Tie Rod troubles.......

A few months ago, when my wife's 99 Blazer 2wd was in the shop to diagnose another issue, I was told that there was some play in the tie rods. The tech took me into the repair bay and pulled on one of them, they did move quite easily and I assume they should be nice and tight. Being a novice, I had just a few simple questions: When I am ready to work on her, and get her up on jack stands, what should I look for? Next, is there a certain part that tends to wear out that I shoud direct my attention towards? Is there a link that someone could send that would help me accomplish this feat? Lastly, on a scale of 1 to 10, how difficult would it be for me to do this myself? I have looked on a few sites and noticed that I would need a specialized tool or two that are reasonably priced, so that's not an issue. When I do get some time to work on it, I am just assuming without looking that the connecting bolts probably wear through time and that is what the shop clerk was speaking of. Any input would be welcomed and appreciated.

Even carefully counting the amount of turns it takes to remove the tie-rod, you will still need to have your front end aligned. So you can replace them yourself but you will still need a trip to a front-end shop.

Yes, I was told that I would need to get an alignment done and am prepared for that. I essentially just wanted to know what I need to look for and what needs replacing, rods, connector bolts, both........things like that.

Yes, I was told that I would need to get an alignment done and am prepared for that. I essentially just wanted to know what I need to look for and what needs replacing, rods, connector bolts, both........things like that.

Pretty simple if it's just the tie rods. You just need the tie rod ends and a special puller is often required to separate a tie-rod end from the steering knuckle, which AutoZone will loan you. As far as an alignment, the tie rods only affect toe in so take a tape measure and measure the distance across the tires at the point most forward on the tread and adjust the new tie rods back to that. If ground is 0 dgrees than the front will be 90 dgrees up on the tires.

But always be suspect of demonstrations of wear on Blazers, you might not have a problem. The correct way to check for problems was posted way back on this forum

Proper procedure for checking an idler arm for looseness or wear.
The suspension should be normally loaded on the ground or on an alignment rack. When raised by a frame contact hoist, the vehicle's steering linkage is allowed to hang, and proper testing cannot be done.
Jerking the front wheel and tire assembly back and forth (causing an up- and down-movement in the idler arm) is not an acceptable method of checking, as there is no control on the amount of force being applied.
Check the idler arm ends for worn sockets or deteriorated bushings.
Grasp the center link firmly with your hand at the idler arm end.
Push up with approximately a 25-pound (110 N) load.
Pull down with the same load.

The allowable movement of the idler arm and support assembly in one direction is 1/8 inch (3 mm), for a total acceptable movement of 1/4 inch (6 mm).
The load can be accurately measured by using a dial indicator or pull spring scale located as near the center link end of the idler arm as possible.
Keep in mind that the test forces should not exceed 25 pounds (110 N), as even a new idler arm might be forced to show movement due to steel flexing when excessive pressure is applied.
It is also necessary that a scale or ruler be rested against the frame and used to determine the amount of movement.
Observers tend to overestimate the actual movement when a scale is not used.
The idler arm should always be replaced if it fails this test.


Center Links - may also be called a Drag Link, Connecting Arm or Steering Arm Rod.

• When inspecting the center link, look closely to insure it has not been bent or damaged.
• Grasp the center link firmly and try moving it in all directions.
• Any movement, or sign of damage, is reason for replacement.
• Tapered openings seldom wear but should be checked for enlargement caused by a loose connection. If necessary, replace the center link.

Tie-rod end

• Tie-rod end and center link inspections are similar.
• Grasp the tie-rod end firmly.
• Push vertically with the stud, and inspect for movement at the joint with the steering knuckle.
Any movement over 1/8 inch (3 mm) or observation of damaged or missing parts, such as seals, is sufficient evidence that replacement is necessary.
An additional check of the tie-rods can be made by rotating each tie-rod end to feel for roughness or binding, which could indicate that the socket has probably rusted internally. A special puller is often required to separate a tie-rod end from the steering knuckle.

Toe does not cause a pull or drift. It will however, wear out tires faster than any other alignment adjustment if incorrect, so measure carefully.

Hey Tink,

I'd like to throw my 2 cents worth in here.

If you have access to a few basic tools as well as a jack and stands Tie Rods are pretty easy to do. The special tool to seperate the tie rod from the spindle isn't really necessary if you know what your doing but is a good idea for a novices since you can trash the stearing knuckle if you get a little carried away with the hammer. Rental places usual charge or the big name auto parts store will loan them to you if you leave a deposit.

The actual proceedure is pretty basic:
Expose the tie rod
Spray everything with penatrating oil and let soak for a while
Remove the cotter Pin and nut
Seperate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
Loosen the Clamp on the tie rod sleeve or jam nut on rack and pinion front end
Turn the tie rod end out of the tie rod sleeve or off of the tie rod for R & P front ends (Remember to count turns)
Put the grease fitting in the new tie rod
Install the new tie rod by reversing the above proceedure
I recommend putting anti-seize on the theads (both the joint end and the sleeve end)
Don't over tight the nut on the joint and also remember to put in the cotter pin
Remember to tight the sleeve clamp or jam nut

The above proceedure assumes your replacing the outer tie rods but the process is similar for the inners, you are just pulling the tie rod out of the
center link instead of the stearing knuckle. One of the tricky parts is that the inners have left hand threads so make sure your turning them in the
correct direction.

The advantage to doing it yourself is that you can buy the name brand components like Borg Warner or Moog for the same price or less than the shop will charge you to put the cheap chinese crap in.

I also kind of recommend that unless your absolutely sure the other side is okay that you replace both side at the same time. The extra cost is nominal, it only take a little while longer since you already have the front end up and the tools out and it give you just that little extra piece of mind.

When you are replacing the tie rod count the number of turns it takes to get the old one off and put the new one on with the same number of turns. This method will get the toe in close enough to the old setting that you won't wipe out the tires taking it to get an alignment (note here: there is no guaranty that from one manufacturer to another the first thread to joint center line is the same so every time you change tie rods the toe in will have to be reset).

I highly recommend you get an alignment, yes there are ways to set the toe in with a tape measure however, if it has been so long since your last alignment that the tie rods have worn out then it is time to have all of the alignment angles checked and adjusted. This is cheap insurance unless you can get tires and front end parts for free. You may want to contact a good front end shop, tell them you will bring your car to them for the alignment after you replace the tie rod ends and ask if they will do a pre-alignment inspection for you. A good shop will check the control arm buishings, ball joints, springs, and steering components. It's kind of a drag to take you car to a good alignment shop and find out that the idler arm (harder than tie rods but still do-able by a novice) or ball joints (I wouldn't recommend doing these for a novice) are loose but the tire store hack you took it to the first time didn't catch that.

Anyway, I'll get off my soap box and let you get to it.

Good luck,
Sparky