1999 Regal GS 3.8 Supercharged wont start - see details

Ok guys...

I am a long time listener, first time caller, lol. (if you listen to bob and tom, you'll get this...)

I have a 1999 Buick Regal GS 3.8 Supercharged. I am ready to kill it.

If you start the car STONE COLD first thing in the morning for exampe, it will run great, but as soon as it warms up, It DIES and WILL NOT re-start - it may fire and run EXTREMELY rough for 2-3 seconds, but thats it. I have read around alot of forums about this problem, and all the symptoms pointed to the Crank Position Sensor.

I have since changed the CPS with the same result - start the car, it will run (idle or reving) for 10 or 12 minutes and then suddenly stall out. It will once again not start when it is warm. I have checked the Resistor for the fuel pump, tried wrapping it in an ice pack for a long time to simulate it being cold - that made no difference. I tried the "temporary" resistor bypass at the relay to kick the fuel pump into high speed..and that did not help either.

I have tried chaging the coil packs, the spark plug wires as well.. to no avail.

I have also tried cooling the Ignition Control module to a COLD temp (with ice in 2 ziploc bags) and re-assembling it to see if the ICM has been overheating. Once the ICM was chilled, the car would start, run EXTREMELY rough and sound like it was trying to suck in air like crazy thru the airbox (more than normal sounding)

I am at my wits end... the car has been down for several days now, and I am ready to light the car on fire, LOL.

Do you think it IS the ICM? I dont want to spend 100+ dollars after everything I have already replaced just to yeild the same result.
PLEASE HELP A MAN READY TO GO INSANE!!!:banghead:

Hell... If you know some miracle fix, or have some information email me, call me, send a carrier pidgeon!!
Seriously though- email is Doin12volt@yahoo.com

Did you change the cam or crank sensor?

It was the crank sensor i changed, not cam.

Both the crank sensor & ICM can become heat sensitive. I would go ahead & try another ICM. Have you checked the fuel pressure when it won't start?

I have poked the schrader valve, and it spurts fuel, (i dont have a perss gauge at the moment.

I thought of something that might be worth trying. How about warming up the ICM to about 150 degrees & see if it'll start the cold engine?

Or you could get an ICM from a junkyard for a lot less than $100. The yards around here will give your money back if the part doesn't help.

alright.. I am gonna hit the local wrecking yard tommorow (today) LOL - for a ICM. Will it work from any 3.8 v6 regardless of the supercharger, or should i look for a supercharged one just to be safe?

also, here is a 3 min video of the engine DYING again... It dies after i rev it, but it will normally die even just at idle.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/toyotaman89/home/th_109_3586.jpg (http://s98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/toyotaman89/home/?action=view&current=109_3586.flv)

All the 3800 ICMs are the same from about 1994 & newer.

Try unplugging the MAF sensor & see if it still stalls.

I have poked the schrader valve, and it spurts fuel, (i dont have a perss gauge at the moment.

That doesn't do any good. Fuel pressure should be checked with a gauge. If the MAF sensor trick doesn't work then run the fuel pump resistor bypass. See link below. Note: For a Regal GS it will be relay #18 which is the fuel pump speed control relay at the engine compartment fuse box.

Click here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=658282)

I already did the resistor bypass at the relay... no help. I will also try to grab my pressure gauges from the shop today.

Also.. To save everyone typing time and explaining... I am an ASE cert mechanic, and I have been doing automotive electrical systems for the last 17 years, this way you know you can talk technically and dont have to explain, lol.

I still want to kill this car however! ;)

I already did the resistor bypass at the relay... no help. I will also try to grab my pressure gauges from the shop today.



Just double checking. The last member with a similar issue didn't do the pin bend properly on the relay or did it on the wrong relay and it turned out to be a bad resistor. But since you' re a mechanic we will assume you know what you are doing. :wink:

Won't hurt to see where you stand on fuel pressure. And did you try the disconnecting MAF sensor suggestion?

Just double checking. The last member with a similar issue didn't do the pin bend properly on the relay or did it on the wrong relay and it turned out to be a bad resistor. But since you' re a mechanic we will assume you know what you are doing. :wink:

Won't hurt to see where you stand on fuel pressure. And did you try the disconnecting MAF sensor suggestion?

Nope, Have not tried fuel pressure or unpluging the MAF yet - not near the car till later this afternoon. I have someone picking up a ICM from the wrecking yard at the moment..I will keep you all updated!! (so stay online! :lol: )

By the way, Thanks to everyone for the quick replys and all of the input - I have been to "other unnamed forums" and still have yet to get anything from them...So thanks alot!!

well HELL.... I tried running the car till it died and would not re-start. I then unplugged the MAF. the car started and ran great.

The car is fixed. The old MAF would become an open circuit after it reached about 110 degrees. Obviously this would cause the car to die. I have replaced the MAF and now put about 50 miles on it, and it runs smooth as can be.

thanks for the help guys.. and look at the bright side - now i have new spark plug wires and a new CPS, hahaha... ha ha.... ha.


ahem. once again, Thanks!

Mickey#1 - I owe you a beer.

:bananasmi Glad you got it fixed.:bananasmi

The video made me think it might be the MAF. :cheers:

This thread saved my bacon so I want to add my symptoms for other folks to use. I also have a 1999 GS supercharged 3.8L. It is a great car but manifest a problem of idling fine sometimes them cycling between high to low rpms. Fuel pressure would drop at high rpm and peak at low rpm. The engine was running rich ... plugs were heavy with soot. As soon as the engine was reved in park or after an acceleration the engine would stall and would not start. I checked the TPS function, EGR, temp sensor, IAC, fuel pressure. I even visually inspected the MAF to verify both thermistors were clean and intact. I was pulling my hair out!!!!

My wife found this thread and the MAF was the problem. I owed her big time!!