95 caprice dies after remote start install

My BF had a remote starter/ alarm put on his car, the same day when he drove it, it went dead while driving, he ran his battery down trying to re-start it, when i gave him a jump-off it started right up, so we figured the battery was week and we replaced it with a titanium. Well, that still did not fix it because it has still died several times, he has most problems in the morning before work, yesterday morning it died on his way to work and when i made it there to jump start him it started on it's own, When he got off work he checked all connections and grounds and found no problems. this morning he could not pull out of the drive way because it dies continuously. This only started to happen after the remote start was installed, what could be the problem?



Thanks

My engine light had been on for a while, (before the remote starter) but I did not have this problem until after the remote starter was installed.

Also when i try to read the codes (by jumping A & B) I don't get any flashes, but my engine fan comes on when i have the jumper in and goes off when i take the jumper out...is that normal?

Does the "SECURITY" light turn on with the ignition, then off within about five seconds?

You may also need a bi-directional scanner to read codes.

Yes you'll need to have that scanned properly to see what's going on. No remote starter would cause the thing to die after you've been driving for a while unless the harness is hacked up.

I had the guy unhook the alarm, but he just cut the power wire and left everything else tapped into the harness, nowwhen i press the door lock and unlock (manually) the horn blows with each press, when i have the ignition turned to on.

I will check on the security light thing, I have a 95 LT1 5.7

Then you have issues with the alarm wiring. Cutting the power to the alarm shouldn't cause the issue you are stating unless there's something else wrong.

Does the "SECURITY" light turn on with the ignition, then off within about five seconds?

You may also need a bi-directional scanner to read codes.



no I don't see a security light coming on at all! Any other suggestions?

link PRINTABLE VERSION (http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/printpage.asp?ModelID=19620&MakeID=54) here is the wire dia that the installer should haved used. the car has a pass key SECURITY system fuse #34 10 amp, make sure it's good. if the installer did not install a GM's VATS ANTI-THEFT System (if Equipped, Ignition Key has Chip) Requires 791 Bypass Module this explaines the car not running. hope this helps.

..... if the installer did not install a GM's VATS ANTI-THEFT System (if Equipped, Ignition Key has Chip) Requires 791 Bypass Module this explaines the car not running. hope this helps.

Not really. When I do the bypass on these vehicles for remote starters I just use a relay and the proper resistor(s) so the installer may not have used a premade bypass. I personally NEVER use anything from Bulldog.

I did hear him say something about a bypass module or resistor.

I pulled codes on my car and got these 2 codes

16 Low res pulse circuit failure

34 maf/map sensor too low

You don't need a bypass module with those codes, you need to fix what those codes tell you to fix.

I did hear him say something about a bypass module or resistor.

I pulled codes on my car and got these 2 codes

16 Low res pulse circuit failure

34 maf/map sensor too low

i have changed the map sensor but what does code 16 mean? what shouild i check?

#16: Distributor ignition system (low resolution pulse) So my guess is that the coil, distributor, plugs, or wires are bad or going bad.