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Brake Line replacement


lilsweets3138
11-07-2008, 07:09 PM
2.2L
1997 Cavalier LS

Today I was driving and my brakes gave out on me..I almost got into a serious car accident but thankgod I used my emergency brake.

I got out and examined my car and there was some white smoke coming from under the car. I saw a small puddle of fluid, it was not oil or gas..I am sure it was brake fluid. I asked my cousin to look under the car while I stepped on the brake and she saw liquid squirting from a small steel tube located behind the left rear rim..behind the drum. The tube was VERY rusted and that is where the leak is.

I tried calling some auto parts stores and they don't sell brake lines for my vehicle,I have to go there and buy piece by piece.

So..what will I need to get to replace my brake line and how many feet will I need of steel tubing?

Pepboys said they would do the work for me for $80.00 including parts,is this a good price?

Any information would help alot.

Thanks

muff34
11-07-2008, 10:52 PM
the line is cheap. you can try do it yourself,just follow the line from where it goes into brake drum (cylinder) to where the union is at the other end. get a rough measurement and get the corresponding lenght. 80 bucks is not that bad to have it done by a professional tho. brake lines can be a real PITA not to mention the bleeding of brakes

Classicrocjunkie
11-07-2008, 11:13 PM
Double flaring is the real bitch....

Honestly... take it to Pepboys and let them fuck around with it. $80 isn't bad, pending on what they are going to replace.

lilsweets3138
11-08-2008, 02:18 PM
Thanks alot guys. I think Pepboys will be the best way to go.

:-)

lilsweets3138
11-11-2008, 05:48 PM
SO...I took my car to Pepboys and the price changed from $80.00 to $275.00. I'm like what the HELL,BOB told me it would be $80.00! So I drove my ass back home. I got my dad to help me,we replaced both rear steel brake lines and everything went okay. We bled them too(all 4). We go to test the brakes and the pedal is REALLY spongy feeling and it goes all the way down to the floor. I mean the brakes work but it is not working like it is suppose to.

There is no preassure when I press on the pedal and when braking it takes several seconds to come to a complete stop.I would not drive down anykind of hill because I know the brakes will not work right.

My dad thinks there is still air in the line because the brake fluid resvoire was empty.He thinks we may need to bleed it some more.

I wanted to know If this is true and what steps can we take to remove all the air in the line?

Thanks again,

muff34
11-12-2008, 03:57 PM
holy crap ya that`s a little higher than quoted! what else were they going to do?
Definately sounds like you still have air in system because the master cylinder got too low. That`s the part where I said before that bleeding can be a PITA. Be sure not to let the fluid get to low and always put the cap on resevoir before you attempt to bleed brakes. Do one wheel at a time till you are sure it is air free. Good luck

lilsweets3138
11-15-2008, 09:56 PM
They weren't going to do anything else. I think they were trying to get over on me because I'm a girl..I went early in the morning and no one else was there so he was trying to pocket some money.

But yeah,now that I know there is more air still in there I will try again :-)

Thanks everyone for your help

Mutsky
11-30-2008, 09:26 PM
You will have to bleed all four wheel cylinders in order to get the air out of the system and restore good braking. Just remember to keep sufficient fluid in the master cylinder while you are bleeding the lines...also caution since brake fluid is hard on paint ....if you happen to spill some, wipe it off quickly and make sure you use the same kind of fluid (probably DOT 3) that is in your system already. Should say on the master cylinder cap what fluid to use.

Markgc
12-04-2008, 10:25 AM
Yes you still need to bleed the system. Sometimes when you have almost got it done it is good to wait over night and let the system settle out and then all the tiny bubbles can form a bigger bubble which is easier to bleed out.

By the way I would check the rear metal brake line on the other side. That might be rusted and almost ready to fail too. Worth a look.


Never let the fluid run out in the master cylinder while you are bleeding the system or you will have to start all over again

http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/how_to/4213448.html

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