99 Voyager Window problems

Driver side will not roll up or down? I can hear the power to the motor and the window will move slighly up and down maybe 1/16th the wires will move in and out a bit from the motor unit? I noticed before it stopped rolling up and down it was barley rolling up a bit fast on the way down and then quit a few days later?

If the cables in the window regulator assemble look good meaning not frayed or tangled, you may have a weak motor due to worn brushes. I've read of folks replacing these brushes but, I never have. I just change the entire assembly.

So do I have to replace the whole unit? or does the motor come over seperate?

So do I have to replce the whole unit and assembly or can I replace the motor?? I have looked at the unit and noticed the motor cap or metal top piece comes off? Also do you anything about the back side windows the work every know in then? thanks

I understand you can change just the motor but, I never have. I haven't seen just the motor for sale anywhere but, that doesn't mean you won't find it. Search the threads and send a PM to someone who has changed a motor.

Your rear vents are probably the same story. Worn brushes in the motor. No regulator there. Just the motor. Check using a multimeter to make sure.

Thanks so much for the info i just got the van from a friend.....Everything seems good maybe a slight slip in the tranny which I heard is common thing to go out?? So i ahve to replace the window reg and motor seems like a hard job to do :( U ssem to know alot....My a/c is blowing warm air? Does that mean i have to just but some freon in?? the valves in the engine where the freon goes i pushed both and no air came out? ( if that makes sense) thanks again

Your A/C is out of refrigerant, vacuum and maybe oil. You need a complete service to include drawing a vacuum, checking for leaks, and reservicing with refrigerant and oil. When they service it make sure they put a dye in the system so you can detect future leaks.

First step in most tranny problems is changing the fluid and filter. Make sure you use ATF4 fluid.

My passenger side heater vent blows cold air only driver side is ok? help?

Well, it's time you started posting your van issues as seperate threads. The problem is, when people search for a particular problem they look at the subject line, in your case "window problems". If they are looking for A/C or climate control problems they won't read your thread and miss the info posted there. Please do everyone a favor and post your vent problem in a new thread. Cheers!

how do u remove power window regulator and fit new 1, dvrs side right.

how do u remove power window regulator and fit new 1, dvrs side right.

I've done both doors of my '96. One last year, the other just last week. What would you like to know or have you solved the problem already? I can say it's not a "hard" job, just finicky in that things fit sort of fussy and that is why it's time consuming, at least for me. My second door went much easier after learning from the first! :smile:

Thanx for the reply,
no havent done it yet, still trying to source the part here in australia for less then the $900aust from chrysler or the $400aust from non genuine parts or $190aust for reconditioned parts. Hope to have the part by fri so i can do it on this weekend. Know how to remove the door panel, just need to know how to remove the old and refit the new from there

Dazza

WOW!!!! Those prices are insane! I just went to my local junk yard and took my tools and took apart the door of the van in the yard and got each one for $30....one last year and then this year....$60 total. I would do that if possible since taking a buddy w/ you and getting that one out will help you a LOT in getting yours out and replaced. OR, I would find an online source that will ship to you. Those prices are nuts.

Gosh, for a lot less than that I could ship you TWO brand new replacement ones from the U.S.!

In general terms:

1. It helps if the window is down half way to help you access the mounting mechanism that holds the window onto the regulator system.
2. Use a screwdriver and remove the spring steel clips on each metal rail where the window mounts. They are right near the glass and you should be able to see them if the window is down part way. Look at where the window mounts onto the regulator system. The window has a male nipple on the glass and it fits into the female hole on the plastic piece that rides up/down on the metal rail. Once the clips are removed you can easily get the window off the rails. These clips have to be removed. Remove them horizontally. The window is now "loose" and will now slide up/down but you will have to lift it if you want to move it up. Not heavy.
3. If not already done, unplug pwr connectors to door panel and motor.
4. Remove the 3 or 4 bolts holding the motor on the door. These were a pain for me to do because there is a big rubber piece on the back side of the door frame that functions as a damper/anti-squeek to help the bolt stay tight and the motor not rattle. You will need special torq drivers from the auto store. Std allen wrench did not work for me. I also used long needle nosed vice grips on the back side of the bolts and clamped the living snot out of the rubber molded nut so it would not turn on me. For some reason this was a real time consuming part of the job for me.
5. Remove 4 bolts holding metal rails onto the door.
6. Have fun getting the rails out of the door. I did. I believe it worked best to do the left one first and the the right, and each one had to have the bottom end of the rail removed first. i.e. bottom left rail, then entire left rail, then bottom right and finally entire RH rail.

7. Install is basically reverse, but not exactly. You will want to be sure the plastic pieces that ride on the rails are NOT at the top of the rails for the install. Trust me, you want them down half way. DO NOT install them if they are at the very top because you will prob have problems like I did. If you really want to know, I can tell you, but would rather not. Just be sure the plastic thingy's are near the middle of the rails (for your sanity).

If this is the sort of info you are looking for, let me know. I am tired of typing now and will be going to bed. I will check tomorrow for any more posts. There is more you should be aware of if you would like more info.

ok thanx, that shuld do it for now, chat later

To anyone that finds their power windows either weak,intermittant or not working at all, I found the brushes to be the problem. Because I didn't fancy paying for new regulators and Chrysler don't sell the brushes, I had a go at modifying readily available brushes for either any starter or alternator, etc. As long as it has a copper braid attached, any set of brushes can be filed down carefully to the right size, and the braid can have a spade connector crimped or soldered to allow reinsertion into the regulator. It worked for me.

To anyone that finds their power windows either weak,intermittant or not working at all, I found the brushes to be the problem. Because I didn't fancy paying for new regulators and Chrysler don't sell the brushes, I had a go at modifying readily available brushes for either any starter or alternator, etc. As long as it has a copper braid attached, any set of brushes can be filed down carefully to the right size, and the braid can have a spade connector crimped or soldered to allow reinsertion into the regulator. It worked for me.

Hey thanks for the update. Ya it's usually worn brushes creating the headaches. Most just change the motor or the whole window regulator assembly to avoid the hassle of finding and changing the brushes. Was it a hassle to get the motor open? Can you pass on the details? I think you'd be the first to reveal the mystery. Many have window problems. Changing brushes is a much cheaper alternative especially in this economy.