B16A Experience
sciamop
03-17-2003, 05:48 AM
DELIVERY
The changeover arrived on 2/25 from Hmotors ; I requested a liftgate on my shipping. I think you'd need a pretty tall hoist to get it off the truck (larger Isuzu Box truck). I think you'd need a loading dock or a long set of steel ramps otherwise. Also the driver was a bit of an @sshole (alas a different story).
Everything was included on the palette: hasport mounts, linkage, engine/trans. All shrink wrapped together. Very nice.
-----------------------------------------------------
PARTS
I purchased the integra bits from acuraautomotiveparts.org and all the civic bits from hondautomotiveparts.com. They are both well-known parts discounters. The one BIG issue I had with the clutch from acura: no clutch alignment tool. I'd recommend going w/ a clutchmasters stage 0 kit in the future: much cheaper AND it includes the alignment tool. Here's my breakdown of parts I purchased:
engine/trans/mounts/linkage $1800 (includes 300 for shipping)
94 Del Sol VTEC timing belt tensioner $48.53
94 Del Sol VTEC thermostat assembly $11.13
94 Del Sol VTEC spark plugs $50.44
94 Del Sol VTEC timing belt $48.1
94 Del Sol VTEC H20 pump $82.55
90-91 Integra ignition wires $45.33
90-91 Integra cap/rotor kit $21.07
90-91 Integra Clutchmasters Level 0 Clutch kit: $212
90-91 Integra Rear engine bracket: $50
94 Del Sol VTEC oil filter: $4
94 Del Sol VTEC Thermostat: $13
90-91 Integra upper/lower rad hoses: $20
90-91 Civic SI hubs: ??? (junkyard, start looking today!)
Ball Joint/tie rod Separator tool (autozone loan-a-tool)
40FT of 18 gauge wire: $2-3
Solder/Soldering Gun: $20
Good set of tools (10mm-19mm sockets/wrenches, screwdrivers, vicegrips, hammer, 12 point 10mm socket, breaker bar etc): $75-$100 (watch for Sears/Craftsman sales).
Engine Hoist: $?? (rental)
12 quarts of oil (you'll only use ~4 quarts): $15
Antifreeze/Coolant: $6
Tub of MP grease: $4
1.8l of Honda MTF: ??? (still need)
Lots of Patience: $???? (get some friends to help!)
-------------------------------------------
INSTALL
COMMENTS: Pretty simple. I did all the prep while the motor was on the floor: timing belt, h20 pump, plugs, wires, t-stat, oil filter.
MOUNTS: Follow the Hasport instructions and the install will be fairly painless (most important: install rear engine bracket while you are lowering the engine). Beat the crap out of the driver's rail. I'd recommend a 20lb sledge for this. The engine sits pretty close (I hope I don't have to change the t-belt again!!!). You will need to remove the alternator to get this monster in. Also there is a little lump in the rail in front of the AC compressor; beat that in a little bit, too. I think the AC can work with the provided bracket (just use the front 2 holes)... Oh yeah, you'll need a 19mm wrench for the hasport bolts.
MOUNT ISSUE: the stock front mount is no longer used, correct?
WIRING: Make sure you have a soldering gun and heat shrink tubing for the rewire. I labeled the ECU end of the wires so I'd be able to simply snip and solder onto the ECU. One issue I came across was that the #2 02 sensor pinout didn't have pinout on the clip! I salvaged one from the cut JDM clips that came with the ecu. You don't need the pin removal tool to do this. Just pull 'em out. Also, the KS wire may need to be shielded if the ECU starts throwing the knock code.
In general, the stock SI harness matched up. In some spots it is a tight fit, though. Make sure ALL your ground wires are attached properly: ground for fuel pump screws into t-stat housing, ground for trans goes from battery to chassis to clutch cable bracket (I think), engine ground connects to the front end at the clutch cover/head. I'm having issues with the starter because of the grounds (I think, read on)
ENGINE: Not much to do here. Make sure you drain the oil out of the engine first. Mine said 'shipped without oil' yet 3.5 quarts of it came out when I removed the drain plug... Refill with 10/30. You'll need to re-install the alternator from below. See above about 'grounds'.
TRANSMISSION: Again, not much to note hear. I am having trouble getting the passenger side axle in (I only spent 5 minutes f'ing with it though). I drained out the old MTF. You'll need to purchase more (1.8l) from the dealer. I tried to modify the existing clutch cable. Didn't work. See above about 'grounds'.
COOLING: I used the rad hoses from a 90-91 teg. They didn't really fit on either end: too small for the engine (solution: heat w/ propane) and too large for the radiator (solution: clamp down)
OTHER COMMENTS: pay close ATTENTION to the intake. The MAP sensor can easily get ripped off if it hits the firewall!
---------------------------------------------------
PROGRESS (3/17)
The car I installed the B16 into is a 91 SI that I purchased from an auction. It didn't run when I got it (actually the top half of the motor was in the trunk!). I was finally ready to try to start the car yesterday!!!! Get in, double check everything. CLICK! CLICK! I ran out and got a battery for the alarm fob. CLICK! CLICK! Rur-Rur-Rur. Wow it almost started! But there was no sound from the fuel pump; bolted down the FP ground. Turn key. Bssssh from behind, good. CLICK! Click! click! click! click! click! click! WTF!
I removed the starter and 'bench tested' it. Works like a champ! I really think my ground wires need to be tightened a little or, possibly, since the front trans mount is touching the body, this is interfering w/ starter operation... Additionally, it has a cheap @ss alarm installed. It is truly a wiring nightmare; I *hope* this isn't the problem. If I can straighten out my starter issues, the car *should* fire up :licker:
Once its running, I'll be able to finish the install in 1-5 hours (axles/suspension/etc)... Hey Julian, sorry I didn't get back to your PM. I never check that sh!t. How'd your swap go?!!
Thanks For Listening,
Todd
The changeover arrived on 2/25 from Hmotors ; I requested a liftgate on my shipping. I think you'd need a pretty tall hoist to get it off the truck (larger Isuzu Box truck). I think you'd need a loading dock or a long set of steel ramps otherwise. Also the driver was a bit of an @sshole (alas a different story).
Everything was included on the palette: hasport mounts, linkage, engine/trans. All shrink wrapped together. Very nice.
-----------------------------------------------------
PARTS
I purchased the integra bits from acuraautomotiveparts.org and all the civic bits from hondautomotiveparts.com. They are both well-known parts discounters. The one BIG issue I had with the clutch from acura: no clutch alignment tool. I'd recommend going w/ a clutchmasters stage 0 kit in the future: much cheaper AND it includes the alignment tool. Here's my breakdown of parts I purchased:
engine/trans/mounts/linkage $1800 (includes 300 for shipping)
94 Del Sol VTEC timing belt tensioner $48.53
94 Del Sol VTEC thermostat assembly $11.13
94 Del Sol VTEC spark plugs $50.44
94 Del Sol VTEC timing belt $48.1
94 Del Sol VTEC H20 pump $82.55
90-91 Integra ignition wires $45.33
90-91 Integra cap/rotor kit $21.07
90-91 Integra Clutchmasters Level 0 Clutch kit: $212
90-91 Integra Rear engine bracket: $50
94 Del Sol VTEC oil filter: $4
94 Del Sol VTEC Thermostat: $13
90-91 Integra upper/lower rad hoses: $20
90-91 Civic SI hubs: ??? (junkyard, start looking today!)
Ball Joint/tie rod Separator tool (autozone loan-a-tool)
40FT of 18 gauge wire: $2-3
Solder/Soldering Gun: $20
Good set of tools (10mm-19mm sockets/wrenches, screwdrivers, vicegrips, hammer, 12 point 10mm socket, breaker bar etc): $75-$100 (watch for Sears/Craftsman sales).
Engine Hoist: $?? (rental)
12 quarts of oil (you'll only use ~4 quarts): $15
Antifreeze/Coolant: $6
Tub of MP grease: $4
1.8l of Honda MTF: ??? (still need)
Lots of Patience: $???? (get some friends to help!)
-------------------------------------------
INSTALL
COMMENTS: Pretty simple. I did all the prep while the motor was on the floor: timing belt, h20 pump, plugs, wires, t-stat, oil filter.
MOUNTS: Follow the Hasport instructions and the install will be fairly painless (most important: install rear engine bracket while you are lowering the engine). Beat the crap out of the driver's rail. I'd recommend a 20lb sledge for this. The engine sits pretty close (I hope I don't have to change the t-belt again!!!). You will need to remove the alternator to get this monster in. Also there is a little lump in the rail in front of the AC compressor; beat that in a little bit, too. I think the AC can work with the provided bracket (just use the front 2 holes)... Oh yeah, you'll need a 19mm wrench for the hasport bolts.
MOUNT ISSUE: the stock front mount is no longer used, correct?
WIRING: Make sure you have a soldering gun and heat shrink tubing for the rewire. I labeled the ECU end of the wires so I'd be able to simply snip and solder onto the ECU. One issue I came across was that the #2 02 sensor pinout didn't have pinout on the clip! I salvaged one from the cut JDM clips that came with the ecu. You don't need the pin removal tool to do this. Just pull 'em out. Also, the KS wire may need to be shielded if the ECU starts throwing the knock code.
In general, the stock SI harness matched up. In some spots it is a tight fit, though. Make sure ALL your ground wires are attached properly: ground for fuel pump screws into t-stat housing, ground for trans goes from battery to chassis to clutch cable bracket (I think), engine ground connects to the front end at the clutch cover/head. I'm having issues with the starter because of the grounds (I think, read on)
ENGINE: Not much to do here. Make sure you drain the oil out of the engine first. Mine said 'shipped without oil' yet 3.5 quarts of it came out when I removed the drain plug... Refill with 10/30. You'll need to re-install the alternator from below. See above about 'grounds'.
TRANSMISSION: Again, not much to note hear. I am having trouble getting the passenger side axle in (I only spent 5 minutes f'ing with it though). I drained out the old MTF. You'll need to purchase more (1.8l) from the dealer. I tried to modify the existing clutch cable. Didn't work. See above about 'grounds'.
COOLING: I used the rad hoses from a 90-91 teg. They didn't really fit on either end: too small for the engine (solution: heat w/ propane) and too large for the radiator (solution: clamp down)
OTHER COMMENTS: pay close ATTENTION to the intake. The MAP sensor can easily get ripped off if it hits the firewall!
---------------------------------------------------
PROGRESS (3/17)
The car I installed the B16 into is a 91 SI that I purchased from an auction. It didn't run when I got it (actually the top half of the motor was in the trunk!). I was finally ready to try to start the car yesterday!!!! Get in, double check everything. CLICK! CLICK! I ran out and got a battery for the alarm fob. CLICK! CLICK! Rur-Rur-Rur. Wow it almost started! But there was no sound from the fuel pump; bolted down the FP ground. Turn key. Bssssh from behind, good. CLICK! Click! click! click! click! click! click! WTF!
I removed the starter and 'bench tested' it. Works like a champ! I really think my ground wires need to be tightened a little or, possibly, since the front trans mount is touching the body, this is interfering w/ starter operation... Additionally, it has a cheap @ss alarm installed. It is truly a wiring nightmare; I *hope* this isn't the problem. If I can straighten out my starter issues, the car *should* fire up :licker:
Once its running, I'll be able to finish the install in 1-5 hours (axles/suspension/etc)... Hey Julian, sorry I didn't get back to your PM. I never check that sh!t. How'd your swap go?!!
Thanks For Listening,
Todd
Jmunk
03-17-2003, 06:38 AM
See if you have spark and fuel, let me now.
jNYCe5
03-17-2003, 06:58 AM
todd, i ran into a little problem with the type r intake manifold so that pushed everything back a couple of days as well as the clutch i ordered...
it should def. be in either tuesday night or wednesday... ima have a big post with lots of pictures so stay tuned for that
it should def. be in either tuesday night or wednesday... ima have a big post with lots of pictures so stay tuned for that
sciamop
03-17-2003, 08:52 AM
I JUST GOT IT RUNNING! Unfortunately the positive battery cable just broke (d@mn 12 year old car). And I don't have any more time to fool around with it today. It also threw a code (didn't check it, though).
JMunk: thanks for your speedy attention!
Jnyce: Hopefully my mini-writeup will help you out a bit. If you have any questions, LMK.
-------
The B16 swap is a pretty fun project. Here's a skills breakdown:
33% Project Management (budget, logistics, supply, scheduling)
33% Technical (turning screws, etc)
17% Research (w/o the Interweb, this wouldn't be much fun)
16% Patience/fortitude/wherewithal
I bet the younguns on this forum could submit it as a science project and earn some credit!
Stay tuned for more news...
Todd
91 Civic SI
JMunk: thanks for your speedy attention!
Jnyce: Hopefully my mini-writeup will help you out a bit. If you have any questions, LMK.
-------
The B16 swap is a pretty fun project. Here's a skills breakdown:
33% Project Management (budget, logistics, supply, scheduling)
33% Technical (turning screws, etc)
17% Research (w/o the Interweb, this wouldn't be much fun)
16% Patience/fortitude/wherewithal
I bet the younguns on this forum could submit it as a science project and earn some credit!
Stay tuned for more news...
Todd
91 Civic SI
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