Need help...replaced the Ignition Switch but now...

The car won't turn over. When I turn the key all the way to start, I don't get the resistance when it is cranking either. what have I done, or not done?

The car won't turn over. When I turn the key all the way to start, I don't get the resistance when it is cranking either. what have I done, or not done?

We are not mind readers.
You need to tell us what you have done and niot done and what it is doing.

Start with year make and model and engine and transmission and mileage and if 4W.

On engine not cranking first check is the battery and battery volatage and battery cabels.
Have you tryed a battery charge or jump start.
Does it click or make any sounds when key is on a nd the turned to start?
Any dash lights/horn/heater blower or head lights?

my apologies. I had another thread that I inadvertantly incorporated into this one for some reason. About a year ago my 99 Blazer LT 4.3 4wd started intermittant starting problems. I replaced the Fuel Pump and Ignition Module. This seemed to solve the problem for a about 3 months then it started doing it again, cold, hot, didn't matter what the weather. I took it in to my Mechanic and he found some bad vacuum hoses and broken Dist. cap screw which he fixed all. This helped for about 2-3 more months then it happens again. I took it back to him where he tried to check it out in his spare time which is very nill these days. He thinks it's a bad wire somewhere but can't find it. I then took it into my GM Dealer to run the codes. They tell me it's the Fuel Pump and Ignition Module again. I put in an Airtek cheapo before so i figured it could be bad, so I replaced both again, no start. Next option was on this Forum Board where it looked like an Ignition Switch problem, so i replaced that and No Start! I don't know what to do now. I'm not good at Electric stuff. Any Info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Doug

On the electrial end start with checking for good hot blue spark to all plugs.
Any check engine lights or security on or any codes stored.

On fuel pump.
You need to run a fuel pressure test.

The only true test on a fuel pump is to check the direct fuel pressure from fuel pump.
A quick test is to block off the return line and see if fuel pressure comes up to 75-85 lbs.
But do not run the pump at full pressure very long.
Also when testing fuel pump and pressure you need to tape a gauge to outside windshield or outside mirror and drive it on the road for 20 -30 minutes
until the pump gets has run a while to check for a pump fading out after hot.

Hard to start cold and fuel pressure testing guide line.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system.
Post back fuel pressure readings.

And info on spark and codes.

I just have a cheap fuel pressure gauge. At Key On position it goes up to 58 lbs. then starts bleeding down to 56ish rather quickly. It doesn't hold at 58 for any amount of time.

Make sure your gauge is right.
Try another gauge or.
Try it on another car and see if it reads right on it.

Go threw as much of the outlined test as you can.
Even a few lbs low can give a no start.
You need 65 key on or engine cranking pressure.
If not.
Check direct /full fuel pump pressure.
Should be 95 or more.
If not pump is bad.
If good direct fuel pressure and low regulated pressure you have a fuel regulator problem or a real bad leak.
A good fuel delivery test is to spray some carb cleaner into intake when cranking.
If it fires up with carb cleaner you have a fuel deliver problem.

Good Luck

I checked for spark. I don't get a definite Blue Spark but a light yellow one?? I'm charging the Battery and will try it again. I've been cranking on it for a couple days so that by be the proiblem there. I tried to pull the plug and test for spark with the plug wire on and turn it over but got no spark. It wasn't until I bought a Spark tester that i got the light spark.

When checking for spark always check at the coil to.

Always make sure battery is good is charged up good.

If you have been doing a lot of cranking pull and check spark plugs for gas fouled spark plugs.
If so I always replace plugs with the AC delco plugs the ac book calls for.

When checking for spark always check at the coil to.

Always make sure battery is good is charged up good.

If you have been doing a lot of cranking pull and check spark plugs for gas fouled spark plugs.
If so I always replace plugs with the AC delco plugs the ac book calls for.

Should'nt you be able to see some spark at the electrode on the plug itself if it's connected to the plug wire while cranking it?

Should'nt you be able to see some spark at the electrode on the plug itself if it's connected to the plug wire while cranking it?


Always use a spark tester that makes the spark jump a gap.
And also test at coil tower and at the end of plug wire on more than one spark plug.

man, I don't mean to be an idiot here. Just appologizing in advance for future stupid questions. The Spark tester I bought lets you check spark at the Plug. You connect between the Plug and Plug wire. Doesn't show how to do it at the Coil Tower. Is the Coil Tower the Distributor cap top?

man, I don't mean to be an idiot here. Just appologizing in advance for future stupid questions. The Spark tester I bought lets you check spark at the Plug. You connect between the Plug and Plug wire. Doesn't show how to do it at the Coil Tower. Is the Coil Tower the Distributor cap top?

checking spark threw the plug can give a bad reading/test.

They make a spark tester that ground to the engine and you run the wire to it and has a adjustable gag jumper.
Thextron part no 404.
KD tools may have one.
Unless you have a pace maker.
A poor boy test is a phillips screwdrive held close to engine will do to.
Spark should jump over 1/4 with a good hot blue snap to it.