1999 Chevy Blazer
Trapper243
10-03-2008, 09:14 PM
I just bought a 1999 Chevy Blazer LS 4x4,4.3 vortec.....Great looking rig,had it less than a week now and already I have the following problem....
Sometimes it starts sometimes it don't..If it doesn't start right up on the first try.I try it 4 or 5 more times than have to let it set 20 or 30 minutes then at the touch of the key it takes right off.Does this while hot and cold,I'm at a loss as this is my first Blazer.
It's been lady owned and operated since new and she really has looked after it,with repairs on just about everything.I really thought this would be a good reliable rig,now with less than a week as it's new owner I'm ready to sell it.Anybody know what might be wrong or where to start looking?Thanks.
http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u350/Jaws-N-Claws/Blazer.jpg
Sometimes it starts sometimes it don't..If it doesn't start right up on the first try.I try it 4 or 5 more times than have to let it set 20 or 30 minutes then at the touch of the key it takes right off.Does this while hot and cold,I'm at a loss as this is my first Blazer.
It's been lady owned and operated since new and she really has looked after it,with repairs on just about everything.I really thought this would be a good reliable rig,now with less than a week as it's new owner I'm ready to sell it.Anybody know what might be wrong or where to start looking?Thanks.
http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u350/Jaws-N-Claws/Blazer.jpg
Trapper243
10-03-2008, 09:16 PM
Forgot to mention ,I have changed out the fuel filter,didn't help matters at all.So I guess that wasn't the problem
Trapper243
10-05-2008, 02:47 PM
Guess nobody has any ideas,over 500 thousand members and nobody has a clue what might be wrong?
dewaynep
10-06-2008, 08:13 AM
Could be a lot of things. First thing to do is a serarch on this board for "no start", second thing is to check if you are getting fuel and spark when it won't start. Third, if you are getting spark is to check fuel pressure and bleedoff. These engines are very particular with fuel pressure, under 60 psi and you won't get it to start. Do these things first, then check back with us.
MT-2500
10-06-2008, 01:17 PM
Guess nobody has any ideas,over 500 thousand members and nobody has a clue what might be wrong?
Give us time.
Good wine like good repair info takes time.
500K members does not say you are going to get 499.99 answers.
While you are waiting run a search on hard to start as suggested.
And check for lose of spark or fuel pressure when hard to start.
What is the mileage and mileage on tune up end?
On checking fuel pressure end.
The only true test on a fuel pump is to check the direct fuel pressure from fuel pump.
A quick test is to block off the return line and see if fuel pressure comes up to 75-85 lbs.
But do not run the pump at full pressure very long.
Also when testing fuel pump and pressure you need to tape a gauge to outside windshield or outside mirror and drive it on the road for 20 -30 minutes
until the pump gets has run a while to check for a pump fading out after hot.
Hard to start cold or hot and fuel pressure testing guide lines.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system.
Post back fuel pressure readings.
Give us time.
Good wine like good repair info takes time.
500K members does not say you are going to get 499.99 answers.
While you are waiting run a search on hard to start as suggested.
And check for lose of spark or fuel pressure when hard to start.
What is the mileage and mileage on tune up end?
On checking fuel pressure end.
The only true test on a fuel pump is to check the direct fuel pressure from fuel pump.
A quick test is to block off the return line and see if fuel pressure comes up to 75-85 lbs.
But do not run the pump at full pressure very long.
Also when testing fuel pump and pressure you need to tape a gauge to outside windshield or outside mirror and drive it on the road for 20 -30 minutes
until the pump gets has run a while to check for a pump fading out after hot.
Hard to start cold or hot and fuel pressure testing guide lines.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system.
Post back fuel pressure readings.
Trapper243
05-09-2009, 08:07 PM
Well 7 months later and I've replaced the following items on my new found money pit.
Both front hubs and wheel bearings $260 each
idler pully $53
intake manifold gasket $172
battery $125
4 distributor caps and rotor button $213
both rear shocks $125
rear brake pads $53
4 tires $550
Plus some other samller ticket items,and now need a heater switch and 2 ball joints.I so love this rig:banghead:
Both front hubs and wheel bearings $260 each
idler pully $53
intake manifold gasket $172
battery $125
4 distributor caps and rotor button $213
both rear shocks $125
rear brake pads $53
4 tires $550
Plus some other samller ticket items,and now need a heater switch and 2 ball joints.I so love this rig:banghead:
Trapper243
05-09-2009, 08:11 PM
ps......I still have the same starting troubles.Also forgot the coil at $103.Dodge is looking better all the time
mike2004tct
05-09-2009, 09:18 PM
ps......I still have the same starting troubles.Also forgot the coil at $103.Dodge is looking better all the time
What's the fuel pressure, key on - engine not running.
What's the fuel pressure, key on - engine not running.
djd99
05-10-2009, 10:46 AM
ps......I still have the same starting troubles.Also forgot the coil at $103.Dodge is looking better all the time
It sounds like you just like to throw parts at your new truckie but I assure you this it not a good practice, most likely you have a bad fuel pump taking a crap but you have to do some proper testing to find out for sure. And for the most part, the hubs and ball joints usually need replacing every 100,000 miles on these trucks. I don't know where your getting your parts as I just replaced my hubs and I only spent 100 bucks a side doing the labor myself. Now I'm going to do my ball joints at 90,000 miles witch I spent 60 bucks for lifetime ball joints so These will be the last ones I buy just like the brakes all around my truck, I spent the money once now everytime I need brakes and rear calipers there free. Just some food for thought.
It sounds like you just like to throw parts at your new truckie but I assure you this it not a good practice, most likely you have a bad fuel pump taking a crap but you have to do some proper testing to find out for sure. And for the most part, the hubs and ball joints usually need replacing every 100,000 miles on these trucks. I don't know where your getting your parts as I just replaced my hubs and I only spent 100 bucks a side doing the labor myself. Now I'm going to do my ball joints at 90,000 miles witch I spent 60 bucks for lifetime ball joints so These will be the last ones I buy just like the brakes all around my truck, I spent the money once now everytime I need brakes and rear calipers there free. Just some food for thought.
b1lk1
05-10-2009, 01:35 PM
How many times do I need to repeat to the SAME Americans that parts in Canada cost easily twice as much as they do in the states. Please pay attention to where the people are before you preach as to how cheap you got your parts for. Also, they do not offer the lower quality lines of parts up here, we generally only have the top end and OEM lines available. I am an American (mechanic) and when I got here (I am in Canada now) I was astounded as to the huge difference in the price/quality of auto parts. Add to that there is no such thing as a lifetime guaranty on anything here. Usually, any US part that does have a lifetime guarantee is a lower grade since it costs the company little to replace when they fail. I learned that fact as I was a manager of an Auto-Zone store for 4 years before I moved to Canada.
As to the original poster, these trucks are not cheap to own. They require frequent maintenance and as you found out, parts are not cheap. If you truly need a sport utility then they are one of the better trucks to own. Otherwise, you may want to consider a car. I bought my truck since I tow a 2000lb camper as well as a utility trailer for other jobs.
Lastly, you really need to check that fuel pump. If it cannot hold 60PSI+ pressure with the key on/engine off it is most likely bad. If you have a bad heart you may want to be sitting down when you price a new pump since they go for HUGE money here. Stay away from Airtex garbage, they fail quick. A good AC Delco/Delphi pump is easily $500+ depending on where you get it.
As to the original poster, these trucks are not cheap to own. They require frequent maintenance and as you found out, parts are not cheap. If you truly need a sport utility then they are one of the better trucks to own. Otherwise, you may want to consider a car. I bought my truck since I tow a 2000lb camper as well as a utility trailer for other jobs.
Lastly, you really need to check that fuel pump. If it cannot hold 60PSI+ pressure with the key on/engine off it is most likely bad. If you have a bad heart you may want to be sitting down when you price a new pump since they go for HUGE money here. Stay away from Airtex garbage, they fail quick. A good AC Delco/Delphi pump is easily $500+ depending on where you get it.
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