Car Keeps Shutting Down While Driving
ameekins82
12-03-2008, 07:27 AM
Someone please help!
My car starts right up, perfectly. Then, I can drive it up to a few miles, then, all the sudden it goes out. The radio and car lights stay on, however, I'm unable to give the car any gas to keep accelarating. In order to get it going again, I put the car in park and restart it. It starts up perfectly then I can go a bit more before it dies again. Then I just repeat the restart process.
As the car starts to die, the low oil level light comes on. (the one that looks like a genie lamp) Thats how I know its going to die. Also, my power steering goes out.
I recently had work done on the car. I had a new alternator, a new MAP sensor, a new PV kit, and oil and raditator fluid leads fixed. I have put in some "dry gas" to try and solve this problem, but after a couple days it hasnt worked.
Please help!
My car starts right up, perfectly. Then, I can drive it up to a few miles, then, all the sudden it goes out. The radio and car lights stay on, however, I'm unable to give the car any gas to keep accelarating. In order to get it going again, I put the car in park and restart it. It starts up perfectly then I can go a bit more before it dies again. Then I just repeat the restart process.
As the car starts to die, the low oil level light comes on. (the one that looks like a genie lamp) Thats how I know its going to die. Also, my power steering goes out.
I recently had work done on the car. I had a new alternator, a new MAP sensor, a new PV kit, and oil and raditator fluid leads fixed. I have put in some "dry gas" to try and solve this problem, but after a couple days it hasnt worked.
Please help!
richtazz
12-03-2008, 11:38 AM
Welcome to AF.
It would help if you would include the year, engine size and trim level (SE, GT, GTP) of your car.
It would help if you would include the year, engine size and trim level (SE, GT, GTP) of your car.
mike561
12-03-2008, 07:00 PM
Does the TCS light come on also? had the same symptoms on mine and replacement of the crank position sensor fixed all
ameekins82
12-04-2008, 03:54 PM
I apologize. It is a 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix 3800 V6.
turtle23col
12-04-2008, 11:22 PM
I am having a problem with my '79 stalling on the highway.
I have done extensive work on the fuel system and the carb..
The problem persists. The short term solution is to shut the car
off for 20 minutes.This allows the car to motor for 30 minutes.
Then the cycle repeates. I, also am looking for a solution.
I have done extensive work on the fuel system and the carb..
The problem persists. The short term solution is to shut the car
off for 20 minutes.This allows the car to motor for 30 minutes.
Then the cycle repeates. I, also am looking for a solution.
doctorhrdware
12-04-2008, 11:56 PM
Is it possible that the crankshaft position sensor is going bad.
vamc
12-06-2008, 01:17 AM
I think it could be a coil b/c if it heats up to much, it will shut down the engine so no damage is done to the engine or itself. What do you guys/girls think?
CrazyHorst
12-14-2008, 09:12 AM
This sounds like classic fuel pump symptoms...coupled with the model year and likely age of your vehicle.
If it has internal problems due to age there may be some micro cavitation generated within the pump unit itself which causes it to lose prime.
Sometimes the symptoms are magnified with a nearly empty fuel tank as the pump has a slightly longer distance to "pull" the fuel upwards against gravity. With a full tank it should be completely submerged and the issue may mitigate, although not guaranteed to do so.
Fuel pressure is a tricky bugaboo, on one hand its easy to connect a mechanical gauge to the Schraeder-type valve on the fuel rail and thread it out under the hood to appear next to the windshield wipers so you can view as you drive. On the other hand, the vehicle has no self-diagnosing capabilities for low fuel system pressure and so you could get no diagnostic faults or a fault related to something completely different.
If it has internal problems due to age there may be some micro cavitation generated within the pump unit itself which causes it to lose prime.
Sometimes the symptoms are magnified with a nearly empty fuel tank as the pump has a slightly longer distance to "pull" the fuel upwards against gravity. With a full tank it should be completely submerged and the issue may mitigate, although not guaranteed to do so.
Fuel pressure is a tricky bugaboo, on one hand its easy to connect a mechanical gauge to the Schraeder-type valve on the fuel rail and thread it out under the hood to appear next to the windshield wipers so you can view as you drive. On the other hand, the vehicle has no self-diagnosing capabilities for low fuel system pressure and so you could get no diagnostic faults or a fault related to something completely different.
cn1151
12-24-2008, 07:53 AM
:banghead: “Welcome to my nightmare” Where to begin??? I bought my 97 Grand Prix SE for my Daughter from a “friend” for $500.00. I just wanted it to hold her over until I could repair her other car or buy her a new one. I was told there was a “fuel problem”. When I get the car home I find the Fuel pressure regulator is disconnected. Wow that was easy!!!
NOT!!! No luck the car stalled at HWY speed on my Daughter and left her stranded. It always restarted after a short rest and got her back home. At this time there were no codes. After some testing and reading a lot online I replaced The MAF sensor. Then the MAP Sensor codes started popping up so I replaced that. Codes for map gone but no improvement in drivability. To shorten the story I replaced the O2 sensors the Plenum gaskets, a lot of bad Vacuum fittings, Cleaned the throttle body, replaced the bad PVC valve, the bad valve cover gaskets, power steering pump, Crank and Cam sensor, And bought some new scanner software. None of which fixed my problem. I’m getting a lot of P0171 codes. And on my last test drive I ran for A good 100 miles before it quit on me. I was looking at my scanner on the way to the service road when it started and it looked like my 02’s flat-lined as it chugged along on the HWY. When I checked the codes it gave me a P0131 and the good old P0171. When I got home I removed the throttle body and looked into the plenum and it was soaked with coolant. I think that was what is causing my 02’s to go nuts and also causing my P0300 and P0171 codes and Killing my motor. Remember all the gaskets where replaced. I would recommend if you don’t have a good scan tool that you find a “Good” Mechanic (Good Luck) and get the car on a scanner so you can watch some live data. And if you find this “Mechanic” and he can use a Diagnostic O’Scope he or she can save you a lot of wasted money on part swapping. If you can’t find a Mechanic start with vacuum leaks. Then look for oil and coolent in the plenum. Check the PVC The coils for good resistance and the wires for signs of arcing. Look at the plugs and replace if needed. The MAF also seems to be a big problem. Try disconnecting it and giving it a test drive (this will through a code). Check fuel pressure with and without the vacuum line. And test vacuum with a vacuum gauge. If you don’t have the test equipment. Buy it or have the shop do the checking then do the work yourself and save some$$$$$$$$. Let me know how it goes.
Good Luck
Rich
NOT!!! No luck the car stalled at HWY speed on my Daughter and left her stranded. It always restarted after a short rest and got her back home. At this time there were no codes. After some testing and reading a lot online I replaced The MAF sensor. Then the MAP Sensor codes started popping up so I replaced that. Codes for map gone but no improvement in drivability. To shorten the story I replaced the O2 sensors the Plenum gaskets, a lot of bad Vacuum fittings, Cleaned the throttle body, replaced the bad PVC valve, the bad valve cover gaskets, power steering pump, Crank and Cam sensor, And bought some new scanner software. None of which fixed my problem. I’m getting a lot of P0171 codes. And on my last test drive I ran for A good 100 miles before it quit on me. I was looking at my scanner on the way to the service road when it started and it looked like my 02’s flat-lined as it chugged along on the HWY. When I checked the codes it gave me a P0131 and the good old P0171. When I got home I removed the throttle body and looked into the plenum and it was soaked with coolant. I think that was what is causing my 02’s to go nuts and also causing my P0300 and P0171 codes and Killing my motor. Remember all the gaskets where replaced. I would recommend if you don’t have a good scan tool that you find a “Good” Mechanic (Good Luck) and get the car on a scanner so you can watch some live data. And if you find this “Mechanic” and he can use a Diagnostic O’Scope he or she can save you a lot of wasted money on part swapping. If you can’t find a Mechanic start with vacuum leaks. Then look for oil and coolent in the plenum. Check the PVC The coils for good resistance and the wires for signs of arcing. Look at the plugs and replace if needed. The MAF also seems to be a big problem. Try disconnecting it and giving it a test drive (this will through a code). Check fuel pressure with and without the vacuum line. And test vacuum with a vacuum gauge. If you don’t have the test equipment. Buy it or have the shop do the checking then do the work yourself and save some$$$$$$$$. Let me know how it goes.
Good Luck
Rich
rev2red
12-24-2008, 11:16 AM
could be computer terminals/connections, and cps sounds right would do the same thing
richtazz
12-24-2008, 11:45 AM
Is the check engine light on? If so, post the stored codes.
Your problem sounds like either a bad crank position sensor or fuel pump to me. It could also be a bad ICM (ignition control module). Testing for fuel pressure, spark and injector pulse are required to narrow it down.
Your problem sounds like either a bad crank position sensor or fuel pump to me. It could also be a bad ICM (ignition control module). Testing for fuel pressure, spark and injector pulse are required to narrow it down.
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