Battery Light will not go off

I have replaced a few things such as a timing belt, gas tank, muffler, reinstalled same fuel pump. I've got a sound system inside and I can't get the right side speakers to work. After I got every thing on and ready the battery light came on and will not will not go out. The battery doesn't drain or anything and nothing feels wrong so I'm guessing it might be some sort of code being displayed. Any suggestions of check lists to try?

The first would be to state the obvious as you have worked so much on it that something may have been disturbed or not put back. So, check
-wires and connections to the alternator
-battery wires and connectors tight at posts
-some other inline connector to the alternator
-test battery with voltmeter for 13 to 15 volts while
running at battery and at alternator
-test that the alternator body is well grounded, as you
probably removed it from the engine for the timing belt
repair. Use either a test light to the battery and the
alternator body or an ohms meter.
-take car to auto parts place for free test of battery and
charging system, alternator still in
-take out alternator and have parts place bench test it,
which will be a better and more meaningful test

Since you didn't state the year, engine or mileage on your escort, it's really hard to be more specific. If it had say 100k miles on it or more, it wouldn't be surprising if the alternator is bad or the brushes or the internal voltage regulator coincidentally went bad when you were doing all of your other repairs. Did the timing belt jump or strip or break? Or were you being prudent? Though, right now, I can't make a definitive connection between the timing belt going bad and the alternator.

Possibly Autozone.com has wiring diagrams, pictures, and directions that would be helpful for testing the alternator and wiring to it for your specific car.
Hope that helps.

If the battery light won't go out when the engine is running use triplettdaddy's diagnosis and repair suggestions. If the battery light won't go out when you turn the ignition off the diodes are defective allowing current to flow back into the alternator from the battery.

Check a 40amp fuse under the hood labeled "BTN".

The first would be to state the obvious as you have worked so much on it that something may have been disturbed or not put back. So, check
-wires and connections to the alternator
-battery wires and connectors tight at posts
-some other inline connector to the alternator
-test battery with voltmeter for 13 to 15 volts while
running at battery and at alternator
-test that the alternator body is well grounded, as you
probably removed it from the engine for the timing belt
repair. Use either a test light to the battery and the
alternator body or an ohms meter.
-take car to auto parts place for free test of battery and
charging system, alternator still in
-take out alternator and have parts place bench test it,
which will be a better and more meaningful test

Since you didn't state the year, engine or mileage on your escort, it's really hard to be more specific. If it had say 100k miles on it or more, it wouldn't be surprising if the alternator is bad or the brushes or the internal voltage regulator coincidentally went bad when you were doing all of your other repairs. Did the timing belt jump or strip or break? Or were you being prudent? Though, right now, I can't make a definitive connection between the timing belt going bad and the alternator.

First off the timing belt broke, after replacing the belt I also checked the alternator and it was no good so I replaced the alternator. All the wires looks good after inspection. The battery is new and new posts were also installed. This escort is a 93 Ford escort wagon 1.9L at 199 000.

On my Escort (a 92 wagon) there is a single wire running to the alternator, a small one, not the heavy output terminal and not the two wire connection - and its connector is well worn & missing its 'latch'. If it is at all loose the alt. light on the dash comes on. The alternator is charging just fine, the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine running is in the mid 14 volts range. If I wiggle that single connector the dash light will go out - but might come on at the next speed bump. So I dont worry about it much. I also ignore the 'low coolant' light, since my coolant isnt low and it isnt using coolant.
Having passed 200k miles, I accept there will be some odd stuff.

Ok here is an update so far. I have done all the neccesary checks of the alternator besides taking it in to get checked which I will do tonight. However, this problem must be connected to the battery light. When driving the speedometer goes erratic where it will drop to 0 and then the car slips in and out of gear, when the speedometer goes back to normal the car rides normal. I replaced the whole throttle assembly and it appeared fine until this morning and on my way to work it started doing this again once the vehicle appeared to be warmed up. I am really thinking alternator.

Ok I was taking the alternator off and removed the boot for the positive connection and I immediately noticed the ground was not on the clip. Clipped it in and reconnected the battery and started it .... NO battery light. Problem fixed.

Great! This means you got off cheap! :smokin:

Didn't I say this sounds like a wiring problem, like with a ground?

BTW, AZ Tumbleweed, what is the BTN fuse?

Didn't I say this sounds like a wiring problem, like with a ground?

BTW, AZ Tumbleweed, what is the BTN fuse?

I'm not exactly sure but a couple years ago mine blew and the alternator light came on. I took it to a FORD shop and let them figure it out. They said the wiring harness going to the alternator had shorted out causing the fuse to blow. That's all I know. (It's in the main fuse box under hood.)