Our Community is over 1 Million Strong. Join Us.

Grand Future Air Dried Beef Dog Food
Air Dried Dog Food | Real Beef

Grain-Free, Zero Fillers


h22a w/parts


iceiso
03-21-2003, 09:13 PM
alright, i'm almost done saving up for an h22a to swap into my car. i'm still not 100% sure about the swap yet cuz i still have to figure out prices and stuff.

anyways, i only have a greddy catback exhaust on my car right now. if i get a swap, am i going to be able to keep that? also, since the f22a (accord) and h22a are so similar, can i use f22a intakes and headers on prelude engines? what parts are interchangable, and which parts definately CAN'T be mixed. the reason i want to know, is because there are some things that i want to get now and i don't want to have to buy another one if i DO get the h22a swap. there are:

short shifter
intake
headers

yeah, thats pretty much it. if you can dish out a little more info. about anything related, that would be great also, cuz i'm trying to figure out as much as i can before i spend 3k!

oh yeah, also. i live in MD. which is the way for me to actually get hold of a h22a JDM motor. should i buy it online or go to a shop? how would the whole process work? does the shop take my request and buy an h22a and inspect it for me? not too comfortable with putting it in myself, and everyone that has done swaps are all b16's into civics. does anyone know a good place to get this done? approximate prices (swap and engine).

i know this is pretty long, and probably not that coherent :). but if anyone could help out with any related info, MUCH THANKS!!!

maxspeedhonda
03-22-2003, 04:26 AM
Thats alot of questions, but I guess I'll take a stab at what I know. You will be able to keep the catback, worse comes to worse you will probably have to bring it into a muffler shop and have them modify it (wont cost much). As for the intake, my buddy has a 93 h22a accord and he used a AEM intake for the accord and it fit fine, I'm not sure after that body stlyle change though. Headers for your car will not fit on a h22a. I'm not sure about the short shifter but I am thinking no, I could be wrong though. There are not lots of parts interchangeable with the h22a like a b series motor. The closest motor is prob the f22a, but it will only be a few parts, and just the little things. Pricewise you are better off ordering online, just reseach what you are buying. If you had a shop with a bunch of h22a's laying around you could hand pick one but I doubt there is a place like that by you. Do a search on the net and piece together a list of all the parts you will need to complete the swap. There is nothing worse than getting halfway through and having to put the project on hold because of lack of the appropriate parts.

iceiso
03-23-2003, 08:55 AM
thanks for the info! when/if i get the h22a, i'm just going to do the basic bolt ons, (intake and header). if i buy the intake and headers for the prelude, will i have to modify them to fit the body style of my accord? will i need any special parts for the exhaust and header to work well. what about a cold air?

jcrx
03-23-2003, 11:39 AM
Maxspeed pretty much nailed it intake sure,cat back custom,shortshifter,if they both have cable it should work,but I'm not sure if your Accord does,so maybe.But IMO you shouldn't waste any money buying "maybe" parts for your car.Save up and buy the parts for the motor you're getting and drop it all at the same ime,there is no point in doing the work twice.

maxspeedhonda
03-23-2003, 02:01 PM
Originally posted by jcrx
Maxspeed pretty much nailed it intake sure,cat back custom,shortshifter,if they both have cable it should work,but I'm not sure if your Accord does,so maybe.But IMO you shouldn't waste any money buying "maybe" parts for your car.Save up and buy the parts for the motor you're getting and drop it all at the same ime,there is no point in doing the work twice.

He is absolutley right. The power gains you might get on the accord motor will not be worth the money. Definatley do the swap first and then buy the appropriate parts.

iceiso
03-25-2003, 03:01 PM
alright, i'm gonna save up for everything and buy everything at once. thanks for the help! i still have a couple more questions though, haha.

1st. What are some reliable places to buy an engine online?
2nd. Is it worth it to buy the 220HP version over the 200HP h22a?
3rd. How easy is the swap to do? I have a friend that has done some B series into civics, but has never done a h22a into accord. On a 1-10 scale (10 being the hardest), where is the B and h22a swap?
4th. Any good sites to read w/some good information. IE EVERYTHING i do, the swap itself...
5th. Is there anything i should do w/the engine before the swap while it's out of my car?

i think that covers it for now. again, thanks alot for replies!

strodda
03-25-2003, 10:28 PM
if you want the best reliability goto a local shop and have them order one for you. thats what ill be doing when i drop my car off at the shop. as far as difficulty, i have no idea, but im paying someone else to do it so i could care less how hard it is.

id say go for the regular h22 and put in type-s cams. and before installation you should do any internal mods you want. cams, springs, rods, etc. theyll be easily accessible, and the fluids are already drained. as well as getting a new timing belt, water pump and clutch kit... unless they come nearly brand new.

iceiso
04-05-2003, 10:58 AM
if i get a new exhaust, do i get a prelude one and mod it to the chassis of my accord, or buy an accord one and mod it to fit to the exhaust system of the prelude?

93accordEX
04-05-2003, 12:05 PM
if you get a catback, then get the accord one, but you may as well have it custom made.

maxspeedhonda
04-05-2003, 12:22 PM
As for my insight....

I don't know a whole lot of online sites for motors, personally I wouldn't order one through there. I went down to Miami to a place that specializes in Honda swaps and I just picked out the one I wanted and put it in the truck. My friend has a 92 accord with the h22a SH swap that he did the same thing. It runs low 14's with I/H/E and full trim. I agree that you are better off getting a h22a and switching the cams. My friend said the SH motor was a nightmare to wire to the accord. Other that that, it should drop in without many problems if you are mechanically inclined. If not, I'd have a mechanic do it. While the motor is out, you should replace the water pump and DEFINATLEY the clutch. My clutch went after a month of having put the motor in. And if you plan on building it up, save some money and do that while it is out as well. Anyhow, good luck!

iceiso
04-06-2003, 12:03 AM
if i plan on turbocharging, should i not buy the headers and intake since i'm going to need to replace them and build up the engine instead?

maxspeedhonda
04-06-2003, 07:43 PM
Yep you got the idea. If that's the route you plan to go, then save that 300-400 bucks and put it to the turbo. Plus I mean you are looking at the MOST of a 10 hp gain between the two give or take. A built h22a turbocharged is a potent thing, I'd say go for it.

iceiso
04-06-2003, 09:28 PM
aaalright, i'm starting to get it...what EXACTLY do i need to mod/replace when people say "building up the internals" for FI? where can i get these parts and how much will it cost on just building up the engine?

i heard about the h23 and turbocharging. it's non vtec, and it has around the same TQ as the h22a, but i've heard that it's a "torquey monster" and things like that? why do ppl say that since the TQ specs are about the same?

i've also heard that vtec and turbo (ideally) work very well together, however there can be many problems and troubleshooting when trying to make them work in conjunction, is this true?

alright, i'll try to tie it all up!
if i turbocharge the h22 and the h23, will the h22 end up w/higher hp/tq since it started higher or will they be about the same?

what kind of HP and 1/4 will i be looking at initially right after my swap and after FI. what about swap w/o FI but with basic bolt ons?

haha, i have so many more questions, and everytime i think of a swap, i have new ones but i keep on forgetting them. maybe i should write them down! well, for anyone who can stand reading all this, and can help out, thanks alot! you've all been such a big help so far!

maxspeedhonda
04-07-2003, 09:43 AM
Alright, as far as building it up it depends on how far you want to go. Basics are pistons, rings, rods, valves, springs, and retainers. From there you could get a new crankshaft and sleeve the block. Oh and the h22a is notorious for weak ring lands, so you would want to take care of that. It can run you anywhere from 1000-5000. If you plan to run lower boost though, you will be alright. I am not sure why people say that about the torque but I have heard it as well. Vtec and turbo can work together well although the vtec more useful in NA apps. I have not had any problems with the vtec and turbo together yet. You just have to watch the air/fuel, mine tends to lean out when vtec engages. You should end up with higher number turbochargeing the h22a rather than h23. FI will prob give you around 250ish depending on boost level and how its tuned. 1/4 vary with turbo cars so I couldnt give you an estimate there. NA however should get you in the 14's.

iceiso
04-07-2003, 03:40 PM
alright, maxspeedhonda, what level of boost is considered "low boost"? what can i do about running lean when vtec kicks in (what do you do)? i was trying to get to about 275-300HP (hopefully more! want the fastest accord around). which kind of turbo should i get if i want these numbers? the t3/t4? also, what's a good turbo kit?

maxspeedhonda
04-07-2003, 08:02 PM
Low boost is pretty much anything below 10psi. What I do for fuel management is the apexi vafc, it is pricey but it was alot better than the greddy fcu. It is set to provide more fuel at engagement point. The t3/t4 is a good turbo to get going with, as far as kits, I would recommend drag or apexi. They are better but have a higher price tag, greddy is a good alternative for price/quality. And if seriously want to achieve those numbersm, you will definatley need to build it as you are prob going to have to boost in the neighborhood of 15 psi.

D2daT2daM
04-08-2003, 09:24 AM
look here man it should answer all your questions
http://www.h22a.org/4gswap.htm the tranny is a tight fit so youre going to have to wiggle it in :licker:

iceiso
04-08-2003, 01:28 PM
ahhhh!!! i just checked on a site. forged pistons and rods will cost about 2,600! (!!!!!) maaaan, for greddy. is there a cheaper company/place? where did you get YOUR parts from?

95flaredhatch
04-08-2003, 02:55 PM
my buddy turbo his and ran 8 psi and that was it. any more wouldnt be a good thing. i tell you what though, i did a h22 in my 95 civic hatch and love it. do the h22

iceiso
04-08-2003, 04:55 PM
alright, i e-mailed hmotorsonline about my engine. which year engine should i get? they said they can get any requested year. i know either 96- or 97+ is better because of the ECU. which one was it and why is it better?

iceiso
04-08-2003, 06:14 PM
also, what do i do about the gauges? the prelude has a different redline so do i just buy a standalone tach or does someone make a prelude tach for accord dash?

maxspeedhonda
04-08-2003, 06:35 PM
Just get a stand alone monster tach. If you are concerned about the price of a buildup right now, then just see if you can get an SH motor of a set of SH cams and drop in the stock h22a. As for my parts, i got my turbo kit from Titan motorsports in Orlando for $2300. My pistons and rods I bought as a package deal from RACE engineering for about 1200.

iceiso
04-09-2003, 02:02 PM
Originally posted by iceiso
alright, i e-mailed hmotorsonline about my engine. which year engine should i get? they said they can get any requested year. i know either 96- or 97+ is better because of the ECU. which one was it and why is it better?

anyone? i'm starting to look up products and record prices...thanks!

D2daT2daM
04-09-2003, 07:38 PM
Originally posted by iceiso
ahhhh!!! i just checked on a site. forged pistons and rods will cost about 2,600! (!!!!!) maaaan, for greddy. is there a cheaper company/place? where did you get YOUR parts from?
2600??? wtf are they made out of gold? they shouldnt be that much go online and search for je pistons

iceiso
04-15-2003, 09:16 PM
is it true that obd1 is better because obd2 "relearns" to stock specifications? which year preludes are obd1?

D2daT2daM
04-16-2003, 04:24 PM
Originally posted by iceiso
is it true that obd1 is better because obd2 "relearns" to stock specifications? which year preludes are obd1? every car that is 1995 or older has obd1 obd2 was introduced to every car that is 1996+

93lude
08-03-2003, 01:14 AM
OK this might help u out a little on buying your engine. http://www.osakajdmmotors.com/
Cheapest i can find but also come with pretty much every thing you need.
I am all so getting a h22a for my prelude in the next few weeks but that another story.
o yea not every thing has to be greddy. try mugen or some other cheaper brand

preludetypes
08-03-2003, 09:22 PM
dont get the sh motor if you do get the non sh tranny it bolts right the torque transfer system isnt worth all the hassle i had tons of problems with and now i have the h22a type s and im currently looking for a new tranny without torque transfer

dorkphish
08-30-2003, 11:42 AM
6-8 would probably be ok... the DRAG turbo kit is supposed to be a great kit to start out with....http://www.splittingimagez.com/drag.htm... with the base and potential of the h22a those numbers that you are looking for are deffinately within reach. just dont skimp out on ANYTHING.... you are talking about taking your accord where it wasn't designed to go so i cant stress enough that you absolutely have to do it right.... I'm fairly new to this... but just to let you know i've been reading for about 8 months now.... everything i can get my hands on... (and i still dont feel like i know anything)... and i'm not going to do my swap until i've figured for every angle possible..

93hybridaccord
09-02-2003, 08:55 PM
I'm looking for numbers in the 350-450 range, but all motor. Price for that on just building the motor is about 7k. I looked into building it turbo, but I plan on pushing around 20psi and it would have cost me around the same as all motor. Sure I would have had more hp, but with that comes more lag. I'm looking for strictly track use though, not a daily driver. The big thing is to get your engine from a shop you trust and also have the block machined by people who know what they are doing.

Add your comment to this topic!


Quality Real Meat Nutrition for Dogs: Best Air Dried Dog Food | Real Beef Dog Food | Best Beef Dog Food