1994 3.1L Century Electrical Problem
PV13
12-14-2008, 10:18 PM
Hello, My son is having problems with his car needing to by jump started after one day of sitting. He has replaced the battery, and the Generator (alternator) but to no avail. There are 3 codes in the CPU P1403 P1404 P1405 which refer to the EGR senors. Does this model in 1994 have a voltage regulator separate from the Generator or is it inside the Generator? Need Help Thank you!
oldblu65
12-18-2008, 11:11 PM
Your alternator has an internal regulator .When you replaced your battery , were the cables corroded ? You should have the cables checked , maybe replaced ? I don't have a " code chart " so I can't tell you their meaning , but most auto parts stores ( autozone , advance , etc. ) should be able to scan your car and interpret the codes for you at no cost . Good Luck ! Let us know what you find out !
Airjer_
12-19-2008, 12:09 AM
If it goes dead after sitting than there is a possibility of a draw, which means something is on that should not be on and its draining the battery over night. You best best is seeking a professional opinion especially If you are not familiar with automotive electrical. If there is a draw an experienced tech will be able to nail the source in under an hour!!
discnik
12-19-2008, 02:19 AM
The P140#= EGR test failed- The PCM expects to see engine speed drop as each of the three EGR solenoids are cycled on during rapid deceleration.
Test: Apply a ground to turn on EGR solenoid, engine speed must drop. Check for battery voltage on pink wire, EGR solenoid power, at EGR. If the voltage is low, check the in-line 10 amp fuse for the EGR solenoid. If power and control signals are normal and the engine speed does not drop, remove EGR and check for plugged EGR passages or bad EGR.
To test for voltage draw: Rmove negative battery cable from battery place a test light, using jumper wires with alligator clips, between the negative cable and the battery negative terminal.
If test light illuminates there is a draw in one of the vehicle circuits.
NOTE: After the door is closed the test light will stay illuminated because of the "theater(delay) module" for the interior dome light. If equipped. Allow 30 - 40 seconds for this to cycle off.
If test light is still illuminated pull each fuse one at a time from the fuse panels.
Make sure the doors are closed and wait the alloted time to see if that fuse's cicuit is the one with the short.
If you go through each fuse and still the test light did not go out after pulling a fuse, it is possible that there is more than one circuit with a short.
Had that happen on a Grand Marquis. Had 5 different circuits with a short only found that out after I pulled all fuses at once and started replacing one at a time. NO FUN !
Test: Apply a ground to turn on EGR solenoid, engine speed must drop. Check for battery voltage on pink wire, EGR solenoid power, at EGR. If the voltage is low, check the in-line 10 amp fuse for the EGR solenoid. If power and control signals are normal and the engine speed does not drop, remove EGR and check for plugged EGR passages or bad EGR.
To test for voltage draw: Rmove negative battery cable from battery place a test light, using jumper wires with alligator clips, between the negative cable and the battery negative terminal.
If test light illuminates there is a draw in one of the vehicle circuits.
NOTE: After the door is closed the test light will stay illuminated because of the "theater(delay) module" for the interior dome light. If equipped. Allow 30 - 40 seconds for this to cycle off.
If test light is still illuminated pull each fuse one at a time from the fuse panels.
Make sure the doors are closed and wait the alloted time to see if that fuse's cicuit is the one with the short.
If you go through each fuse and still the test light did not go out after pulling a fuse, it is possible that there is more than one circuit with a short.
Had that happen on a Grand Marquis. Had 5 different circuits with a short only found that out after I pulled all fuses at once and started replacing one at a time. NO FUN !
Airjer_
12-19-2008, 09:53 AM
A test light is not an accurate way of determining if a draw is present. There have been plenty of times I have had draws of less than .050 amps and the test light still illuminated. Since anything under 50 milliamps is acceptable it is wise to use a DVOM to accurately measure the actual current flow.
Who knows, you may have been in good shape after you pulled the second fuse but since you thought there was a problem because the test light was still illuminated you could very well have spent a lot of extra time for nothing!
Who knows, you may have been in good shape after you pulled the second fuse but since you thought there was a problem because the test light was still illuminated you could very well have spent a lot of extra time for nothing!
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