1995 Neon SOHC Error 42

OK, I am trying to get some ideas on how to fix the error #42.
I've changed both relays and disconnected the negative cable, pressed on brake pedal 3 times, spit over my left shoulder, then at midnight I turn my back to the Moon and pronounced "Neon Highline Rocks!" 3 times backwards, .... and error is still there.:crying:

As far as the deterioration of the cables I think there is something else, bc when I realized that the 2 cylinders were dead I managed to start and even drive the car to the garage (12 full yards!!!!)
Since then there was no heat in the engine at all. But I'll definitely keep the advise under consideration.

I am not in electricity at all so if there, in the harness, is something simple that I can ring out with my handy-dandy multi-func meter - toss me a few words.

Any ideas, please.

P.S. Yes, I am about to give-up and call to some local shops.:loser:

I dont have good news for you.
Looking at the codes I think a #42 is: "Automatic Shut-Down (ASD) relay circuit open or shorted". That could easily be a short or a broken wire buried in that wiring harness, unforturnately.
I defnitely would not describe repairing a bad/melted/corroded engine wiring harness as a 'simple' repair on a Neon. I myself would NOT try to fix one until I had removed it from the car, and I regard that as an unplesant chore of itself. Working in cold weather makes it worse.
But if someone pulls the engine out for any other reason, the engine wiring harness comes with it, and is then easy to remove. Fixing it is still a good bit of drudge work though.

These are all possible problems for the Code 42:
P1282 Fuel Pump Relay Control Circuit
P1388 ASD Relay Control Circuit
P1389 No ASD Relay Output Voltage At PCM
P0460 Fuel Level Sending Unit & Circuit, No Change Over Miles
P0462 Fuel Level Sending Unit Voltage Out Of Limits, Too Low
P0463 Fuel Level Sending Unit Voltage Out Of Limits, Too High

Hello my fellow enthuziasts.
Thank you for your time and efforts. I really mean it.

Ok, to finalize some painfull process that being pulled for over 1,5 month now I'll drop some optimistic ending here.
Yes, the engine can be pulled out alone and it was done for the main seal replacement.
One thing against Christler engineering design.
They should describe in the manual at very first pages WHERE and HOW MANY chain-links reguired/has to be hooked up in order to pull engine out and keep it balanced and stable.
When I was placing the engine back in there was a few short drops onto supporting woods just bc balance problem. And I was hanging the engine on 1 chain by 2 bolts.
Ok, its all in.

I placed everything back together as book says.
All the fluids, connectors, seals and gaskets.
First, it comes with an error #43.
I pulled the car to one of the nearest shops and they've told me that it either timing belt or bended valves again.

Ok, I pulled the thing back home, took head off, checked all the valves - all seems ok.
So at this time for just to make my life a bit more plesurable I connected exhoust manifold, temperature shields and steering fluid collector to the head ON THE BENCH. In this case it gets a bit heavier but no hassle of wrapping my body around the engine and create another extra joint on my right hand.

Done that.
Placed marks (manufactured) to the right places, rotated as prescribed in the manual and more, untill my wife comes out and says if I'll not stop rotate the engine over and over again with breakerbar she will call 911 or hospital (Aggressive Psyhiatric Disorder Department Responce Team). Ok, I stopped.

All these fluids back in, connectors checked, battery in, both ends are tight and firm. Ignition ON - ... error 42 and 35.
It's immediately comes to doubt that anything above us in existence. Or I'd been punished for something.
It clinched at starter but nothing after...

"Smoked" off of my truck just in case - result is the same, errors 35 and 42.
I replaced 2 relays (Fuel Pump and ASD), reconnect the cables - one error: #42.
OK, I made a few calls and decided to pull the thing to another shop next Monday to either fix it or let me be creative with the car and some IED (Improvised Explosive Device) in some safe place.
Yesterday one of my fellows stop by and we're surely get into long discussion about this particular problem and about motorcraft engineering overall.
Then, after long argument about "stomped" starter gear, he incidentally mentioned to reset the PCM. I quickly replied with number of times I recently did it (I think it was well over 10) but my comrade were still keeping pressure on the point.
Ok, I disconnect both cables again, just for his own sake.
Pass 2 minutes, connected all back in, ignition ON, ... its freaking started (!!!):lol2: :lol2: :lol2:
Fellows! Imagine my deep sorrow and embaressement before skies, my comrade, my wife, neighboor's dog, and occassional bugs, beatles, birds, iguanas and so forth...
The main thing was that positive connector which goes to the battery.
I cleaned it before, but only on the RIGHT side where the tightening nut is. So screwed part actually happened on the LEFT side, where the main cable connected to the positive.
After I twisted it a few times and blow that yellow dust(almost invisible) off, which collected in between square bolt head and round connector of the cable, things are started getting back to life for me again.
I slowly begin to realize that my wife is still pretty attractive and young, the sky is blue(with minor clouds and scatterd thunderstorm), and poor neighboor's doog is not that annoying creature that I was observing through my yugoslavian SKS optics so many times... And birds and ants and air was full of life...
So I took that stenley steel hook off of the garage ceiling, wrapped my lovely parfumed and oiled manila rope in perfect coils and store it for some other occassion.
The next stage is - paint.:naughty:

Thank you all.



to be continued...

Ahhhh....the dreaded loose battery connection. Sometimes we overlook the simple things in life only to make it more complicated.

OK, here comes another thing.
I was trying to recall when was the las time I replace the fuel filter on this car and has no memory recollection for this.
So I decided to by new one.
Ok, stop by at Advanced Auto, get "Purolator" - $22, and happily ran home.
Rolled under, disconnected (easy) all 3 links and started connecting new ones. Nope!:banghead:
The easiest day was yesterday! It is so true.
The main link that runs to the feeding line is not clamping in(???), no matter how much force I applied - it did not click into.
Ok, gave up, run to the store for replacement, get back under - the same shit (sorry).
I took the old one (keep it for some unknown reason) and hooked up in 3 minutes.
So I return the "Purolator" with grace and on my way back stop by at dealer where order whatever they have ($42).
I hope it'll click in. Otherwise I'd hook-up the old one.
Cheers to everyone!

I havent replaced the fuel filter on our family Neon yet, so YOU are now the teacher for ME. Let us know how it goes.

I was sort of figuring I would replace the fuel filter at the same time that I replaced the fuel pump; maybe when the car gets to 180,000 miles. Its at about 160,000 now.

Hey fellows!:cool:
I've got my fuel filter (Mopar) from dealer this morning and installation was a breeze.
So these "Purolators" are definitely had something wrong but may be its one cargo load.
So cart is running but there is something else. No more error codes but the engine kinda hick-up when it gets to shifting to the return gear. Also some hesitation at stops but when it stays on parking - its ok. Vibration is pretty visible, so I have to gat it back to my lovely local shop where the owner (May God grant all of his wishes) so generous. He charged me $47 for vacuuming and refill of A/C. But bc hi was kinda swamped he kindly ask if I bring the Neon after Christmas. So I'll do it and post whatever he will find in it. After all its drivable vehicle. So Icall a few paintshops and get somwhere in between $230 (Maaco) and ($500 Econo Paint.

Good to hear its driveable now. Some vibration is normal with any 4 cylinder engine that doesnt have an anti-vibration countershaft. (Neons were not made with countershafts, one of the reasons they were inexpensive.) The vibration is usually worse if the a.c. is on, and if you leave it in 'drive' at stop lights. It doesnt hurt anything though.
Have a lucky new year...

Ok, fellows.
Thank you all for ur participation.

The vibration.
I found another thing that I am infamous about. Switched these 2 lines at valve that hangs right on the left engine mount unit.(:loser::loser:)
I've looked in the book at supplied photograph, switched these lines in proper way. May be hick-ups will disappear (??)
Yes, I know who I am. No need to remind me.
.................................................. .............
Spotted some dripping (minimal) under axle’s box. Dealer said there is no gasket - silicon sealant (manually) only. So I am not that crazy at the moment, so I'll let it be for some time and see if it gets any worse.

Main seal is ok, no leaks so far.

Found another thing to fix and corresponded replacement part for it that I've ordered some years ago (...) which was peacefully and silently laying down at the bottom of my toolbox for all these years.
It is a resistor for heat/cool switches. I was wondering why blower is running at 2 speed only, then I was digging my box, found the part and rushed to the chapter 11 of the manual. So what happened is that harness connector (very side plug) has burned off, plastic was melted and corroded/rusted in years.
So I cut some short wire that I prepared for my HHO project (for Suburban), cold clamp-connected it, placed all back in place, and wha'da'u'know - it blows in 4 speed now.:smokin:

The painting.
Ok, so I called a few shops around and seem to me Maaco is the one who will paint the vehicle. Yes, I was pretty intimidated by all that negative avalanche of notes from public on the Internet. But, hey, after all, it's Neon, not Aston-Martin collectable.
Stopped by today, they quoted me on exterior, stripping/machine sanding, original color, 2 clear cotes over (promotional), no body work. for $585 with taxes and shmaxes and everything. They said it's going to be ready to drive at Tuesday the 30th.

The headlights.
I was trying to go with all the Internet-suggested ways of cleaning/polishing the surfaces.

NO WAY!!!
After so many years the plastic changed their “Translucent Crystal Clear” color to "Deep Fall Thick Yellow Appalachian Coalmine Mist". So screw it.

About a week ago I've ordered (eBay) some new headlamps (euro-style) for $114/4 pieces, no bulbs.

My pain and deep sorrow comes from their S&H charges - !!!!!!!!$45!!!!!!!! from, as they posted is CA, USA.:crying::crying::crying:
And with their 5 days "fund clearance" I suspect that shipment comes from territorial China or Mongolia.

I've ordered sometime earlier a pair of "Me-a-an, This Is Darn Bright And Really Sparking/Eye Burning Super-Pooper BlueishWite" bulbs via eBay. Comes in 4 business days and total damage was $14/pair(!!!!!) Go to nearest Autozone and compare on temperature and prices.
One thing though. It’s all Chinese production lines.

Happy New Year of Yellow Ox (comes in January 26th) to everyone and happy driving for many years!

To be continued…

Fellow enthusiasts,

I hope that everyone is in their best condition and mood.

Lovely Neon ran for 300 mls and produced "check engine" light.
Autozone tested and verdict: O2 sensor(????)

There is something that I'll have to say before it goes on my file permanently.
I purchased(yes, hold your laughs) one of these "gas savers" magnet. Attached right on that plastic line that connected to rail, secured it somehow and may be(:confused:) that's why there is an O2 service required.
I am not sure but if anyone had any experience with these magnets - please reply with ur thoughts, curses, illiterates, swears, etc...

Happy Miles to everyone!

P.S. The new paint is still on.

Sorry to say, the "gas saver' magnets dont do anything. Gasoline is non-magnetic. It wont have any effect on the engine operation in any way.
I cant recall what the 'code' is for an O2 sensor that is bad, but if all that is wrong is an O2 sensor that is over-age, you can continue to drive the car. There are two O2 sensors, one 'upstream' of the catylytic converter, and another one 'downstream' of it. We drove for a couple of months and a couple of thousand miles with the 'downstream' O2 sensor broken & not even connected. Our mileage on the highway dropped from 32 mpg to 28 mpg. When the weather got warmer and drier, I installed a new sensor, along with a new catylytic converter. (Old one was too rusty to save.)

Yes, Sir, I'd totally and unconditionally agree.
I've search a few days for such topic and get out of loop with mixed feelings.
I'd leave it for sometime and then will disconnect - will see if there any difference noticeable.

Ok, now its time to get back to headlamps.
The car was brought back home last week-end and I started on it on last Saturday. It is really easy to replace the whole thing and I am sure installed these chinese "xtreme" super-pooper brightashell bulbs, then happily pulled the lever, and .... one bulb is dead.
Does anyone feel the heat when you reading this?:naughty::naughty::naughty:

I sent a note to that ebay shop, nothing so far.

Thankfully some clear bright bulbs was included with headlamps so the car now is where it's supposed to be and lights are shine and bright, new rubber trims as well.
Plus I bought one of these "blackness restoration" solution at Advanced AutoParts and have to admit - it really DOES works!!! Door handles look like new now.
I've spread on mirror covers(outside), spread and then wiped and it's like new, smudged all the rubber and hard plastic parts that exposed to outside with that solution. After first time it was not so obvious but after second application its very "new" looking.

Happy miles to everyone!!