap into the new slide then you have to by a new regulator. well mine did not fit but i use the original to get the actaul hole size and made the new to spec with a drill. they work like brand new windows now. just thought i would through that in there. later

The round rollers are much of an improvement over the old oval shaped ones. They slide easier which causes less issues in the long run. I believe the dealer is trying to make some extra money by telling you that you need a new regulator as these cost several hundred dollars. I've heard others in the same situation get fed the same line by their dealer as well. In my post earlier in this thread (#7) I linked to another thread that I had started a few years back on this subject. In that thread I referenced a site that has a walk through on replacing the rollers on these B Body vehicles from start to finish. Here is a quote from that site and I have highlighted the part that may help those in the future should they experience the same issue simmerje has:
The Job:

I have never seen the front roller break, only the back one. the front would be the same but would be easier just to take the whole window out. This is where a stubby flat head screwdriver with a square shaft or one like the Snap-On peice that has the area at the base on the handle that you can put a wrench onto helps out (put a cable tie or string on the box end of the wrench so you have something to grab on to if/when you drop it in the door). Use the pliers and pry the track open along the bottom within an inch or so from the end, enough to get the broken roller out. Be careful, the openings in the door can cut you. Getting the new roller in will be a little snug. I used the phillips screwdriver stuck into the hole of the new roller and used the door for leverage to snap it in. You don't need to squeeze the track back because with the window working, it wont go back that far but you can if you wish. Line up the roller with the regulator and with a 2" c-clamp, squeeze the roller on the regulator ball. Your done! It's nice to buy the 5 new clips each door uses to replace the ones that'll likely need to be once it's removed. It'll help cut down on any squeaks later on. Make sure all the clips are in place, put the panel back on and your in business.
I remember I had to work it a bit to get the new rollers to fit but they do. I also put a little grease in the tracks to aid in rollers sliding in the track. After many years of service , the old grease tends to need a little boost.