Sliding Door Trouble
richamer1
11-07-2008, 08:10 AM
Mine seems different from the other posts I have read. Passenger side 2000 door unlocks and locks all buttons but will not open or close. When I hit a button I here the motor in the rear quarter area run for about 1 or 2 seconds and stop door does not move. I took cup holder and things out to get access to the motor if does turn if you hit a button or move the door by hand. On the front of the motor it says increase tension on a plastic nut ? Anyone have any ideas on this one ? Thank You :banghead:
merc81
11-07-2008, 11:01 AM
I'm sorry, I'm not able to follow you too well as to what you did above. Are you saying that if you 'help' the door move, the motor will provide most of the effort? Also, did you remove the molded side panel to get to the motor? I don't think you can do much by taking out the cup holders.
The mechanism is designed with a clutch so it can slip when you open the door by hand, or if your body gets shut in the door, etc. The cable on these things is plastic coated steel and the plastic coating wears off, causing the cable to have shredded plastic bits that get stuck in the rollers and especially in the clutch spool.
This can be hard to fix unless you determine the exact cause of the failure. There are diagnostic codes for the door system and you need to look over the cable path real well by sight and by touch to see if the cable is seperating from the plastic coating.
John
The mechanism is designed with a clutch so it can slip when you open the door by hand, or if your body gets shut in the door, etc. The cable on these things is plastic coated steel and the plastic coating wears off, causing the cable to have shredded plastic bits that get stuck in the rollers and especially in the clutch spool.
This can be hard to fix unless you determine the exact cause of the failure. There are diagnostic codes for the door system and you need to look over the cable path real well by sight and by touch to see if the cable is seperating from the plastic coating.
John
richamer1
11-07-2008, 11:48 AM
Sorry I will try and be more clear Thank You for your response. No the motor does not assist at all. If you move the door manually or hit and button it unlocks and the motor runs for about 1 or 2 seconds then shuts off I dont know if a sensor tells it the door is not moving and it shuts off or what. Also could there be something not allowing the clutch to engage ? Your right about the panel I just wanted to get to the motor to see what it was doing. Is there only one motor I heard somwhere that a different motor closed the door the last inch or so and pulled it tight ? I'm sorry, I'm not able to follow you too well as to what you did above. Are you saying that if you 'help' the door move, the motor will provide most of the effort? Also, did you remove the molded side panel to get to the motor? I don't think you can do much by taking out the cup holders.
The mechanism is designed with a clutch so it can slip when you open the door by hand, or if your body gets shut in the door, etc. The cable on these things is plastic coated steel and the plastic coating wears off, causing the cable to have shredded plastic bits that get stuck in the rollers and especially in the clutch spool.
This can be hard to fix unless you determine the exact cause of the failure. There are diagnostic codes for the door system and you need to look over the cable path real well by sight and by touch to see if the cable is seperating from the plastic coating.
John
The mechanism is designed with a clutch so it can slip when you open the door by hand, or if your body gets shut in the door, etc. The cable on these things is plastic coated steel and the plastic coating wears off, causing the cable to have shredded plastic bits that get stuck in the rollers and especially in the clutch spool.
This can be hard to fix unless you determine the exact cause of the failure. There are diagnostic codes for the door system and you need to look over the cable path real well by sight and by touch to see if the cable is seperating from the plastic coating.
John
richamer1
11-08-2008, 11:03 AM
Ok I took the panel completly off. Nothing obviously wrong. I did push center nut in and turn it a small amout towards where it says increase tension . Door started to open and close fine 4 or 5 times then stopped. I did this again and it started working again. I do not think I have it fixed and do not want to put it back together without knowing . I am not sure what the nut does that says push to decrease tension turn counter clockwise to increase, but this does make it work atleast a few times. Not sure if it needs adjusted or how to adjust it. Push in and turn ? Any suggestion ?:banghead: I'm sorry, I'm not able to follow you too well as to what you did above. Are you saying that if you 'help' the door move, the motor will provide most of the effort? Also, did you remove the molded side panel to get to the motor? I don't think you can do much by taking out the cup holders.
The mechanism is designed with a clutch so it can slip when you open the door by hand, or if your body gets shut in the door, etc. The cable on these things is plastic coated steel and the plastic coating wears off, causing the cable to have shredded plastic bits that get stuck in the rollers and especially in the clutch spool.
This can be hard to fix unless you determine the exact cause of the failure. There are diagnostic codes for the door system and you need to look over the cable path real well by sight and by touch to see if the cable is seperating from the plastic coating.
John
The mechanism is designed with a clutch so it can slip when you open the door by hand, or if your body gets shut in the door, etc. The cable on these things is plastic coated steel and the plastic coating wears off, causing the cable to have shredded plastic bits that get stuck in the rollers and especially in the clutch spool.
This can be hard to fix unless you determine the exact cause of the failure. There are diagnostic codes for the door system and you need to look over the cable path real well by sight and by touch to see if the cable is seperating from the plastic coating.
John
merc81
11-10-2008, 07:50 AM
The adjustment in the hub is the clutch tension. If its started to move the door by adjusting it, then you should be able to correct the problem.
Follow the cable path both forward and back as it travels through the plastic tube guides and then the pulleys front and back. You want to be sure the cable coating isn't coming loose somewhere and that the pathway is clear for the cable.
There is only one motor, its the one right in front of the mechanism. Its a complicated clutch spool, but it can be worked on if need be. I've replaced the cable on mine.
You should make sure the door slides nicely by hand too--lots of debris collects on that lower track that can make it hard to move.
If you can't see any obvious reason the motor would slip, tighten the clutch more get it to work. The motor logic monitors door motion opposed to motor rotation so when it slips, the motor will quit.
John
Follow the cable path both forward and back as it travels through the plastic tube guides and then the pulleys front and back. You want to be sure the cable coating isn't coming loose somewhere and that the pathway is clear for the cable.
There is only one motor, its the one right in front of the mechanism. Its a complicated clutch spool, but it can be worked on if need be. I've replaced the cable on mine.
You should make sure the door slides nicely by hand too--lots of debris collects on that lower track that can make it hard to move.
If you can't see any obvious reason the motor would slip, tighten the clutch more get it to work. The motor logic monitors door motion opposed to motor rotation so when it slips, the motor will quit.
John
richamer1
11-10-2008, 09:55 AM
Thanks for your Help. I have cleaned and inspected everything I can for know. The door has been working fine since Saturday. If I need to adjust the clutch is this done by pushing in and turning the nut counter clockwise with the door fuuly closed ?The adjustment in the hub is the clutch tension. If its started to move the door by adjusting it, then you should be able to correct the problem.
Follow the cable path both forward and back as it travels through the plastic tube guides and then the pulleys front and back. You want to be sure the cable coating isn't coming loose somewhere and that the pathway is clear for the cable.
There is only one motor, its the one right in front of the mechanism. Its a complicated clutch spool, but it can be worked on if need be. I've replaced the cable on mine.
You should make sure the door slides nicely by hand too--lots of debris collects on that lower track that can make it hard to move.
If you can't see any obvious reason the motor would slip, tighten the clutch more get it to work. The motor logic monitors door motion opposed to motor rotation so when it slips, the motor will quit.
John
Follow the cable path both forward and back as it travels through the plastic tube guides and then the pulleys front and back. You want to be sure the cable coating isn't coming loose somewhere and that the pathway is clear for the cable.
There is only one motor, its the one right in front of the mechanism. Its a complicated clutch spool, but it can be worked on if need be. I've replaced the cable on mine.
You should make sure the door slides nicely by hand too--lots of debris collects on that lower track that can make it hard to move.
If you can't see any obvious reason the motor would slip, tighten the clutch more get it to work. The motor logic monitors door motion opposed to motor rotation so when it slips, the motor will quit.
John
merc81
11-10-2008, 11:49 AM
No, its not that simple. You are adjusting the cable tension with that nut. The door needs to be open about an inch. There is a proceedure to follow that I've tried to scan in, but my scanner is on the fritz at the moment. You need to get the two indicators for the cables (left and right) to be at the center of their travel. There is a hole to the left of the center hub that needs to have a 3/8 shaft (use a drill bit backwards) inserted to keep the spools from moving when you push in and adjust the nut.
I'll try again tomorrow with another scanner to post the instruction set.
John
I'll try again tomorrow with another scanner to post the instruction set.
John
merc81
11-11-2008, 08:55 AM
Here is the tension adjustment section on the door. If the images are too big, you can view them directly at
http://cemrweb.cemr.wvu.edu/~mathews/venture/psd4.jpg
and change the filename from psd1 through psd4.
John
http://cemrweb.cemr.wvu.edu/~mathews/venture/psd1.jpg
http://cemrweb.cemr.wvu.edu/~mathews/venture/psd2.jpg
http://cemrweb.cemr.wvu.edu/~mathews/venture/psd3.jpg
http://cemrweb.cemr.wvu.edu/~mathews/venture/psd4.jpg
http://cemrweb.cemr.wvu.edu/~mathews/venture/psd4.jpg
and change the filename from psd1 through psd4.
John
http://cemrweb.cemr.wvu.edu/~mathews/venture/psd1.jpg
http://cemrweb.cemr.wvu.edu/~mathews/venture/psd2.jpg
http://cemrweb.cemr.wvu.edu/~mathews/venture/psd3.jpg
http://cemrweb.cemr.wvu.edu/~mathews/venture/psd4.jpg
richamer1
11-12-2008, 08:19 AM
Thank You this will help alot. Although it looks like I need to grow 2 more hands. thanks again
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026
