Rear wiper motor issue
00Bravada
12-23-2008, 12:28 AM
I installed a new wiper motor on the rear today. When I turned it on as soon as the wiper touched the glass it stopped and I had to help give it a little push to move. After that i tried it once more and again it got stuck. This was the problem I was having with the original motor and that is why I replaced it. Any suggestions as to what more to do about this issue. Thanks
discnik
12-23-2008, 02:03 AM
Start with the basics, like thoroughly cleaning your back glass and wiper blade with either washer fluid or a good glass cleaner. Take a voltage test at the plug to see if you are getting the correct voltage. Check continuity on the ground wire to see if there is resistance. From my wiring diagram it looks like the orange wire should read 12 volts, the white wire should show varied voltage depending if the wiper switch is in the "low" or "high" position. Black wire is ground.
The hot wire from the wiper switch is gray this goes into the " rear wiper cutout and lift gate ajar" switch and becomes the white wire to the wiper motor.
Hope this helps.
The hot wire from the wiper switch is gray this goes into the " rear wiper cutout and lift gate ajar" switch and becomes the white wire to the wiper motor.
Hope this helps.
00Bravada
12-23-2008, 11:51 AM
Has to be voltage drop. When I'm sitting at light with the heat on blower motor going I noticed the voltage drops greatly. When I start going and the alternator powers up again the volts go up. I tried this today while it is snowing out I turned off the heat so that the blower would stop and turned on the rear wiper and it worked fine, but will not work while blower fan is on. What could be causing a voltage drop like this? I don't remember it doing something like this before. Also notice the voltage meter on dash when sitting at light with turn light on the meter bounces with every flash. Could this be a sign that my alternator might be on way out?
discnik
12-23-2008, 03:44 PM
I would go with the battery starting to go bad, as far as the alternator, never hurts to have it tested.
Chris Stewart
12-23-2008, 05:15 PM
The alternator is failing. It's designed to provide full current at idle speeds.
Be sure your alternator is rated 100 amps.
Some chain type auto parts stores will sell you a 40 amp cheap then take your 100 amp as a core...making money on both ends of the sale.
One slick trick is to have the local generator rebuilding shop repair your old alternator.
Be sure your alternator is rated 100 amps.
Some chain type auto parts stores will sell you a 40 amp cheap then take your 100 amp as a core...making money on both ends of the sale.
One slick trick is to have the local generator rebuilding shop repair your old alternator.
ericn1300
12-23-2008, 06:46 PM
could also be bad engine grounds. a quick check for bad grounds is to check for voltage in your coolant. With the engine cold pop the raditor cap and put your positive lead off your voltmeter in the coolant and the other end to a chassis ground with the engine running. any voltage over .03 indicates a ground problem.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026
