traction bars

So... I know what they do, but do traction bars replace the front cross member on our cars?

Can they be made from aluminum tube? Or would that not be such a good choice?

I'm considering borrowing one from a friend's project when he gets it and fabbing up my own... save me about 300 for a name brand one, about 200 for a ebay copy.

Since there are three holes on each end, I assume they bolt in place of something already attached? The OEM tow hooks?

Yes most attach to the hook location, and yes they do replace the front cross member, some with front tranny mount and some do not have.

If your looking to fab your own, weirtech sells a kit with cnc cut bracketry, all you really need is the pipe, which should be STEEL. Also youll need swedged tubes for the adjustable links.

As you can see ive done a bit of research on the topic :P

I have two sites but this is the cheaper one. Only problem with these is that they are standard, meaning you then buy standard heim joints..and you have a 12mm bolt.. find your own way make to make up the spacing difference.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2090,102_Swedged-Steel-Sleeves-1and2andquot;-Thread.html?itemNo=1/2%20heim

This guy has TONS of reputation on homemadeturbo as well as turbod16.

http://weirtech.ca/

Finished product
http://i33.tinypic.com/1zynog.jpg

The actual mounts have rings on them... new towhooks to replace the ones you took off to mount the thing?

Thanks for the link/info, I'll check it out, but I'm pretty much planning on fabbing my own. I don't like buying kits that come with all the stuff already in them, and you just paste it all together and call it your own work. I'd rather cut all my own pieces, and that way I can add my own personal touches to them, and make it Mine :)

BTW, I can tell you the reason for using swaged tubing...

When you swage tubing down, you're essentially forging it to a smaller size, same reasoning behind why forged pistons are stronger than cast pistons.

You take a piece of tubing that starts out as 1/2" I.D., for example, 1/8" wall (3/4" O.D.). If you cut threads into the 1/2" I.D. of mild steel tubing, they'll rip back out with very little force, and work warp over time. Swage that same tubing down to 3/8" I.D., you've essentially made rotary folds over the entire O.D. surface, which is now 5/8" O.D. (still has 1/8" wall).

Those rotary folds actually change the dynamic properties of the steel, making it stronger in more than one direction, and more able to withstand the stresses of movement and vibration without tearing away from itself.

As you can see, this is one of many jobs that I've had... I used to make wire rope products and flexible shaft/driveline components. (I still work w/ that company right now trying to produce a nice bonus piece for our cars.)

Swaging was a large part of my job, as well as zinc die-cast and forgings.

I might have to get some flanges and such from that guy for a few projects...

Like that Ford IHI/RHB5 downpipe flange... I have that turbo...

Oh, what's the weight on the whole thing when it's finished? I'm hoping it's lighter than the stock crossmember and track bars.

It likely is. But I couldn't say for sure. And yes now that you point it out, it does have holes to retain some property of the tie down hook.