No high beam headlights...

Hi. I just bought a 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager and have just noticed the high beams don't work. The low beams are fine, but when I pull the lever for high beams, the headlights completly turn off, leaving just the marker lights on. The 'information center' doesn't even show that the high beams are on when I pull the lever back. There is suppose to be a blue indicator light, showing that the high beams are on, but instead of high beams, I get no headlights at all and the high beam indicator light doesn't even come on.

The past owner recently installed a new headlight bulb, so I assumed that the bulb(s) would be ok. Someone told me that it could be a "Vehicle Control Module" problem. I don't even know what that is.

I am hoping to find someone who is alot smarter than me to help out. lol So far it could be one of a few things, Vehicle Control Module, The lever (headlight switch), or even the headlight bulbs (doubtfull).


Could someone help me out? Any ideas what the problem is?

Clueless;

The 1st thing I would check would indeed be the bulbs. If the previous owner installed one, I would check to see if it is the correct bulb(s) to begin with. Also, I prefer to replace both bulbs when it comes to headlights. Your other bulb may also be shot, and is the reason you have no lights when switching to Hi beams, and also the reason the Hi beam indicator does not light. (Hi beam circuit is open)

Doc

Lack of a high beam indicator light indicates either that bulb is blown, it's not getting a ground or the high beam relay is not working.

Try swapping the low and high beam relays in the fuse/relay panel next to the battery (PDC). Check 10 amp fuses #4 and #5 in the PDC.

Do you have daylight running headlights?

Thanks for the tips. I'll pick up some new bulbs and try that first, then i'll try what RIP said if the bulbs don't fix the problem.

I'm not sure if this sounds right, but i don't think this van has daylight headlights, the marker lights come on but no headlamps.

I'll be sure to post my results. Thanks again.

i'll say it's the switch it's self if it goes to nothing when you change from low beams to high beams and you have nothing. it's not same car but on a pa it happen to me.

I thought i would try doing the things RIP said first, before buying more bulbs.

I swapped the relays (low/high beam), and still the same problem. I checked the fuses for the highbeams and they were good (not burned out), but there was zero power getting to both the highbeam fuses, even when i pulled the lever back for high beams. So i'm almost thinking it is the headlamp switch (lever on the steering column).

If there's no power whatsoever getting to the highbeam fuses, shouldn't that mean it would be the switch ? Unless maybe its some strange ground issue? Thats my guess, but i'm pretty clueless. lol Unfortunatly, they want 150 bucks for that switch + labor. A toggle switch sounds pretty good right about now. lol

You won't see power at the fuses until the relay activates. The relay won't activate until a ground path to the relay coil is provided by the headlights dimmer switch. Check continuity between contacts 8 & 12 on the switch with high beams selected. Should be there. If it's not, the switch is bad. While you're at it make sure power is getting to the relay coil and output contact by checking for voltage at contacts 86 & 30 on the high beam relay socket. Should see power at each even with the key off.

I don't recall exactly how these vans are set up but, on some cars when you pull the lever to use the dimmer switch it moves a lever inside the steering column that is attached to the dimmer switch. That lever may be broken or disconnected. You might want to remove the steering column cover and investigate. Disconnect the negative battery lead first to keep from blowing an airbag.

As for the daytime running lights, if so equipped, they use the turn signal bulbs, not the headlights, so the drl's are amber.

I just did what RIP suggested and both the 8 & 12 contacts on the headlight switch have no power to them, even when high beams are selected. (#8 contact is a black wire, and #12 contact is a green/white wire).

I checked the relay coil/output contact, and there was power to the relay in 2 of the 'contacts'. I assume they are the 86 & 30 contacts.

Should I assume now that it is the headlight/lever switch that is toasted ?

BTW, thanks for all the advice.

If you meant to say you have no continuity when you have ohms selected on the meter and one meter probe in contact 12 and the other in contact 8 with high beam selected at the dimmer switch then yes, it's bad. Switch it back and forth to make sure. I take it there was no "internal lever" leading to the dimmer switch from the stalk lever? Must be the dimmer switch and turn sig switch are all a single unit.

Yes only two socket contacts should have power. You should see the contact numbers on the bottom of the relay. Sounds like you're ok there.

Thanks for telling me the wire color ID. What you are seeing is matching my schematic. It's always good to know we're both on the same page. If you want to see the schematic I'm looking at look at open the Free Online Manuals thread at the top of the forum...except type 12345 as the password and select the Meigs County library. Bit of a PIA to get to but it's there.

If you can try spraying electrical contact cleaner in the switch housing. It might free it up. WD40 would work in a pinch. Contact cleaner is best.

I did something a little off... I used a fuse tester to check for power in the 8 & 12 contacts. I hope that this would work. The two low beam contacts on the switch showed power flowing using the fuse tester, so i assumed the high beam contacts would light the fuse tester up as well if there was power flowing in them. Unfortunatley my multimeter got run over a year ago and i never replaced it. lol Probably for the best anyways, i don't know how to use one.

There was no internal lever for the dimmer switch. Everything is 'encased' in plastic as a single unit. The entire switch is very easy to access and remove. Even for me. I think i'll pick up a new multimeter and try out what you said again, with the proper tool, just to be certain.