98 Explorer wont start. Can't find solinoid (HELP!)

you guys may laugh at me cuz i have a feeling that this is just a simple problem, but im new to fixing my own vehicle.
On Tuesday Night my vehicle refused to start for me. the anti-theft ignition port (wutever its called) wasnt blinking so i had a feeling that something was wrong immediately. After putting the fitting into the port it beeped and then started blinking as normal (slowly) then i put it in again and it started blinking rapidly (letting me know its okay to start engine).
However when i turned the key to the start position, the starter just clicked. Held the key in the start position and it clicked once about every second. So I called around and people thought it was the solinoid. Bought one from Napa, came home to attempt to fix on my own, BOUT I CANT FIND WHERE IT GOES! Ive seached everywhere visible.

Was wondering (1.) if you guys could help me find where the starter solinoid is and (2.) if there are any differential diagnosis'?

I think I've found the solenoid, if Im correct its underneath the truck right on the starter. I've started to attempt replacing it but it's getting dark so I'll have to hold out until tomorrow to find pout if this really is the problem.

Also I have a new symptom. Just before attempting to replace, I tried starting the engine again. Instead of a steady 'one click per second' from the starter, it is now a rapidfire clicking. Maybe 20 clicks a second or so.

If the solenoid is clicking, the solenoid is not the problem. It sounds like you have a low battery or a bad connection for the starter. They rapid clicking is due to the current draw from the starter causing the voltage to drop so much the solenoid drops out. Then when the load is removed from the battery (because the solenoid opens) the battery voltage is high enough to again engage the solenoid, and the cycle repeats. That's the rapid clicking you're hearing.

-Rod

I think I've found the solenoid, if Im correct its underneath the truck right on the starter. I've started to attempt replacing it but it's getting dark so I'll have to hold out until tomorrow to find pout if this really is the problem.

Also I have a new symptom. Just before attempting to replace, I tried starting the engine again. Instead of a steady 'one click per second' from the starter, it is now a rapidfire clicking. Maybe 20 clicks a second or so.Welcome Aboard.Ok rapid clicks indicate lack of power in curcit. first test battery next check pos&neg connections for corrosion(green or white fluff) & oxide build up(black coating on post)then check cables.pos. to the relay on fender next to distribution box(black shoe box with power cables in& out) check all wiring from battery to starter for good clean connections.

quick update for you guys. i havent found anywhere where there would be too bad of a connection for the power. however I had tried jumping it Friday night and had no luck. my friend that helped me out said his cables were old tho so I should try new ones. so i jumped it again today with newer cables connected to my dads new truck and success! however: i let it run about 10 minutes, everything electrical was fine from wut i saw (headlights full strength, dashboard lights fine, radio works nicely) but when i went to turn it off and immediately tried turning it back on, and instead of starting up I got the same rapidfire clicking. battery or starter problem?

i have little experience compared to u guys, but from my own deductions i tought that more than likely the cold had finally gotten to the battery (we've had two weeks straight of weather hovering at around -10 F). it sucked workin on the problem for a few hours a day all last week but i thanks for ur guys help thus far. I will continue to troubleshoot and will give updates when along the way.

quick update for you guys. i havent found anywhere where there would be too bad of a connection for the power. however I had tried jumping it Friday night and had no luck. my friend that helped me out said his cables were old tho so I should try new ones. so i jumped it again today with newer cables connected to my dads new truck and success! however: i let it run about 10 minutes, everything electrical was fine from wut i saw (headlights full strength, dashboard lights fine, radio works nicely) but when i went to turn it off and immediately tried turning it back on, and instead of starting up I got the same rapidfire clicking. battery or starter problem?

i have little experience compared to u guys, but from my own deductions i tought that more than likely the cold had finally gotten to the battery (we've had two weeks straight of weather hovering at around -10 F). it sucked workin on the problem for a few hours a day all last week but i thanks for ur guys help thus far. I will continue to troubleshoot and will give updates when along the way.get(borrow or buy) battery tester test battery under load. can also be tested with volt meter while turning on head lights. bet battery is toast

Since it is a 98 and 10 years old you probably are on your second battery. They rarely last longer than 5 years regardless of the rating.I think you need another battery.

And if the battery was left in the cold in a discharged state, there's a really good chance the battery is shot. You definitely don't want to try charging/jump starting a frozen battery.

Many of the chain auto parts stores or dedicated battery stores can load test the battery.

-Rod

hey thank you guys for the help. i feel like an idiot, but it was the battery. the temperature destroyed it. at least i learned from this experience tho. got a new battery yesterday, installed it today, car started perfectly normal. the temperature is nice now, it feels like hawaii. its all the way up to 45 degrees!

but new question, its not a problem i have tho. but if my last battery said it has 425 amps and the new battery i was pushed to buying only has 275 aps will this be a problem in the long run? i meant to ask the napa guy why he offered me a different battery but i was in a rush to get home and install before dark.

Are you talking CCA on both or CA on one and CCA on the other? If you are looking at the same parameter on both, then you will probably want to get a 425 amp or higher version as soon as you can or you will probably have starting problems much sooner than you should from a recent battery.

-Rod

Are you talking CCA on both or CA on one and CCA on the other? If you are looking at the same parameter on both, then you will probably want to get a 425 amp or higher version as soon as you can or you will probably have starting problems much sooner than you should from a recent battery.

-Rod

im not sure, what exactly is CA and CCA? I'll check tomorrow on the battery for CA and CCA but for now all i can tell you is that the new 275 amp battery is a bit smaller than the old 425 amp battery was. I'll check in the morning for your answer.

Batteries are often rated in Cranking Amps (CA) and Cold Cranking Amps (CCA). The CA will generally be significantly higher than the CCA. It seems that 275 CCA would be too small unless you live in a tropical climate that never gets below maybe 70 degrees F. If the CA rating is 275 amps, then I think you're really not going to be happy with this battery. According to the owner's manual, your Explorer should have a 650 CCA battery.

I suppose there's a remote chance that the act of starting your engine discharges the battery so much that it puts extra strain on the alternator and could cause the alternator to fail more rapidly, but I don't really have anything to substantiate that thought.

-Rod