95 2.2 Celica just quit. Timing,fuel,Spark all OK

I took off the other day and it started sputtering. I barley got up to speed and it cut off. I recranked it several times and each time it would stay running less time until it finally just turns over and dosen't fire. I assumed that was fuel since it stayed running less and less. I thought it was depleating what little fuel was left in the system. I have taken the banjo fitting loose on the filter and I have fuel and pressure. I have taken a plug wire loose and grounded to block and have spark. I have removed timing cover and checked timing marks and all is OK. I have sprayed carb cleaner in the intake to see if I can get it to fire just a little bit and nothing. I would think that if I sprayed carb cleaner or ether past the butterfly on the throttle body it would fire if I had spark. Should I see if I have fuel closer to the fuel rail. I usually look for a schrader valve on the rail but this dosen't have one. Ny ideas please??

ok well the first thing you just did is eliminated the fuel from being an issue. (that is if you did it right) which eliminates the EFI fuse from being a possibility, it also elimates the fuel pump, wiring or anything that could have to do with fuel. Even with your fuel supply disconnected it should at least catch off the ether. If it doesn't your looking at a spark/timing issue. You said you had spark. You can have a spark but not an effeciant spark. The best place to start since it sounds like you've already gone through all the trouble of checking the time consuming stuff is to just change the spark pluggs (unless you have already done that rescently), also change the wires, but the cheapest thing you can look at, that has caused me problems in both my celicas, is the rotor under the distributor cap. Its like 7 bucks. If you have a junk yard near by check your ignition module. If your timing is all still really set properly as you say your looking at a spark issue. Even if you have a spark it may not be enough they have you Gage the depth of the Gab for a reason. Hope you figure it out...

Ok here I go again. I have changed the head gasket, fuel filter, wires, plugs, timing belt, fuel pump, fuel pressure reg., cap and rotor button, and map sensor. I have gotten a code 31 and its vacuum senser/ airflow sensor. It only has a Map sensor so I did the vacuum pump test on it and it passed but I put one one it anyway because of the code 31. I changed the timing belt because it needed it and the head gasket because I had number one cylinder down to 115psi and it leaked oil out the back. I have gotten back together and it cranks and runs good until you rev it to about 3500rpm and it cuts out and the check engine light flashes. It won't rev above that. If I try to hold it at 3500 it will finnally give up an stall. I have to wind and wind on it to get it started again after that. It sounds like its flooded. Once I get it started again it will do the same thing. If I rev it to high to long it will stall. I am now thinking of KNOCK sensor. That cuts timing if the motor vibrates o much. But thats not the code I got. Any more help would be much appreciated.

One more thing I noticed. A few times when I try to crank it I turn the key and nothing happens. I put it in neutral and it cranks. What about the possibility of the neutral safety switch. I have had trouble with them before. It may be losing connection at high rpms. Just a thought. That wouldn't explain the hard starting after a stall.

well it definitely sounds like you have good trouble shooting techniques. The one thing I will say and it probably won't be much help....is don't always rely on computer codes to solve a problem. The computer codes are only as reliable as the people that wrote the codes. An example..... I worked on a car that a friend of mine had into the dealer 3 times, and spent thousands trying to figure out what was wrong with it...it kept triggering a TPS Error, so they replaced the sensor 3 times. as well as all the vaccuum lines. after I looked at it for an hour I noticed a bolt slive that was grounding the starter to the casing.....(causing the jolting he was getting, that was triggering his engine light, and the TPS Error. Since the ecu doesn't have a code written for bolt sleeve grounding to the starter, it had to trigger some kind of an error, and for what ever reason thats just the one it picked). moral of the story is that even though that is what the computer is telling you..... its not necessarily it. I really hope you get that figured out, if I come up with anything that is a little more helpful I'll drop it by ya. Good luck!