88 scottsdale auto front locking hubs?

I'll make this as simple as I can... 1/2 ton

I pulled my knob to lock my hubs, they engaged but when I backed up and turned it made one hell of a CLUNK and now the front wont engage and on the way home it was making an aweful clicking sound but especially if I turned sharp. it only seems to make noise on the right side. Hubs or hub gone bad? some kind of actuator gone bad? BAD time of year to lose 4x4 UGH!!

Sounds like maybe the right CV Shaft broke.

//2000CAYukon

thank you, it was the cv shaft. my haynes manual says I pretty much need to rip the whole front end apart but from looking at it, it looks like it will slide right out. (ofcourse its never that easy). as I was removing the bolts on the shaft. I noticed the shaft going into the axel was sliding in and out, is that supposed to happen? Two more questions... What size is the hub nut? I don't want to have to buy a whole set just for one size and also is this a relatively easy process or am I jumping into something I'm gonna regret.

It is a 36mm and you can get this socket at most parts store.You do not have to take apart most of the front suspension.Put a Jackstand under the frame and put a jack under the lower A frame jacking up the lower A frame.It should slide out.

ok, this may sound dumb but is that nut reverse thread? that B@$!@&@ aint budgin!!! heh

It comes off like a converntial nut and bolt comes off.

Those hub nuts are torqued on very tight, so a cheater bar will probably be needed...aka 4-ft iron pipe. As long as you're at the parts store, and if you need it, see if they can lend you a torque wrench that'll go up to the torque spec. Most max out at 150 ft-lbs while the hubs require around 180 (don't quote me, check the repair manual). Hope this helps!

180 or 1800? went through 1 craftsman breaker bar so far and this back up is bending like rubber. Someones gonna get hurt today and I think its ME I'm goin in!!! lol

Ayup...spec says 173 ft-lbs for your '88 with independent front suspension. My little Jimmy was 180 & needed a long-ass pipe to do it.

I bought two sections of pipe, a 2' section large enough to fit over my torque wrench and another 4' section I could screw onto the end of it using a threaded adapter...made it 6' total. Made it easy. Spraying it with penetrant might help, too.

At least Craftsman has a lifetime warranty...I don't see how breaking a breaker bar can be considered abuse. But I will suggest that the cheater pipe be long enough to for the end to slide all the way to the pivot head, not trying to bend it at the mid-section.

Good luck!

it worked. One breaker bar and possible hernia but I refused to let it kick my ass.now the bad news...When I said it looked like it would squeeze right on out of there as it should in a perfect world..... NOPE maybe if I take the shock off?!?!? once I get feeling in my fingers and toes again I'll try everything short of a sawsall UGH!!!

Not sure of your specific setup, but if you've got a jack under the lower A-arm then unbolting the shock should be easy. I'd suggest using a coat hanger to wrap around the ends of it to keep the length (if you can get in there)...just make sure you store it AWAY from you if the hanger happens to break. It's steel wire, but not particularly strong wire.

Yes, it's a PITA...busted knuckles, hernias, etc., come with the territory, but do it right and you only have to do it once. That along with new tools to fill your toolbox with or hang on your garage wall as trophies. Good luck!

I knew it could'nt be that easy. I'm not sure why but the sleeve my axle bolts to floats. My 4x4 won't even engage. is there some kind of locking clip I'm missing?

I knew it could'nt be that easy. I'm not sure why but the sleeve my axle bolts to floats. My 4x4 won't even engage. is there some kind of locking clip I'm missing?

Is the new CV Shaft Installed and now 4x4 won't engage? Just want to be sure I understand where things are at now.

The front diff is activated by a thermal actuator and looks something like http://info.rockauto.com/RB/Detail2noTip.html?600-100.jpg.

If 4x4 is not activating, need to make sure the actuator is getting power.

//2000CAYukon

I don't have that. I have what looks like a piston controlled by a cable that goes into the cab with a knob.http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528008f4a8
fig. 6 gives a pretty good example on the right side though. the sleeve my shaft bolts to moves in and out.. I hope this helps describe it better

Is the front left working when in 4x4? Is the front output shaft of the transfer case turning?

//2000CAYukon

not sure, I can't get it to lock

the transfer case engages cause I tried it in 4 low (when I'm pulling on the handle, it seems like my front diffs dont want to lock in. I'm thinking the left sleeve being out1/2 inch? not sure why either UGH!!!!!

Any updates on this?

//2000CAYukon

I stopped at the dealer to see the parts list for the front end and that did'nt help me at all. We're getting hit with another snow storm so I'm taking a small vacation from it. Theres gotta be some kind of locking pin that holds that sleeve in place you would think. How you would set it is another problem. Its a good thing I love my truck I tell ya. If this were a women She'd be gone by now..Than again, even I hate to hear myself cry lol

It looks like I'm just gonna replace the front end. Thanks anyways guys