Passenger side door will not open from the outside
SuperSaiyan
11-04-2008, 02:43 PM
Like the title says, the passenger side door will not open from the outside but it will open from the inside. I haven't taken the door panels off or looked at it in any detail yet as I'm NOT mechanically inclined. But heck, I fixed the power door locks on my old 93 mustang so nothing is impossible!
Anyone wanna point me in the right direction as to what is up or what to look for / fix?
Thanks!
Anyone wanna point me in the right direction as to what is up or what to look for / fix?
Thanks!
palladrj
11-28-2008, 09:41 AM
I had the same problem with the passenger side door not opening from the outside. I can only tell you what I did, not what is right.
First I removed the panel by removing two screws from around the inside handle; they are easily found. Then I removed two more screws on the lower portion that are near the bottom; these are more difficult to locate. Next, I pried the panel with a large screwdriver by inserting it between the panel and the door. Pry just a little all around to get it started; then a little more until it pops out.
I couldn’t see much after I lifted the insulation; the linkage is difficult to see. Here is where the shade tree mechanical procedure was used. The panel is not metal; it’s fiberglass. With a hacksaw blade, I cut a small piece of the fiberglass toward the door to expose more of the linkage. I had my beautiful assistant pull the handle from the outside in order for me to see what was moving. I observed a black plastic arm moving up and down with the handle. I also pulled the inside handle to see what actually opened the door. Although I could see that something was not connected; I didn’t know where it went.
Knowing nothing about this stuff, I removed the driver’s panel to find where this arm was connected, which I did. Now, back to the passenger door with my newly found working knowledge. I identified the connector, and forced the arm into it. This is not easy. I had to use a long nose vice grip to grip the arm, and force it up and over the connector that actuated the door latch. At the same time I had to force the connector latch downward to insert the arm. Okay, arm connected, door opens from the outside, button up panel.
If you get this far, you may be done. I was not. After a few days, the arm popped out again. Now, I’m upset. I yanked the handle from the outside and heard metal dropping to the floor of the door. Removed the panel again, found the arm broken in base of door. Now, I had to remove the outside handle to reach the arm connecting mechanism. This was a really tough task. There are two bolts securing the handle to the door, which must be removed from the inside. My arms were too large to reach them. Enter beautiful assistant to do the job. These nuts difficult to reach with a wrench; fortunately they were not tight. I removed the handle to discover a broken piece that held the arm in place. If you problem is similar to mine, you will need to replace the handle latching mechanism, or repair it as I did. I’ll send details if you want them. I believe that the arm popping out was related to a bent connector on the door handle, which I finally repaired.
My door has been opened and closed only a few times since then. My fingers are crossed.
First I removed the panel by removing two screws from around the inside handle; they are easily found. Then I removed two more screws on the lower portion that are near the bottom; these are more difficult to locate. Next, I pried the panel with a large screwdriver by inserting it between the panel and the door. Pry just a little all around to get it started; then a little more until it pops out.
I couldn’t see much after I lifted the insulation; the linkage is difficult to see. Here is where the shade tree mechanical procedure was used. The panel is not metal; it’s fiberglass. With a hacksaw blade, I cut a small piece of the fiberglass toward the door to expose more of the linkage. I had my beautiful assistant pull the handle from the outside in order for me to see what was moving. I observed a black plastic arm moving up and down with the handle. I also pulled the inside handle to see what actually opened the door. Although I could see that something was not connected; I didn’t know where it went.
Knowing nothing about this stuff, I removed the driver’s panel to find where this arm was connected, which I did. Now, back to the passenger door with my newly found working knowledge. I identified the connector, and forced the arm into it. This is not easy. I had to use a long nose vice grip to grip the arm, and force it up and over the connector that actuated the door latch. At the same time I had to force the connector latch downward to insert the arm. Okay, arm connected, door opens from the outside, button up panel.
If you get this far, you may be done. I was not. After a few days, the arm popped out again. Now, I’m upset. I yanked the handle from the outside and heard metal dropping to the floor of the door. Removed the panel again, found the arm broken in base of door. Now, I had to remove the outside handle to reach the arm connecting mechanism. This was a really tough task. There are two bolts securing the handle to the door, which must be removed from the inside. My arms were too large to reach them. Enter beautiful assistant to do the job. These nuts difficult to reach with a wrench; fortunately they were not tight. I removed the handle to discover a broken piece that held the arm in place. If you problem is similar to mine, you will need to replace the handle latching mechanism, or repair it as I did. I’ll send details if you want them. I believe that the arm popping out was related to a bent connector on the door handle, which I finally repaired.
My door has been opened and closed only a few times since then. My fingers are crossed.
lalunette
12-23-2008, 03:41 PM
I had the same problem with the passenger side door not opening from the outside. I can only tell you what I did, not what is right.
First I removed the panel by removing two screws from around the inside handle; they are easily found. Then I removed two more screws on the lower portion that are near the bottom; these are more difficult to locate. Next, I pried the panel with a large screwdriver by inserting it between the panel and the door. Pry just a little all around to get it started; then a little more until it pops out.
I couldn’t see much after I lifted the insulation; the linkage is difficult to see. Here is where the shade tree mechanical procedure was used. The panel is not metal; it’s fiberglass. With a hacksaw blade, I cut a small piece of the fiberglass toward the door to expose more of the linkage. I had my beautiful assistant pull the handle from the outside in order for me to see what was moving. I observed a black plastic arm moving up and down with the handle. I also pulled the inside handle to see what actually opened the door. Although I could see that something was not connected; I didn’t know where it went.
Knowing nothing about this stuff, I removed the driver’s panel to find where this arm was connected, which I did. Now, back to the passenger door with my newly found working knowledge. I identified the connector, and forced the arm into it. This is not easy. I had to use a long nose vice grip to grip the arm, and force it up and over the connector that actuated the door latch. At the same time I had to force the connector latch downward to insert the arm. Okay, arm connected, door opens from the outside, button up panel.
This is the exact procedure I followed over the weekend, minus the beautiful assistant. LOL
I did not have to cut away any material and was able to get my hand into the tight spot to manoeuver the linkage back into the appropriate connection.
I did notice that the bottom bolt on the door handle was loose and I suppose this allowed enough play in the handle to pop out the linkage, thus preventing the door to be opened from the outside.
I tightened the nuts on the handle and the linkage has stayed in place so far.
Cheers !!
First I removed the panel by removing two screws from around the inside handle; they are easily found. Then I removed two more screws on the lower portion that are near the bottom; these are more difficult to locate. Next, I pried the panel with a large screwdriver by inserting it between the panel and the door. Pry just a little all around to get it started; then a little more until it pops out.
I couldn’t see much after I lifted the insulation; the linkage is difficult to see. Here is where the shade tree mechanical procedure was used. The panel is not metal; it’s fiberglass. With a hacksaw blade, I cut a small piece of the fiberglass toward the door to expose more of the linkage. I had my beautiful assistant pull the handle from the outside in order for me to see what was moving. I observed a black plastic arm moving up and down with the handle. I also pulled the inside handle to see what actually opened the door. Although I could see that something was not connected; I didn’t know where it went.
Knowing nothing about this stuff, I removed the driver’s panel to find where this arm was connected, which I did. Now, back to the passenger door with my newly found working knowledge. I identified the connector, and forced the arm into it. This is not easy. I had to use a long nose vice grip to grip the arm, and force it up and over the connector that actuated the door latch. At the same time I had to force the connector latch downward to insert the arm. Okay, arm connected, door opens from the outside, button up panel.
This is the exact procedure I followed over the weekend, minus the beautiful assistant. LOL
I did not have to cut away any material and was able to get my hand into the tight spot to manoeuver the linkage back into the appropriate connection.
I did notice that the bottom bolt on the door handle was loose and I suppose this allowed enough play in the handle to pop out the linkage, thus preventing the door to be opened from the outside.
I tightened the nuts on the handle and the linkage has stayed in place so far.
Cheers !!
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