1997 silverado won't start. Help!!!

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I have a 1997 Silverado 5.7 auto 2wd with 170,000 miles on motor

I had this truck for about 2 years and only thing that when wrong was a Camshaft Sensor was replaced last year.

I was told that Fuel Pump was replaced at one point also.

While driving last week the truck felt like it misfired a couple times,no codes came up.
Truck sat all night , It was hard to start yesterday,but it start, ran kind of ruff for a while. no codes.

The truck sat for the night, went to start the truck, and it would not fire up.
I checked for spark and it looked good to me.

Also tryed sprayed starting fluid and that didn't help.

I checked the psi on the fuel rail and was 62 psi when I turned the key on.
When fuel pump stoped it was 52-53 psi ,then slowly droped to around 40 ish.

Well I cranked on the starter so much I killed the battery.

I did replace the cap, rotor, Crankshaft sensor and Camshaft sensor and It did start When I used my honda Accord to jump start it.

Service engine soon light came on , I think that might be due to all the starting fluid I sprayed into motor. Just a guess.

I drove Truck around the block, ran good.

I let the truck sit over night and it cranks fine but, won't start again.


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I have a 1997 Silverado 5.7 auto 2wd with 170,000 miles on motor

I had this truck for about 2 years and only thing that when wrong was a Camshaft Sensor was replaced last year.

I was told that Fuel Pump was replaced at one point also.

While driving last week the truck felt like it misfired a couple times,no codes came up.
Truck sat all night , It was hard to start yesterday,but it start, ran kind of ruff for a while. no codes.

The truck sat for the night, went to start the truck, and it would not fire up.
I checked for spark and it looked good to me.

Also tryed sprayed starting fluid and that didn't help.

I checked the psi on the fuel rail and was 62 psi when I turned the key on.
When fuel pump stoped it was 52-53 psi ,then slowly droped to around 40 ish.

Well I cranked on the starter so much I killed the battery.

I did replace the cap, rotor, Crankshaft sensor and Camshaft sensor and It did start When I used my honda Accord to jump start it.

Service engine soon light came on , I think that might be due to all the starting fluid I sprayed into motor. Just a guess.

I drove Truck around the block, ran good.

I let the truck sit over night and it cranks fine but, won't start again.


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Do a clyinder compression check.

Also test the igntion coil and pickup coil in distributor.

Is the coil on the distributor cap or seperately bolted to manifold?

My 97" 305 CID with 143K had the same prob that i played with for awhile. when damp overnite ,would not start, it would crank but not start.Check the distributor, seems the technical design of its low profile design isnt a good design, coupled with 2 vent screens the size of pencil eraser heads that because of the design get clogged and allow no airflow for condensation to disapate, hence my problem. I had enough of the starting issue that i took it in to a repair shop . Bad dist. design coupled with a worn dist gear that was 13 degrees off. Wish I would of had this info when my truck started this issue. hope this helps.

hard starting when cold,,no dtc,,,have fuel and spark,,,this is usually the ECT...if the computer thinks its a warm start up you will not command the injectors to stay open long enough...also this does cause a start then a very quick stall in MOST cases..

fuel pressures should not drop off more than 5psi over a few minutes...reg.,injector,or fuel pump...but your fuel supplied should be suffecient for starting..

This chevrolet vorteck engine has poppit valves instead of injectors the poppet valve have a tendency to get stuck closed in moring and not start unually when started the truck will miss for a bit the run fine, GM has a top engine cleaner that will sometimes clean the poppit valves. Regular injector cleaner will have no effect on the problem. There is a GM service bullitin on this problem. Many times the poppet valves have to be replaced with an updated injector system available at aftermarket parts supply can cost 350.00 for the kit.

I just want to give a undate on my truck.

Well I found out the the distributor cap was not siting flat on distributor.

The old plastic distributor housing was cracked there the screws hold down the cap.

So I ended up buying a new distributor for $79.00 that was made from billet Aluminum. GREAT PRICE!! Truck runs great again!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-GM-Ignition-Distributor-Vortec-350-V8-5-0L-5-7L_W0QQitemZ280293993107QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item280293993107&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A64%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C24 0%3A1318

I just want to give a update on my truck.

Well I found out the the distributor cap was not siting flat on distributor.

The old plastic distributor housing was cracked where the screws hold down the cap.

So I ended up buying a new distributor for $79.00 that was made from billet Aluminum. GREAT PRICE!! Truck runs great again!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-GM-Ignition-Distributor-Vortec-350-V8-5-0L-5-7L_W0QQitemZ280293993107QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item280293993107&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A64%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C24 0%3A1318