Crank Pully HELP!
ev0lution7
03-19-2003, 06:09 PM
ok my water pump is TOAST its pouring water out like its gotta piss like a race horse anyways i need to get the crank pully off and its not comming off i've tried wrenches in the pully to the block to hold it still i've tried jamming a prybar in the flywheel teath but this thing wont budge AT ALL i've broken lots of tools JUST on this trying to get it off i need some suggestions fast
90civicrider
03-19-2003, 06:17 PM
If you have access to a impact gun that might work.
If you dont, I'd suggest getting the right tool for the job. I can't remember the name of the tool that get's that bolt off, but if you goto a automotive store, tell them your situation and they will hook you up.
If you dont, I'd suggest getting the right tool for the job. I can't remember the name of the tool that get's that bolt off, but if you goto a automotive store, tell them your situation and they will hook you up.
Jmunk
03-19-2003, 06:34 PM
I would take it to a shop with an impact and have them zip it off or.....get a breaker bar and put a pipe on the end of it and have a friend hold down the brakes or wedge something in the teeth of the flywheel.
ev0lution7
03-20-2003, 05:30 AM
well you see i've tried the flywheel thing....... tried the brake and 1st gear thing i've tried my impact gun (its just a crasftman cheepy one like a 90lb gun) nothing is working.... maybe if i drop some cord in the #1 cycl BTDC?? then crank it to TDC maybe that would lock it up?? any other suggestions??
sastanley
03-20-2003, 06:09 AM
Originally posted by ev0lution7
maybe if i drop some cord in the #1 cycl BTDC?? then crank it to TDC maybe that would lock it up?? any other suggestions??
Huh? :huh: - what does that mean?
I hate D-series crank pulley bolts :bloated:
maybe if i drop some cord in the #1 cycl BTDC?? then crank it to TDC maybe that would lock it up?? any other suggestions??
Huh? :huh: - what does that mean?
I hate D-series crank pulley bolts :bloated:
sciamop
03-20-2003, 06:09 AM
The crank pulley bolt calls for 150+ lbs of torque (might be even tighter after years/thousands of miles). Here's what I do I on the Supra:
-- Since the engine rotates clockwise (on the Supra; check honda's rotation 1st), I put the breaker bar with extension (aka good strong pipe) on the crank bolt to the right ( illustration: *\ ) with the bar resting FIRMLY on the ground (preferably cement/concrete NOT muddy dirt). You do not want your breaker bar moving AT ALL.
-- Clear the area of civilians.
-- Make sure car is in neutral and click the starter over for a split second. This should break the bolt loose. If not, repeat procedure.
Warning: if your starter or battery is weak, this won't work. I'd resort to a breaker bar with l o n g pipe and a screwdriver handle wedged in the flywheel... You might also need a friend if you weigh less than 150lbs...
Todd
91 Civic SI
89 Supra Turbo
-- Since the engine rotates clockwise (on the Supra; check honda's rotation 1st), I put the breaker bar with extension (aka good strong pipe) on the crank bolt to the right ( illustration: *\ ) with the bar resting FIRMLY on the ground (preferably cement/concrete NOT muddy dirt). You do not want your breaker bar moving AT ALL.
-- Clear the area of civilians.
-- Make sure car is in neutral and click the starter over for a split second. This should break the bolt loose. If not, repeat procedure.
Warning: if your starter or battery is weak, this won't work. I'd resort to a breaker bar with l o n g pipe and a screwdriver handle wedged in the flywheel... You might also need a friend if you weigh less than 150lbs...
Todd
91 Civic SI
89 Supra Turbo
sastanley
03-20-2003, 06:11 AM
Unfortunately dude..that is half the issue...D-series motors rotate counter-clockwise...the bolts only get tighter as we drive the car :( - I think that is why they are so difficult to get apart
sciamop
03-20-2003, 07:14 AM
So put the breaker bar under the frame (make sure it's not near the rack, etc) on the right side of the engine... IIRC, the x-member would be a perfect blocking point.
Todd
Todd
ev0lution7
03-20-2003, 07:49 AM
that wont work
no matter what our engines rotate counter clockwise :( so it would end up tighten the bolt :( any other suggestions how about that tool?? for getting off pully bolts??
no matter what our engines rotate counter clockwise :( so it would end up tighten the bolt :( any other suggestions how about that tool?? for getting off pully bolts??
crxlvr
03-20-2003, 08:50 AM
there are special tools that are made to remove the crank pully bolt.
here it is from sears
http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@1544978558.104 8179693@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccgjadchkmhfigecehgcemgdffmdflh.0&vertical=SEARS&bidsite=&pid=00947626000
here it is from sears
http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@1544978558.104 8179693@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccgjadchkmhfigecehgcemgdffmdflh.0&vertical=SEARS&bidsite=&pid=00947626000
ev0lution7
03-20-2003, 09:02 AM
that is for getting it off the crank once the bolt is off :( not to remove the bolt
sciamop
03-20-2003, 11:10 AM
You're right wow, that sucks. Big pipe time.
ev0lution7
03-21-2003, 01:02 AM
ok i've tried all that and nothing is working i'm running out of time and options i got a bigger impact gun and still it wont come off its a 350+tq gun so i know its pretty good but my compressor runs out of air kinda fast but still i've gotten off the same kinda bolts with the same compressor/ gun combo so i just dont know i'm really tired of mess's with the stupid pully any more suggestions?? maybe buy that special tool???
sciamop
03-21-2003, 07:31 AM
Have you tried harsh language? ;)
-- wedge a screwdriver handle in the flywheel
-- Round up 4 or 5 friends (feed them beforehand)
-- have them all hang (feet off ground!!) on a 8 foot long pipe w/ breaker bar
If it STILL doesn't come off, take it to a garage.
Todd
-- wedge a screwdriver handle in the flywheel
-- Round up 4 or 5 friends (feed them beforehand)
-- have them all hang (feet off ground!!) on a 8 foot long pipe w/ breaker bar
If it STILL doesn't come off, take it to a garage.
Todd
crxlvr
03-21-2003, 07:46 AM
your prolly making it tigther this whole time, try reversing the gun and spinning it off.
seth 90DX/ZC
03-21-2003, 08:35 AM
Originally posted by sastanley
Unfortunately dude..that is half the issue...D-series motors rotate counter-clockwise...the bolts only get tighter as we drive the car :( - I think that is why they are so difficult to get apart
NO! Take it off just like you would take off any other bolt! Left man go left~! Also you might want to try a pully puller after you get the bolt out. It took me 3 hours to get mine off the ZC, 3 hours with a 500lb impact wrench and I have a compressor that puts out more than that.... Sooo, good luck man.
Unfortunately dude..that is half the issue...D-series motors rotate counter-clockwise...the bolts only get tighter as we drive the car :( - I think that is why they are so difficult to get apart
NO! Take it off just like you would take off any other bolt! Left man go left~! Also you might want to try a pully puller after you get the bolt out. It took me 3 hours to get mine off the ZC, 3 hours with a 500lb impact wrench and I have a compressor that puts out more than that.... Sooo, good luck man.
4-Door Flunky
03-21-2003, 10:31 AM
You gotta try everything. First, spray some penetrating fluid around there, and give it a few minutes to soak in. Even WD-40 will work. The molecules of the bolt and the surrounding material have interlocked, and that'll help ease things.
Now, this next technique is called, "Warming it up". That means beat it with a hammer. You don't want to screw up the bolt where your socket won't work anymore. You do want to beat on it, and hard, using something like a half-inch extension. This beating process will help stop that interlocking process.
There's one more technique, requiring extreme care, and that's heating it up with the torch, but seriously, don't burn up your car or yourself.
Then try the 8-foot cheater pipe over your ratchet with three friends standing on it. You should be able to get a socket onto the bolt, and have an extension going into it, sticking out of that little hole in the plastic piece in the wheel well. You may need to get a piece of wood just the perfect length to stick underneath the head of the ratchet, to keep it from falling off and bending the ears off the nut while you're standing on it.
If none of that works, take it to a shop. I do recommend using a Snap-On socket and ratchet. Or at least a Craftsman, so if it breaks, you can replace it. Try to use a 6-point, so you don't ruin that bolt.
Flunky
PS-I spent three days on one of these on a Mazda 626. I had to get the 10-foot cheater pipe, and then I dangled from it, yanking my whole body up and done. Neighbors loved it.
Now, this next technique is called, "Warming it up". That means beat it with a hammer. You don't want to screw up the bolt where your socket won't work anymore. You do want to beat on it, and hard, using something like a half-inch extension. This beating process will help stop that interlocking process.
There's one more technique, requiring extreme care, and that's heating it up with the torch, but seriously, don't burn up your car or yourself.
Then try the 8-foot cheater pipe over your ratchet with three friends standing on it. You should be able to get a socket onto the bolt, and have an extension going into it, sticking out of that little hole in the plastic piece in the wheel well. You may need to get a piece of wood just the perfect length to stick underneath the head of the ratchet, to keep it from falling off and bending the ears off the nut while you're standing on it.
If none of that works, take it to a shop. I do recommend using a Snap-On socket and ratchet. Or at least a Craftsman, so if it breaks, you can replace it. Try to use a 6-point, so you don't ruin that bolt.
Flunky
PS-I spent three days on one of these on a Mazda 626. I had to get the 10-foot cheater pipe, and then I dangled from it, yanking my whole body up and done. Neighbors loved it.
ev0lution7
03-21-2003, 02:23 PM
well last night about 2am we got it off we stuck the breaker bar on it with a cheater bar and hit the starter a few times and then we stuck the impact on it and BLAM it came right off in like 2 sec then everything went pretty smooth from there... i got my fan working (wires were cut) then i put some water in and blam fan works and holds water and it runs like a champ :) only NO NO i did was i put the same OLD ass Timming belt back on but then again this is my temp motor (DPFI) for my DOHC ZC :) that will kick ass hopefully i will have it in in the next month :)
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