206WRC progress thread (pics included)

Here's yet another Peugeot 206WRC project for the forum. This time it's the one driven by Timo Salonen (1985 world rally champion) in Neste Rally Finland in 2002.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/470424206real.jpg

Base kit is the original 206WRC Tour de Corse from Tamiya. Decals are from Renaissance and I'm going to use some detailparts from S27 sets.

Renaissance says that you can use their wheel set for gravel wheels, but their set (resin copy from Hasegawa wheels) has only four bolt hubs and 206 has five bolts... I decided to use RallyRaider's method and drill of the hubs from Hasegawa wheels and replace them with Tamiya hubs.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/904513206wheels1.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/342448206wheels.jpg

The front bumper panellines needed a little rescribing and filling to present correct ones for this car.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/345048206scribe.jpg

I detailed underbody by adding heat insulation to exhaust pipe and central tunnel. The exhaust pipe looks a bit too bright still, but I'm going to give it a little yellow heat staining in places and perhaps a coat of satin clear.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/337462206underbody.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/749093206underbodydetail.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/732874206exhaust.jpg

And finally some interior parts. Not much to tell about these, just some basic detailing was added.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/617127206interiorparts.jpg

Next on the to do -list are gravel shields for the body sides (I've started them a bit already, I'm using thin plastic film used with overhead projectors to do these).

Don't hold your breath while waiting for me to finish this as I can't be sure how long my inspiration will stay high;) I'll update this thread when I get something done...

-Mikko

Man!! Your works are awesome!

CWTF

:eek: :eek:

Darth Vader would say:

"Impressive, most impressive"

Great work!!

Thanks for showing us your work, especially the hub conversion....very useful to know....

I look forward to updates in this thread :)

:eek: You are scribing a MASTERPIECE!!

I didn't realise Timo Salonen was still rallying, albeit as a privateer.

Excellent work, the pug must be one of the most built models on this forum, its ggod to see it being made in an alternative livery.:)

Yes, very awsome. And that hub conversion is extremely useful...:D :D :D

Looking good.

man... that's some good stuff. I love the body of this car.

Nice to see someone else crazy enough to modify hubs like that. Although it will soon become unecessary for the Peugeots with the release of Tamiya's New Zealand 2002 kit.

Like the enhancements to the exhaust. How did you get the texture on the transmission tunnel? Looks fantastic.

I used Bare Metal Foil to build up the reinforced gravel shields. Much more maleable than OHP palstic. Good luck with the rrest of it!

wow ....u took the extra step huh lol

Very good start! :)

Originally posted by zerrocool
CWTF

Wots CWTF?

Mel79 stop stirring up my creative jiuces willya! :silly2:
Very creative btw, go mel go!

Great starting Work !!! looking to see more progress pics !

Originally posted by flyonthewall
I didn't realise Timo Salonen was still rallying, albeit as a privateer.

Hey fly, for this year same rally : Finland, we will see Vatanen in a Pug TOO !!! (hear it from a french interview of VATANEN)

Thank you all for the compliments, I hope the finished model will live up to your expectations;)

The texture on transmission tunnel was made by rubbing a piece of aluminum foil from a food tray on a piece of mesh. The exhaust should have a similar texture but the food tray aluminum was too thick to get it nicely on the exhaust, so I cut corners and covered it with thinner kitchen foil. I tried to texture it, but the foil was so thin that the texture got easily lost when I glued the foil on the exhaust. In the end I just used the foil without trying to texture it.

Rally Finland 2002 was a one off race for Salonen. I believe he wanted to celebrate his 50th birthday by testing a modern WRC in a real rally. He had quite a relaxed attitude through the rally. I saw him at a refueling pit during the rally and he was all smiles and joking with the spectators. He made some reasonably good stage times once he got used to the car and found a good setup.

It's really nice to see old rally stars trying their skills once more. In 2001 Markku Alen was at rally Finland, 2002 Salonen and now it's great to see if Vatanen will be there this year. As bonus we modelers get nice new liveries for our models:) And it's great to have a possibility to make a then and now -collection of group B and modern rally cars used by same driver.

-Mikko

:eek: That is absolutely a top-notch job !
This will be a 206 build- up to bookmark!
Good luck, Olivier

Some progress pics:

I have made the sideshields from thin plastic as planned. They need a bit more finishing before final painting, but looks like the body is coming up nicely. I need to make the second scoop (the small one) for the roof and then it's painting time.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/989992206sideshield.jpg

I modified front and rear suspension/shocks for higher gravel set up. I added 4mm spacers to the front and 3mm spacers to the rear shocks, as it looked a bit nose heavy if I had put 4mm spacers on the rear shocks too. I removed the original locating pegs and drilled holes in their place so I could put new pegs from streched sprue to the modified shocks.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/358927206frontshock.jpg

Rear shock:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/420605206rearshock.jpg

I test fitted the body and wheels to see how the car sits. All four wheels touch ground, so I guess I made atleast something right...;) Rear suspension may need a bit adjusting. Even though the car sits quite nicely the rear wheels may be a bit too high (deep) in their arches.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/167169206susptest.jpg

And finally a picture of the rear suspension. I had to replace the brake discs with smaller ones as the front tarmac type discs are too big. I moved rear discs from the kit to front discs and put smaller discs from parts box at rear. I belive they are from Fujimi 911 Carrera 2. Notice too that I added some heat discolouration on the exhaust heat insulation.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/483533206rearsusp.jpg

That's all for now, more progress maybe on next weekend.

-Mikko

Extremely amazing work!

Excellent progress Mikko.

Like the shields along the sides. Probably another detail Tamiya will forget in their new NZ 2002 Pug kit.

Personally I'd drop the front suspension a little bit. But if you have references that show that is the way the car sat then fair enough.

Superb!

Amazing a very nice car that also exists in 1/43. This is a very rare model

Your attention to detail is amazing. I really will have to get back to making rally cars.

Excellent work so far.

RallyRaider, I guess you're right, the front suspension might need a slight lowering. I think Hasegawas rally tires a bit lower profile than the real ones, so that may be one reason why the front looks so high. I have a picture from refueling pit (unfortunately I haven't got it scanned) which shows quite high ground clearance but here's a picture I found from the net which shows another setting (also notice small rectangular yellow stickers with black text 'seura' on side mirrors, these are not included in Renaissance's decal sheet).

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/395803206WRCtimos.jpg

As you can see the highest point of front tire is about 1/4-1/3 higher than the bumper line. That isn't too far from what I have done in my model, or what do you think? Maybe the rear suspension is too low, so it makes the front look higher than it really is? Also the black spoiler on the bottom of bumper is still unattached which means there is more ground clearance in front.

Anyway, I'll look into this once I get back to my modeling desk.

-Mikko

Going from that pic I think you have the height set fine. If you take another line as refference, the bottom of the door, it will extend to just above the centre of the rims.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/519221395803206WRCtimos.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/179625167169206susptest.jpg

Well Mikko, can't argue with that picture, seems like the front ride height of your model is just right.

I was only suggesting that in the single photo you posted the car looked a bit nose high, but I might be way off track. Obviously there is a very wide variation in ride height, from tarmac to safari spec. Usually the front clearance between tyre and guard is slightly greater than at the rear.

If the front suspension is right then IMHO the rear could be jacked up a touch. From a purely asthetic point of view I like it when cars have a slighly nose down attitude, makes them look meaner :cool: But possibly Timo liked his car's a bit nose high, something to do with launching over the Finnish yumps :D

This is Pug is going to look awesome. Any other customer Pugs in the pipeline?

Looks like another great Pug model on the way. i never seem to get tired of them;) with all the effort that you're putting into this one, im sure everyone will be pleased. l look forward to more progress

Your attention to detail is amazing. Do keep the updates coming along.

damn good job of it mel! I think based on the pics provided the suspensions looks right to me too.

Detailing work is up to mark from my pov and looking good.

I made the secondary roof scoop (not included in the kit) by heat forming a piece of thermaform plastic over a pattern made from plastic sheet.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/387546206scoop1.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/434836206scoop2.jpg

-Mikko

what an amazing build up this is!! :eek:

Originally posted by mel79
I made the secondary roof scoop (not included in the kit) by heat forming a piece of thermaform plastic over a pattern made from plastic sheet.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/387546206scoop1.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/434836206scoop2.jpg

-Mikko

I'm going to use this technique to make Altezza tail lights for my 350Z project.:)

Originally posted by mel79
I made the secondary roof scoop (not included in the kit) by heat forming a piece of thermaform plastic over a pattern made from plastic sheet.

-Mikko

Thanks for the great idea, this is something I have been aware of but never thought of attempting, now you have made me feel like it is something I could do, as you have shown how it is done.

Your Pug is coming along well, I look forward to seeing more progress.

Ray

looks great!!

It's been a while since my last update, but the progress with the project has slowed down a bit.

I decided to remake the lower gravel shields, as the first ones were too thin in my opinion and more importantly the upper line was not quite straight. I made new shields by making the upper part from one plastic strip and then adding milliput epoxy putty to the lower part to make the shield look like one part.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/783590206newgravel.jpg

I also corrected the sit of the car by raising the rear suspension by about 0.5mm.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/805365206newheight.jpg

And then there's some progress in the interior. The spare wheel is actually a 14" wheel from Hasegawa Integrale, but it's practically impossible to see difference in size compared to other wheels. I added a round disc with 5 holes to the inside of the wheel to add a bit detail. Belt buckles are Reji's etched parts and belt is made of Tamiya masking tape painted blue. Fuel tank is covered with SMS carbon fibre decal.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/301867206interior.jpg

That's all for now. I have some final priming to do on body and then I'm hopefully ready to paint it yellow with a mix of Tamiya acrylics.

-Mikko

WOW, very nice detail!

Can't wait for progress :smoka:

Very nice, but I have one question, do the gravel tires have the seam line down the center of the tires. I know some slicks do but I dont know if this could be corrected if not. Very Nice so far..

Looks super Mikko, really like the gravel sheilds, neat solution to the problem using the plastic card. Ride height look ready to rumble. The fuel tank looks good too, going to CF the mirror shells?

Originally posted by k_dog
Very nice, but I have one question, do the gravel tires have the seam line down the center of the tires. I know some slicks do but I dont know if this could be corrected if not. Very Nice so far..
Ah k_dog, no there shouldn't be any seams there but the damn thing ain't finished yet and even when it is they won't be very visible. Find it quite bizzare that someone who painted the chassis of their Evo VI Group A black is harping on about a tyre seam :rolleyes:

Originally posted by RallyRaider
Ah k_dog, no there shouldn't be any seams there but the damn thing ain't finished yet and even when it is they won't be very visible. Find it quite bizzare that someone who painted the chassis of their Evo VI Group A black is harping on about a tyre seam :rolleyes:

Damn Strait...;)

No, I was just curious....

Fantastic how-to-technique!

Thanks, this will be useful !

Olivier

Ps.. Great build- up!!

Yes, I'm going to carbon fibre the mirror shells too. However I think SMS black/pewter CF is a tad too bright or is that just an illusion? To my eyes the mirrors (and other CF:s too) look much darker in pictures.. Maybe I should give the mirrors a final coat with Tamiya's smoke or something like that to cut down that bright pewter color a bit.

And no, the should be no seam line on the tires. I just put them on so I could take photos.

-Mikko

Originally posted by mel79
Yes, I'm going to carbon fibre the mirror shells too. However I think SMS black/pewter CF is a tad too bright or is that just an illusion? To my eyes the mirrors (and other CF:s too) look much darker in pictures.. Maybe I should give the mirrors a final coat with Tamiya's smoke or something like that to cut down that bright pewter color a bit.


I used F1 Specialties carbon fibre for the wing mirrors. Their 1/20th decal is a lot finer and darker than the SMS ones. Seems to conform better too. There is a photo if them in my NZ 2000 206 progres thread. (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t76581.html)

Originally posted by mel79
Yes, I'm going to carbon fibre the mirror shells too. However I think SMS black/pewter CF is a tad too bright or is that just an illusion? To my eyes the mirrors (and other CF:s too) look much darker in pictures.. Maybe I should give the mirrors a final coat with Tamiya's smoke or something like that to cut down that bright pewter color a bit.

And no, the should be no seam line on the tires. I just put them on so I could take photos.

-Mikko

Mikko,
I don't know how easily you will be able to get it, but I have found the Renaissance C/F decals to be great as far as the darkness of the grey goes.
On another note, I do know you can use Tamiya smoke over the SMS decals to make them look darker.

Ray

The Pug has now received a couple of coats of paint. I made the yellow by mixing Tamiya's acrylic Lemon Yellow and some Orange, because Lemon Yellow was too bright. Now I have to wait for the paint to harden before I can polish it (it has some orange peel and few small imperfections which need to be taken care of).

I wasn't sure what color the undersurface shield should be. First I painted it silver, but then I thought it might be yellow because everything looks so yellow inside the radiator opening. I'm not sure if it's right, but I think yellow looks nicer than silver anyway:sun:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/237686206painted.jpg

I haven't used Renaissance decals before, but atleast on the sheet they look nice...

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/470768206decal.jpg

...except for the light misalignment of light blue:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/569975206decalclose.jpg

That's it for now. Interior still needs seatbelts for the co-driver and then it's nearly finished. I hope it won't take long to finish the whole model, but now I have to wait for the paint on the body to harden and Tamiya acrylics need quite a long time to cure:(

-Mikko

cool so far! Was the interior floor painted with the testors acrylic silver also?

Yes, interior floor is also painted with Testors acrylic silver (the kind that comes in those strange pouches).

-Mikko

pouches?

Originally posted by irupp33
pouches?

There are a couple of brands of paint that come in a little pouch instead of a bottle or tin, they are pretty hard to describe.
The pouch is kind of like one of those drink pouches but it has a resealable valve at the top.
I would post a photo but I don't have any here, mine are all at my Dad's place.

Ray

Maybe the decal paper has distorted the color? I think they'll look fine off the paper.

Don't forget to clear the Tamiya acrylics with a nice lacquer before you polish :)

hey that looks great, the detail you have gone into suprises me :) how do you get the tinfoil to stick to the exhaust pipe? any help is great.

thanks

this thread is one for the bookmarks!

Looking good Mikko, striking shade of yellow. The finish appears to be great already. Will you be using a clearcoat over the Tamiya acrylic?

Pug: I glued the tinfoil on the exhaust with Microscale Klear. I guess you can use almost any glue that is suitably sticky. Normal superglue (cyanoacrylate) may be a bit too fast for this purpose, but maybe the thick gel type would do.

Phil: I'm not sure about the clear coat yet. It would protect the decals nicely though, but I think I would have to use Tamiya acrylic clear and I think it yellows slightly in a couple of years:( I may just polish the paint and put on the decals and leave it without clear coat. I could put a coat of TS clear, but I don't know if it's safe to use TS clear on acrylic paint? Has anyone tried it? If there's any doubt about how these paints will react together then I'll pass the clear coat.

-Mikko

I know, only english but: ONHAN SE PERKELEEN HIENO!!!!!:D

:eek: :eek: WOW!!!!!!! Awesome work! the detail you add improve allot the car. Waiting for more progress pics.........:D

thanks for the help

Originally posted by mel79
Phil: I'm not sure about the clear coat yet. It would protect the decals nicely though, but I think I would have to use Tamiya acrylic clear and I think it yellows slightly in a couple of years:( I may just polish the paint and put on the decals and leave it without clear coat. I could put a coat of TS clear, but I don't know if it's safe to use TS clear on acrylic paint? Has anyone tried it? If there's any doubt about how these paints will react together then I'll pass the clear coat.

-Mikko

Mikko I wouldn't try spraying Tamiya TS paints over any water based acrylic since the TS range are synthetic lacquer based. Lacquer over aqueous doesn't work! If you intend to clear coat then acrylic would be the way to go or maybe even future to get arround the yellowing problem you mentioned. If in doubt pass as you say, maybe a just a gentle wax would be enough to protect the decals. But I guess now is not the time to experiment, the techniques you used on your 037 worked well enough, just do more of the same!

Now I've polished the paint and all went very well. Unfortunately I can't take pictures because I managed to damage my camera and it's now being repaired. I'll give you some when I get it back.

Another unfortunate thing is that I found out that the radiator intake grille on the front bumper is wider on '99 Pug than it is on '02 Peugeot.. and I only got the etched parts for '02 because '99 parts seem to be hard to find these days (at least I couldn't find them from Mediamix or HLJ).

-Mikko

Got my camera back, here's some new progress pictures.

I finished the interior and rollcage. I made the map pouch on the co-drivers door by cutting a corner from the decal bag and made supports for it from two strips of thin graphic tape. The maps are just pieces of paper.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/617685206int1.jpg

Test fitting the polished body. I noticed the windowpart doesn't need glue for attaching as the rollcage will push it against the body. That's nice, no trouble from glue smears.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/948133206yellow.jpg

Body with decals. The Renaissance decals went quite well on the body, although the red area on the front of the bonnet was a bit hard to get fit properly because the decal didn't want to go round the corners too well. Microsol and Microset didn't have a big effect on the decals, but still helped slightly on places.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/108309206decal.jpg

The biggest works ahead are making the mudflaps and inside covers for the wheelarches. After that it should be just some detailing, assembling and finally a light weathering to give the car a dusty look.

-Mikko