Hello everyone...
Rroxon7
10-31-2008, 05:48 PM
Well it's been a long time sense I've been on the forums....Here's the deal...I'm a proud owner of a 1966 chevy nova...Thats what the tiltle say's...The front end is telling me it's a 67...( Grill, headlights )...Anyway...I don't think it really makes a difference...I bought a 68 SBC out of a camaro...for $100...Now I have a engine to rebuild....Fun stuff.....I had the Heads resurfaced and the valves reseated for $200... The Block has to be bored but not sure how much...The head gasket blew and two cylinders had an 1/8 inch of rust on them....#4 and #8 pistons.....Heads look pretty good now that they've been done.....Next is the Block.....Is it cheaper to do the cam bearings myself or pay the $25 to have the shop do them???...I really would like to rebuild the motor myself but I know there are things I'm not going to be able to do...So your all going to hear alot of me in the future...:loser: Your going to want to shoot me...My next project is to convert my column shifter to the floor...Bought a Hurst...Looks rather easy....But I'll know where to turn if I have any Q....I'm going to thank you all ahead of time for the help your going to give me.....I know....Donations excepted....Haha....Randy..........
MrPbody
11-01-2008, 12:46 PM
Randy,
welcome back..
Disregard my post on your request for info on the shifter change, most of the detail can be gleened out of this one and the one in between...(:-
Since you're going to have the engine out of the car, install the shifter then. The trans will come out with the engine quite easily. Cut the minimum necessary to get the handle up through the floor and have enough room for the "travel". Be sure to replace the clutch while you're in there.
Installing cam bearings requires a special tool that costs about $200. I would suggest just paying the shop to install them. Make certain before you begin assembly, the cam bearings are installed correctly. This is an area of confusion and superstition among Chevy builders. The oil holes for 2-5 should be aligned at 10 o'clock when looking at the front of the engine, with the main saddles "up". This is "by the book", not an assumption or superstition. If the oil holes in the bearings are lined up with the feed holes in the mains, they are WRONG. Number 1 cam bearing has 2 holes in it. One should be just to the right of the feed hole, and the other at about 10 o'clock.
Have the block bored the minimum necessary to "clean" the cylinders. .020" over are the first oversize, and can "save" the block for future builds. The minute amount of CID gained from going .030 or .040 won't gain enough power to make it worthwhile. Pay the extra amount for them to use a deck plate when honing to size. If they don't HAVE a deck plate for the small block, find another shop....
If you really want to assemble the engine yourself, arm yourself with current information. SA Designs has a very good line of step-by-step books ("Car Tech"). Get the one on building performance small blocks.
If you have specific questions during the process, ask away! I'll make sure you get it "right"!
BTW, though I'm a "Pontiac bigot", I really like the '66/'67 Nova styling. IMO, the prettiest of ALL the Chevy offereings of that era. We built a 422 CID small block for one locally a few years ago, that went 9.40 @ 140 through the pipes on DOT tires (250 "hit"). Unfortunately, he wrecked it a couple years ago, but a gorgeous black-on-black '66 hardtop. With the right "goodies", a very good performance car. CHANGE THE BRAKES!!!
Jim
welcome back..
Disregard my post on your request for info on the shifter change, most of the detail can be gleened out of this one and the one in between...(:-
Since you're going to have the engine out of the car, install the shifter then. The trans will come out with the engine quite easily. Cut the minimum necessary to get the handle up through the floor and have enough room for the "travel". Be sure to replace the clutch while you're in there.
Installing cam bearings requires a special tool that costs about $200. I would suggest just paying the shop to install them. Make certain before you begin assembly, the cam bearings are installed correctly. This is an area of confusion and superstition among Chevy builders. The oil holes for 2-5 should be aligned at 10 o'clock when looking at the front of the engine, with the main saddles "up". This is "by the book", not an assumption or superstition. If the oil holes in the bearings are lined up with the feed holes in the mains, they are WRONG. Number 1 cam bearing has 2 holes in it. One should be just to the right of the feed hole, and the other at about 10 o'clock.
Have the block bored the minimum necessary to "clean" the cylinders. .020" over are the first oversize, and can "save" the block for future builds. The minute amount of CID gained from going .030 or .040 won't gain enough power to make it worthwhile. Pay the extra amount for them to use a deck plate when honing to size. If they don't HAVE a deck plate for the small block, find another shop....
If you really want to assemble the engine yourself, arm yourself with current information. SA Designs has a very good line of step-by-step books ("Car Tech"). Get the one on building performance small blocks.
If you have specific questions during the process, ask away! I'll make sure you get it "right"!
BTW, though I'm a "Pontiac bigot", I really like the '66/'67 Nova styling. IMO, the prettiest of ALL the Chevy offereings of that era. We built a 422 CID small block for one locally a few years ago, that went 9.40 @ 140 through the pipes on DOT tires (250 "hit"). Unfortunately, he wrecked it a couple years ago, but a gorgeous black-on-black '66 hardtop. With the right "goodies", a very good performance car. CHANGE THE BRAKES!!!
Jim
wafrederick
11-01-2008, 07:04 PM
Year one does sell the drum to disc conversion kit.Another thing to do is convert it to a rack and pinion with no welding cutting or drilling which Year one does sell also,bolts up with the engine mount bolts.You do have to change the oil pan if you go this way.My father has a 1966 Nova that he bought down in Auburn this year,this one is a SS and is a true SS,checked by the vin which is the way to go.
Rroxon7
11-01-2008, 10:02 PM
Thanks guys....Very nice of you to get back with me.....The 327 I'm building will not be used as high performance but it will be nice to have the extra power...I would like to keep everything stock with matching numbers...If possible...Thanks for hint on the cam bearings...I'll have the shop do it...Cheaper anyway....I'm looking forward to building this from the ground up...Tho It's my first I'll do as much research before making any drastic mistakes....I really would like to put the shifter in now not for me but my wife would find it much easier.. I'm thinking about cutting a section out of the hump with my grinder then replacing it after the shifter's mounted....Then I could leave the trany in when switching engines....Like I said It's my first project car so I'll take any advice with respect from you guys that really know whats going on..Thanks again for your reply...It will be interesting ,,to say the least.....
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