Head Gasket , 2000 Metro

Hello all. I have a 2000 Metro 1.3L, 16V SOHC. I'm removing the head to fix up 1 cylinder which has lost compression. I've ordered a gasket set and it's on it's way. I've started tearing down the motor, getting ready to remove the head. I'm not sure of the socket I need to remove the head bolts. It looks like a 12 PT 11MM socket.I assume that the head bolts are TTY. I haven't removed the timing belt since I haven't quite figured it out. There's a couple more labels on it than on an earlier Metro.The "I" & "E"...intake and exhaust I ass-U-me. I still haven't found the mark on the block & crank gear. I think the block has a small 'knob' on it and the crank gear has a dash on the face .So I assume those need to be lined up.

Am I on the right track? I haven't been able to find a socket yet, no one has a 12pt :screwy: ...geeez.

thanks

Your cyl head bolts are not tighten to yield. The bolts can be reused as long as you clean them up before reinstall, and chase the threads down in the block to clean them up.

You're going to have to remove the camshaft to reach all the head bolts.

You're on the right track.

I didn't have to remove my cam...

OK..I think I figured out the cam timing. I put the crank gear on the mark on the block and removed #1 plug to determine TDC with a thin piece of plastic. It seems there is no mark on the cam gear for TDC. I marked the cam gear gear so I could line it up later. I did have to remove the cam gear since the rocker shaft retainer blocked it. So cam is out and I'm ready to remove the head, once I find a socket.

I may replace the water pump , timing belt & tensioner. The prices I got locally were not too bad compared to online sites when I took shipping into account. Afterall, our dollar did take a dump and is still falling !:crying: Unless someone here has a good parts source.

That's good news to hear the head bolts are not TTY!! It makes life easier and cheaper.:rofl: I'll post some pics of the damage once the head is off. Thanks for the info !

I got all my parts (almost) on ebay. After searching the web forever it was the most affordable option. Waiting sucks though...

There should certainly be a timing mark on the cam sprocket, it's the "E" mark. This just showed up at TeamSwift yesterday, just for you I guess.

http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=40573

The head bolts on every other Suzuki G engine are TTY, I don't see why this one would be any different. Lots of people re-use them but the factory says not to.

Woodie83, thanks for the reply and link. The pictures don't quite look like my setup. The crank pulley mark lines up with a different mark on the block.Mine is about 20 degrees clockwise of straight up. If I determine TDC on # 1 the crank pulley is lined up with the mark but the cam pulley is 1/2 between the I & E marks. Also, the crank pulley has a pin to engage the belt pulley and no index mark.I would ass-u-me that if I line it up as it was before I took it off it should be fine.Kind of too late now, it's off ...lol. I hope to get the head off soon . I think I found a place to buy a 12pt metric socket...woot.

The CRANK pulley has a pin? Usually the cam pulley has a pin (which can be used in either the I or E positions) and the crank pulley has a square key that fits in a slot on the crankshaft and is very prone to shearing, causing the timing marks to be way off just as you describe.

That link is to the proper Factory Service Manual pages, if your engine is different, then something VERY wacky is going on.

Yes it has a pin , a small roll pin like the cam gear has. Is there a simple way to verify if the key has broken? The car ran fine on the drive home. Also, I did verify that the #1 intake/exhaust valves are fully closed because all 4 rocker arms are loose ,which as far as I know means #1 is on compression and TDC. As soon as I get some time from work..ughh...and some decent weather I'll get the head off and try to post a pic of the crank gear. Thanks for your replies. I value the input.


The CRANK pulley has a pin? Usually the cam pulley has a pin (which can be used in either the I or E positions) and the crank pulley has a square key that fits in a slot on the crankshaft and is very prone to shearing, causing the timing marks to be way off just as you describe.

That link is to the proper Factory Service Manual pages, if your engine is different, then something VERY wacky is going on.

I got the head off. I left the intake manifold attached. I found 1 badly burnt exhaust valve in cyl 4 , which was the dead one. I'll take it to the shop and have both exhaust valves replaced and the others checked.So far so good.