I Think She's Dying

:uhoh:

Hey all, long time no see..well my 1995 Cav has over 200,000 miles on her 2.2L engine. The other morning on my way to work..she just lost power..slow acceleration and won't go over 20 going up a hill..the trans seems to pull fine..but i have to listen to the engine and come off the gas for her to shift properly. Took off the catalytic convertor and cleaned it out..helped a little but not much..Check engine light is on..she is idling rough..no overheating yet. BTW had a radiator leak a few weeks ago and poured some stop leak into the reservoir:uhoh: could this be a result of that?

Any input is much appreciated

get the CEL read, that will probably lead you right to the cause. A sluggish car could just need a tune up... plugs, wires, filters... etc.

I'm going to a mechanic after work who said he would check it out for me..I'll keep you posted..thanks for your response

I would suspect the catalytic converter. Have you ever changed it. My second converter started rattling and suddenly about a week later I lost most power...I was on the interstate and could barely do 50 mph. I went straight to an exhaustplace and had it changed for $100. She's running fine now.

Get someone to rev the car and see how much exhaust is coming out the back.

Apparently there is something wrong with the computer in my car. no one has been able to pulll the codes off of it..any suggestions?

Sounds like the Computer crapped out. which sent the car into 'limp mode'. which would explain the lack of power, and you should also be getting worse gas mileage. go to a junkyard and see if they have any used ones you can pick up cheap, otherwise a new one will cost big bucks.

Went to AAA they pulled the codes..a 43 for knock sensor or wiring and a 45 for rich exhaust which comes from the guy taking the catalytic convertor out..and puttin it back in..

Ok so I'm thinking it may be my speed senor or my PCM..any thoughts? If it's the PCM how much do they run and where can you buy them?

removing and installing the cat wont make you're car run rich. the o2 that reads rich/lean is before the cat... the secondary o2 sensor reads catalyst efficiency. and the knock sensor will explain why youre running rich and have no power.... if you throw a knock sensor code. it will put the car in limp mode.
when in limp mode, your car retards timing about 3 degrees and make youre car run borderline flooding rich, which will KILL your power and gas mileage. get the knock sensor fixed and i bet your problem will be fixed.

removing and installing the cat wont make you're car run rich. the o2 that reads rich/lean is before the cat... the secondary o2 sensor reads catalyst efficiency. and the knock sensor will explain why youre running rich and have no power.... if you throw a knock sensor code. it will put the car in limp mode.
when in limp mode, your car retards timing about 3 degrees and make youre car run borderline flooding rich, which will KILL your power and gas mileage. get the knock sensor fixed and i bet your problem will be fixed.


I love you GreenBlurr93 :rofl: ok my next question I've priced the part and it's 24.99 the real problem is how to locate it and how much would someone charge me to change it..basically how hard is it to get to or is it something that I may be able to do myself?

hmm thats a question i cannot answer as every car locates them different. some are real easy to get to some are a pain. a shop shouldnt charge more than an hour or two of labor, so you're lookin in the range of 100-150 or so, if you bring them the part

hmm thats a question i cannot answer as every car locates them different. some are real easy to get to some are a pain. a shop shouldnt charge more than an hour or two of labor, so you're lookin in the range of 100-150 or so, if you bring them the part


Thanks I'll keep you posted when repair is made..in between paydays so it'll have to wait until Thursday..driving as little as possible just to work and home..until then

replaced knock sensor..got a little more power but she is still weak..taking her to a friend so he can do a compression test on the engine..will keep you posted

did the CEL go away?? the PCM may need to be reset.

How do you reset the PCM?

Still havent been able to rectify this problem. Still setting code 43 haven't been able to go over 50 for the last two weeks. I replaced the knock sensor but didn't gain any more power and the code is still there..

If my engine was dying I would think there would be smoke or something..

I need help...short of spending 180 for a full diagnostic..which i may end up doing eventually

Code 43 ESC module or other sensor wiring short..this is what the code says...HELP

Hmm... sounds like you need to look into that module, and if its still good, then start the ever so fun task of tracing wires looking for a short in the system... good luck... doesnt sound like its going to be an easy problem to fix.

I had a simliar experience with my 97 cav, the loss of power and rough idle turned out to be my coil packs. One went bad and I was running on only 2 cylinders (huge loss of power). Pop the hood and pull a plug wire off WHILE it is running, if no change in idle that cyl probably isnt firing, if big change or stalls put the wire back on and start over with the next wire. Easy way to find out if you are running on all 4 or not.
And also I would replace the catalytic converter if it turns out to be your coil packs, because running on 2 cyl. for long time will ruin the cat. converter, that and 120k+ miles its about due. I learned that the hard way :(

I have minimal knowledge with this model of car but I have alot of mechanical experience. It's my understanding that code 43 is for the ESC (electronic spark control) module, not the knock sensor. The ESC and the knock sensor work in conjunction to control spark but they are not the same thing. Your PCM is not lying to you, if it says it is having a problem with the ESC, then replace the ESC. The code 45 (rich exhaust) is being caused by the bad ESC and is not due to the catalytic converter being removed and replaced. Replace the ESC and this should solve both problems.

Again, I have minimal knowledge with the Chevy Cavalier, so I could be wrong. It just seems to me that you are replacing parts that have little to do with the source of the problem, so I just thought I'd add my $.02. and hope that it helps.