2003 Grand Am hard to start when cold

My 2003 Grand Am is hard to start when cold. It doesn't seem to matter if it sits for 5 hrs or 20 hrs, it takes a few tries before it will start. The fuel pump was changed about a month ago. When the car is warm, there are no issues with starting and the car runs great weather hot or cold. It has about 110,000 km on it and has just start this problem

Any ideas what may be causing this?

What engine does you 03 have ??

I would check for the usual, vacuum leaks, clogged/dirty injectors, clogged fuel filter, bad plugs and or wires.

It has the 2.2L engine

I see you have mentioned Km I assume you live in Canada or somewhere where it is very cold, your car is 2003 and now is 2008, batteries usually last up to 5 years after that it is just a metter of time when you are going to stay somewhere on the parking lot unable to start. So if your battery is original replace it with new one and ask form more CCAs if you live in cold place. Also use 5w30 oil for better starts. Don't forget to check what Xero said also.....good luck

The car has a battery in it that is about a month old and has 5w30 oil in it. So far I have changed the plugs, Ignition Control Module. Check the injectors and fuel pump pressure but the problem still continues

:banghead:

how is your temperature gauge working?

how is your temperature gauge working?

seems to be working fine

Then your ECT sensor is ok, but if you want you can test it, you can find table with temp and resistances just Google it. But before that make sure all your battery cables are tight, engine ground good, starter terminals and cables clean and tight.

It could also be the IAC not functioning right due to a clogged passage in the TB. Might check that out too.

The temp sensor diagram 3100 mentioned is listed in the Tips and Maintenance (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=2148)sub forum.
Here's that
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=2148
And here is the IAC prcedure.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=663849

Finally got fed up and took the car to the garage. Turned out to be the spark control module. It has been running fine since that was changed

thanks for the help

That's great Ron!
But didnt you say in post #5 you replaced the ICM?!

good catch xi, plus the symptoms that he described do not indicate problems with icm, usually icm's could give you problems if they get too hot, not cold. :confused:

I have to agree with you guys

Well the problem has come back. I don't know what is doing it now and am lost. So far we have changed the
1. computer spark control module
2. coil pack
3. spark plugs
4. took IAC out and cleaned. Some carbon build up observered, haven"t replaced part though
5. battery was replaced in November
6. fuel pump was replaced in october

Should I replace the IAC. I am now completely lost and it is ovious to me the garage I took it to was lost also.

:banghead:

Hi Ron.
I would test the IAC before replacing it, they are not cheap around $65. Make sure the tip to base mounting flange is 1 1/8" too.
Here is a link that has the test procedure.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=663849

Also double check the vacuum line that behind the ICM/soil packs. Some times it gets loose or pops off and can suck air in causing these problems.
Wouldnt hurt to throw some injection clean in your gas tank, dirty(or icey from moisture) injectors can cause this too when its cold outside.

I knew that you will be back here soon, because something did not click right with your repair history, anyway the easiest way to see how your IAC works is just remowe IAC and whille it is connected tell somebody to turn inginion on and off you shoud see smooth movement in and out. Did you ever test you ECT sensor and compared it to the table of temp vs resistance. If ECT is telling your PCM wrong info about the engine temp lets say it tells pcm that engine is warmer than it is then pcm will not comand injectors to open long enough to alow more fuel for cold engine start.

I knew that you will be back here soon, because something did not click right with your repair history, anyway the easiest way to see how your IAC works is just remowe IAC and whille it is connected tell somebody to turn inginion on and off you shoud see smooth movement in and out. Did you ever test you ECT sensor and compared it to the table of temp vs resistance. If ECT is telling your PCM wrong info about the engine temp lets say it tells pcm that engine is warmer than it is then pcm will not comand injectors to open long enough to alow more fuel for cold engine start.

Thanks for the sugestions
Checked out the ECT sensor and compared it with the chart. Appears to be ok. Also checked the Intake Air temp sensor and it appears to be ok. Took out the IAC again and it doesn't move when the key is urned on so i have ordered a new one. I have my fingers crossed that this is the problem. $200 cdn :eek: for a new one..not cheap

With the new IAC the car is no different. I tried something different today. I tried to start the car but it would not. I then left the key on for about 12 minutes and then it started. The security light is on when you turn the key on but is not flashing. As soon as the car starts the car security light goes off. I have read that if the passlock system engages to stop the car from starting the car will not turn over. Is this right? I have also heard there was a recall on the ignition switch but cant find any info on it.
Anyways taking it to the pontiac Friday

I think I will stick to Ford from now on. I can see why GM is in the trouble that they are in

You did calibrate and set the IAC ?
After your IAC install you needed to turn the key "ON" for 10 seconds, then off for 10sec to reset the IAC. If this isnt done it would cause problems.

If you have a security(pk2) issue it'll crank but the injectors/plugs dont fire.

Thier was NOT a recall on ignition switches. I have heard speculation on the web to this nature, but its not true.

Good luck with your Ford decision!
I see just as many of these through the week as I do GM's or Chrysler's. Every model has its quarks, some more prevalent, some more persistant and costly. :2cents:

You did calibrate and set the IAC ?
After your IAC install you needed to turn the key "ON" for 10 seconds, then off for 10sec to reset the IAC. If this isnt done it would cause problems.

If you have a security(pk2) issue it'll crank but the injectors/plugs dont fire.

Thier was NOT a recall on ignition switches. I have heard speculation on the web to this nature, but its not true.

Good luck with your Ford decision!
I see just as many of these through the week as I do GM's or Chrysler's. Every model has its quarks, some more prevalent, some more persistant and costly. :2cents:

Took the car to the dealer and he tells me the computer had been set off for the passlock and the problem was with the ignition switch. He told me there had not been a recall for these ignition switches so I am having it replaced. He could not explain to me why the security light was not flashing. As far as the IAC goes I guess I didn't calibrate it right. The old IAC we took out defiently wasn't working right as it would act up sometimes while idling at a red light. It didn't do anything when the key was turned on.

All cars have there quirks. This one sometimes just seems to be worse than others. At least it doesn't have a timing belt to worry about.