1999 Isuzu Rodeo with some troubles - RPM flux/idle stalling/wont start

Hey guys, any help on this issue would be great! Thanks.

Vehicle: 1999 Isuzu Rodeo V6 4WD

Problem:

1) RPM fluctuation
2) Stalls at idle
3) Car will not start anymore

Before I drove from Colorado to Florida, I had the car checked out by two different people and had the oil changed, fluids topped off, timing belt replaced, spark plugs replaced, along with a tune up. These problems did not begin until over a month after I had this work done and the first day I arrived in Florida. The only fluid change I have seen is the coolant (an inch less than max). Below is a detailed explanation of what I have observed.

Problem began with a rpm fluctuation at idle along with stalling occasionally. This problem worsened to where the vehicle would stall out every time I would go idle for an extended time at a stop light and also when coming to a stop with the clutch pressed in. A couple of days ago, my battery died and I then replaced it. I had the battery and alternator tested and both where fuctioning properly. This new battery lasted for about a day and seems to have died just from having the car parked. I have plenty of power inside the car and can run my stereo, gps, lights, etc, but the car will not even attempt to start. The most I can get is maybe a single click sound.

I have read that some of these symptoms are a result of a bad intake manifold gasket. However, why would a bad IMG be killing my battery, or is my battery issue the result of something else going wrong?

"seems to have died..."
Get a multimeter and check the voltage across the battery terminals to see if the battery is, in fact, dead. If the voltage is good, I suspect you just have a bad starter.

Willdo. I actually just got a jump today... twice. The battery is definitely not holding a charge. I have had batteries and alternators go out on every single car I have owned that wasnt new. I just haven't had symptoms like Ive had with this car. Right now I'm thinking and hoping it is just the alternator and the chick at Autozone just doesn't know how to test a battery.

Curious to know the outcome. Read up on alternators in this forum to avoid some common headaches when replacing them. Check the battery cables and all connections for corrosion, too.

If you just bought that battery...take it back and exchange it. Could've been bad from the word go, but it will eat up your alternator too, if you keep using it.

The rpm fluctuation is caused from the truck trying to up the voltage it's receiving, the dying during idling is because there is no rpm rise/load to increase voltage within the system.

You have a voltage issue.

Your alternator, under a load, should be putting out 14v, your battery should be spitting out 12v.

Also, check your battery terminals, before you go any further....you'd be amazed how many get left loose or wiggle loose and cause issues.

So here is what happened today. I got another test done on the battery and alternator and both cleared again. Battery was putting out around 12v or more and the alternator was putting out close to 14v (around 13.7) and 160 amps. I still got the battery swapped just in case anyway, but my truck sucked the life out of it in about 15 min. It also stalled twice coming back and wouldn't restart the second time. Whatever the problem is, it is getting worse and worse.

Do you guys think it might be the alternator even though it was checking out as good? Right now I'm at a loss and can only guess I have some type of short in something or my electrical system is seriously jacked up right now. What do you guys think? :banghead:

If your alt is anything LESS then 14v's it's on it's way out.....could be an intermitent issue that's just sucking the life out of your battery.

BTW, WHAT kind/quality of battery are you buying, do not buy just the minimum requirement.....what's the CCA?

Also, a good alt will run you around $170 or so, you need to by ONLY a Napa, Isuzu, Hitchi, do NOT purchase just any alt.