1995 jimmy front differential

I've been reading your posts and trying to figure out why my front differential won't engage. The driveline from the transfer case is working since I cannot turn it when the 4 wheel is engaged. But I disconnected the cable from the vacuum actuator and pulled it out about a 1/2" and tried to spin the right wheel with my foot, which I could. So I'm guessing something went in the differential.

Is that difficult to repair? The cheap repair manual doesn't even talk about it and I can't find anything online on "how to" repair this. It can't be that hard. I've replaced and rebuilt motors before but never a differential.

Does anyone know where I can find that info?

my front dif went on me too. but it made a grinding noise( almost like a bad hub bearing). i think a new one was like two grand, i bought one from a junkyard for $300 and put it in myself. no intructions so i may have done some things i didnt have to do. but the whole front end had to come down. lower control arms and everything. took me 12 hours on my back in 11 degree weather. i think the book called for 10-11 hours.. im just a shadetree mechanic tho. no training. seems to be working fine now.(now i need a trnasfer case lol:mad: good luck. o by the way i was also working a 2000 i doubt much changed on the chassis in 5 years tho.

What was the other wheel doing?
The cabel should have a little more pull.
Does the pan cake diaphragm do anything when in 4W or 2W
Does the cable have any feel to it?
To get it to lock in you may have to turn drive shaft a little or spin the other wheel at same time.
The teeth on axel gears have to match up to spline in.

This link may help.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=572914

It doesn't have much vacuum at the actuator, maybe 2 in Hg. I was hoping that was all it was. I'll try messing with it some more like you suggest before I try a 12 hour repair. I want to get this done before the 15 degree weather sets in. Thanks.

my front dif went on me too. but it made a grinding noise( almost like a bad hub bearing). i think a new one was like two grand, i bought one from a junkyard for $300 and put it in myself. no intructions so i may have done some things i didnt have to do. but the whole front end had to come down. lower control arms and everything. took me 12 hours on my back in 11 degree weather. i think the book called for 10-11 hours.. im just a shadetree mechanic tho. no training. seems to be working fine now.(now i need a trnasfer case lol:mad: good luck. o by the way i was also working a 2000 i doubt much changed on the chassis in 5 years tho.

You weren't wrenching outside in 11 degrees were ya'? Cause if you were you're the manly type. I love the cold, but stayin' warm in that is hard just turnin' a wrench. http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/images/smilies/freezing.gif

Takes a shovel to keep me warm at that temp!!!:eek:

It doesn't have much vacuum at the actuator, maybe 2 in Hg. I was hoping that was all it was. I'll try messing with it some more like you suggest before I try a 12 hour repair. I want to get this done before the 15 degree weather sets in. Thanks.

In 4W it should switch to full engine vacuum.
If not look for the reason why.
Does it get engine vacuum to transfer case vacuum switch valve and the switch to the actuator in 4W?
Try jumping/running full engine vacuum to actuator for a test.
Good Luck

Ok. I'll try those things before tearing into that differential.

And, yes, I've done the snow and cold thing: crawling around on my back in the snow. Sometimes you have to do that out here in Ohio's snowbelt. It's that or walk up the drive in 2 foot drifts. Done that too.

Thanks.