timing belt & pump change: plugs out?

the overwhelming consensus seems that sticking to the 60k schedule with the timing is a good idea. im at 90k now, so i feel like im driving a time bomb.

that said, i hope to switch out the belt and water pump this weekend if the weather is good. i noticed in one of the 3rd party manuals that the spark plugs should be removed (and replaced later). any reason why? this is something i really dont want to do if i dont have to.

also, i had done this job on my 93 escort a few years ago. this time im going to be doing it in a walmart parking lot, or some similar caveman setup (dont worry, i wont lose the coolant). does anyone remember whether i need the car on jackstands to access the necessary bits (removing the flywheel under the timing belt, etc) or can i just park and dissassemble?

thanks!

I think they want the plugs out because it will be easier to turn the engine over. I've replaced my belt three times and never pulled the plugs. I put a ratchet on the crankshaft pully and turn it slowly and it turns over with no problem. If you cut the wheels all the way to the right you should be able to get at it without jacking it up. If you're going to change the water pump then you should change the hoses while your at it. When I changed my timing belt the first time I left the cover off of it. First off it makes it easier to inspect later and secondly if you do this again you'll already have that part out of the way.

great, thanks a lot.

Never replace the plugs while the engine is hot. Since you're driving it to the parking lot they will be hot. Even though it may not seem hot on the outside, at the core it will be. Touch the actual block and get scolded - your combustion chamber will be ~this temp.

Plugs should be replaced after letting it sit overnight. Plugs will have to be removed and regapped several times through-out the vehicle's lifetime. Eventually you'll have to replace them too. Each time you remove and replace them you're causing some damage to the threads. Replacing them on a cold engine minimizes the amount of damage not only because the metal parts will have contracted, but also because aluminum won't be as soft when at ambient air temperatures.

Agree with AZTW on aligning the timing marks... you might be able to turn the engine slowly. But if not, then you will have to remove the plugs before you'll be able to turn the engine.

Molded hoses should be fine though... just check them for signs of dry-rot or bulges both tiny/large. Vehicles as old as 15 years still have their original molded hoses. Liquid silicon lubricant helps protect rubber parts from dry rot.

Capture the coolant and take it into a service center for disposal. Don't reuse it. Exposure might rapidly break down it's anti-corrossive additives. Clogged heater cores and radiators are a *itch on any vehicle. Most often home mechanics just end up replacing them.

Replace with a 55/45 mix coolant/water and always add 50/50 mix thereafter. Never add/top-off with straight water even during the Summer. In recent frigid weather I've seen wwwaaayyy too many vehicles on the side of the highways. These are most likely folks who have topped-off with straight water during the warmer months.