da vs ef rear lca

so i upgraded after a year to disc brakes but ive encounter more negative camber since install the rear disc brakes. my question is if the da integra lca are short the the ef ones. this is also being coupled with a saggy tein suspension which is getting replace but thats besides the fact.

wouldnt' a saggy suspension cause positive camber?

no when its starts to sag or when yo ustart going lower yo uget more negative camber. when you start going higer or adjusting the camber out u get positive. idk why its doing it though. but do you know if the aftermarket light weight lca are shorter so accomidate lowering and rims and such like skunk2 or blox.

I also did said swap, installed new Tein s-techs w/ Hp's,and after market ED lower control arms. now i belive my Hp's are blown and my rear has always looked lower than the front since the new suspension, but cant remember if it looked that way after the brake swap. i kinda always blamed it on the lower control arms, but i matched them up to the stock pieces and they are the same geometry. mmmmm.

The DA being LONGER would cause more negative camber. Which I think they do just slightly. But all the aftermarket arms are standard civic length.

so in other words i mscrew ha ha. i jsut gotta raise my car up and so on.

But all the aftermarket arms are standard civic length.
No, they're not. You can get them in a shorter version as well, to take up for lowered cars. I almost bought them, they were $100 more, and I think 12mm shorter.

Just get some washers and slightly longer bolts from ace or home depot.. the washers will stick your upper control arms out farther and help correct for the neg camber.

well bolts a washer only get me so far. what i failed to mention is that im also rubbing so i kinda need to bring the bottoms in alittle if i can plus i wanna use lightweight parts.

well bolts a washer only get me so far. what i failed to mention is that im also rubbing so i kinda need to bring the bottoms in alittle if i can plus i wanna use lightweight parts.



Then you have in your mind that you want something like these,

http://www.erzperformance.com/v/vspfiles/photos/LCHD02-3-2.jpg


Right?

You can order them to help offset the negative camber, to a point. You just need to find the size you want.

well i hope skunk2 offers a set cause im not gonna use a cheap set liek those anymore the bushings get torn to hell in less then a year. besides skunk2 parts look sexy ha ha jsut like my pro s coilovers i jsut installed.

Yeah, I'm reasonably sure that S2 has them in several offset sizes, or at least in one offset.

As far as the cheap ones failing in the bushings, that's an easy fix... delrin is cheap, and works great for a replacement bushing, as does nylon and several types of polymeric compounds, all of which are cheap and easy to get. Nylon and Delrin are self lubricating though, which adds to the niceness for use as bushings... no squeaks.

well ill have to contact skunk2 after the holidays to check because my civic doesnt move until i track down a offset size of lca. cause in order the correct camber my wheel well would have to extend another 1/2 inch at least and even with a rolled lip id probably rub really bad.. so far blox is standard length i email skunk2, function 7, and k sport to see if they offer any offsets.

would not a different offset, upset the trailing arm postion? like lets say, toe. What size rims are you using? You might want to consider chosing rims w/ a different offset. Im not sure what that would be.

The trailing arms have toe adjustment. Your going to need an alignment anyway.

well i will need an alignment any how but im using a 16 and im really wishing i wouldve gone 15 now. ive had the set for about 3 years now but never had a big problems until the disk brakes ect.

If you're using the correct tire sizes, the difference between 15's and 16's wouldn't even be noticeable.

They'd have the same approximate dimensions, in other words.

So if you're running a 205/40R16, that's 22.5 inches diameter, vs. 195/50R15 with a 22.7 inch diameter. (Yes, that's correct... the 15" tire is 2/10" taller).

So, while the 16's are 10mm wider (tire) the 15's are 2/10" (5.08mm) taller. The difference is negligible at best.

The width difference is a non-issue as well, since the 15" rims are most likely 7" wide, just like the 16's. 10mm (Tire width difference) is only 3/8".

so i actually did a good thing then to have what i have. hmm well any how so far no company actually sells a shorter/offset lca so i guess im stuck doing things with a camber and toe kit.

Roll your fenders and you will never have a problem with a tire that wide.

Hell im about to shoehorn 225/45/15 into my wheel wells.. now that's going to be a bit touchy..its alot of meat for a civic.

I'm running 17's with 205/40R17 and fully adjustable upper camber kicked out perfectly level with no rubbing problems - rolling the fenders is the best and easiest way to go.

sorry i'm late....

first off, anybody ever consider using the civic trailing arm? :thinkerg: Yup, yup....swap over the parts.

I know for a fact the front control arm that helps stablize the actual trailing arm is different than the civic. Therefore we ALWAYS use the civic trailing arm and swap over the disc conversion

this public servic announcement brought to you by your in house swap shop :pimp:

The toe compensator arm? When I put mine on the alignment rack after swapping the RTA the only thing that was spot on was the toe, it was perfect.

I suck at tech terms.

all I know is swap stuff over to civic trailing arm and troubles will be solved

I suck at tech terms.

all I know is swap stuff over to civic trailing arm and troubles will be solved


The only things you need to swap, are the items pointed at with the red arrows. Is that what you are talking about?

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/577P1010715.jpg

What you're saying is to swap the hub assembly rather than the trailing arm and all, right?

This is what I was always initially told - except the 4 bolts holding it on can be a complete pain in the unmentionables, so it's normally easier to just swap the trailing arm and keep your original alignment hardware (compensator and control arm)

The trailing arms are all the same length, so unless the mounts are different location on the trailing arm for the LCA and compensator (the thing you put washers behind), you won't have an alignment issue with using X trailing arm with your own alignment hardware.

Oh - except wagons.. nothing is the same on those.

EDIT - I may have terminology mixed up too... I believe that I meant to put upper control arm there instead of compensator arm. The compensator arm is the piece at the very front of the trailing arm, in front of the TA bushing.