'92 Accord PS Windows blow fuses; DS are OK

The Passenger side windows in my 1992 Accord do not work.

I have replaced the blown fuses once and blew them again.

Need advise on tracking down the problem. There is a wiring holder just beyond the front door hing area but it is difficult to get to without possibly removing the door.

Please provide suggestions on how this type of issue can be traced/corrected.

Thanks

Does it blow fuses if you operate them from the passenger's side controls, or only from the master control on the driver's side?

The fuse blows when you attempt to operate them, or immediately when changed?

Jeff:

I put in the fuses, and cycled the switch on the drivers side. Niether window functioned and both fuses blew.

I did not look at the fuses in between these steps.

I cannot recall if I cycled the pass side switch first or not.

I have another set of fuses that I can work with in steps.

What steps and order would you suggest?

Are you familiar with the wire bundle cover close to the wheel well beyond the hinge?
I am thinking this may be where to look for the source of the short, of there is a short.

The master switch may be bad too but I find it strange that it is both Pass side windows.

No I can't picture it offhand, I'll look at the wife's '95 and see if it's similar.

I was just thinking that if it does not blow right away upon replacement but does blow when using the passenger's side control, that would essentially rule out the master control as the cause.

I'm still trying to figure out how the lockout feature could figure into it. It has this, right? i suppose the LR window would have problems too if that were involved...

Most PW wiring shorts seem to occur in the flex conduit inside the door jamb, if that's what you are looking at. Usually you can pop the conduit free on one side and pull it back and see what's happening. But I understand access is limited on some cars.

Then there's the old tried and true method...replace the fuse with a piece of metal, and whatever catches on fire, that was the problem...:rofl:...just kidding, let's not...

For starters I'd replace the affected fuses w/key off. Pull them back out and check to be sure they didn't blow. Turn the key on for a few seconds, and off and check again.

If they are still intact, turn the key on and try lowering a PS window at the PS controls, then turn key off and check fuses again.

If the passenger's side controls will work the windows without blowing fuses, there's a strong indication the master switch may be involved.

If the fuses are still good at this point, try operating them from the master control with the lockout enabled...

But if it blows them regardless of how you go about it, I'm going to guess the problem is in the flex wiring in the door jamb, as you suggested.

At that point I would try to see if the windows work with the door open, and slowly close it while holding the switch, to see if at some point a short is made, and the fuses blow. That would cinch it, if that were to happen...

Let's start with the tin foil.

I actually like the door open idea.

I'll run through your suggesstions and see what happens.

I am in west michigan and we are going into the coldest weekend of the year.

It's a perfect time to work on plastics and motors and electrical issues; Not.

I can hold out on some things until the weather breaks a little.

My biggest issue is that the PS front window is slighly open and I get wind noise and the interior freezes up because I can't seal out the elements well. i.e. Ice on the windows turns to water when everything heats up. I actually think the windows on the inside are dirtiry then on the outside right now. I'll keep you posted on my progress, but it will be a few days.

DC

Time for duct tape.

Happened to my sons 92 on the drivers side. Changed out master switch and it was good to go. Thought it was the window motor at first. Was happy it wasn't after almost $200. Ebay switch $10!!!::iceslolan