How do i remove stock cd player?

for my 99 lincoln nav

-so i already bought the "U" device but they keep sliding out. i have the alpine premium sound system and someone said that there might be something securing it elsewhere. any ideas? 99 lincoln nav w/premium alpine sound system

Push the U tool into the holes until you hear or feel a "click" then pull straight out on the faceplate to remove the radio.

thats what i read, but i push them all the way in, pretty sure i feel a click. have u tried removing an alpine dash from a 99 or similar navigator? it feels like there is something else securing it.

http://installdr.com/InstallDocs/FLM/PDF/356017.pdf

Maybe this may help you. Always look at the installdr website when you're stuck, it's helped me a lot in the past.

Edit: By the way, I'm usually good with taking things apart, and it took me quite some time to figure out how to get a ford radio out. If you're like me, once you get it out and see how the clips work you'll be like "Oooooooohhhhhh!" The key is to push the U tool in til it clicks. This click only "locks" the tool in place - it also lets you know you reached and properly engaged the clips. Then you push outward on both of the U tools, kind of like you're prying it. The holes on the faceplate will act as a fulcrum, and the ends of the U tools inside the radio will push inward to push the clips in.

With the clips fully depressed, the radio should slide forward with slight pulling. You should pull on the U tools as you still have them pushed outward to keep the clips down. You may need to "jiggle" it a bit. This is where having the proper tool helps a bit. If you have the U tools that click and lock into place, there's extra static friction that must be overcome before the tool disengages when pulling. If you're just using the "coat hangers," or if you didn't click them in, the only thing holding them in when you pull forward is the static friction caused by the force of you pulling outward on them.

naaa case closed i figured it out, something wasnt hitting just rite, but now its all good. i want to wire my home theater sub in there, but there are no rca wires. i have done this before so i have everything needed, except the slots. is there anyway else to hook it up or na?

-also, thx for the link

you need wire a LOC (line output convertor) in line with speaker outputs

naaa case closed i figured it out, something wasnt hitting just rite, but now its all good. i want to wire my home theater sub in there, but there are no rca wires. i have done this before so i have everything needed, except the slots. is there anyway else to hook it up or na?

No problem.

They make speaker level to line level converters. However, it's not a very efficient solution. You'll essentially be taking a line level, amplified to speaker level, reduced back to line level, and then amplified again by the sub's amp. This leaves a lot of potential for added noise and distortion. (Edit: oops, PaulD beat me to it)

If you're using a home theater sub, how is it powered? I imagine the sub needs mains power. Therefore you would also be using a power inverter. This method is also inefficient, because you'll be going from 12v DC to 120v AC back down to some DC voltage (probably around 40v) again in the sub's amp. I'd be surprised if the inverter can handle the power needed at peaks.

I don't think I understand fully what you're trying to do. But it doesn't seem like a good idea.

haha well its not the greatest idea, but its a something i call a budget. yes im running it off of a power inverter, 200w is its continuous power. it is able to power my 125w subwoofer efficiently and believe me, it can really move. ive done this setup before in my monte carlo, i just dont want to spend another $40 installing my alpine dash into this new car as im running on the said budget. mainly im trying to run this at a cheap cost.

will i just splice a "LOC" into one of the speaker wire and have it run from there? although then it would have my subwoofer trying to play much more frequencys, and even with its frequency turned down, will still be much more muddy sounding.

If you're using a home theater sub, the amp will most likely have a low-pass filter built into it. Most home theater amps have two knobs, the volume and the low-pass frequency. If this is the case with your sub, the extra high frequencies in the line level inputs will be filtered out before amplified anyway. This is because home theater subs are usually designed for connecting to either a dedicated LFE (low frequency effect) output on a receiver, or to regular speaker pre-outs on a receiver.

Even if your sub doesn't have an adjustable low pass filter, there is most likely a fixed low pass filter in the amp.

The LOC converter should have a very high resistance. I believe usually 1k to 10k ohms. When wired in parallel to a speaker, the overall drop in resistance should be negligible. However, the electricity is going to favor the path with the least resistance (the speakers). I've never used an LOC converter myself, but I'd be curious to know if you'll get lower than normal line level outputs from them when wired in parallel with speakers. I think it should be fine though, but again, I don't really know.

ahah, well then there is only one way to find out. i will look into it tomorrow or wednesday and post back on either results or progress.