Some questions

I've finished painting a body... I want to clearcot it because it's a racing one so please someone put in chronological order the things I have to do now.

1.Compound
2 panel lines
3 applying decals
4 window trimming
5 clearcoating

Can i clearcoat with ts-13 over decals and acrylics paints?

No, you cannot use TS-13 over acrylics. It can be used over decals, but it must be applied in thin slow mistcoats, and allowed to outgas between coats.

As for order of the other operations, it depends on what you're building and how you build. For instance, window trim is sometimes best done before clearcoat and sometimes best after.

Unless you can tell us exactly what you're planing to do, what you're planing to use, and how you're planning to use it, a 'fixed order' is nonsense.

I was planning to use tamiya acrylic black for window trimming. So I have to spray it after clearcoat.
But the question is if I have to be aware because of decals when clearcoatin
Which kinda paint have I to use for panel lines?
And have I to compound the body before clearcoatin? It is not metallic and not so much orange peeled.
You can see the WIP thread of this fujimi racing supra on motorsports wip

What kind of paint did you use on the body (acrylic what)?

If the paint is in good shape, don't mess with it. The last layer of metallic paint should never be sanded/polished before clearcoating.

Personally I never paint panel lines (I personally don't think it comes out well). The best order for it would depend on what you're using, and what you're applying it on.

No, on the body I used a tamiya spray can, do you suggest to window trim after clearcoatin?
I have not so much orange peel, but a little bit yes, and also 4 or 5 bubbles near to the door that need to be sanded (right)?
Hope won't sand too much till arrivin to the primer...

I've finished painting a body... I want to clearcot it because it's a racing one so please someone put in chronological order the things I have to do now.

1.Compound
2 panel lines
3 applying decals
4 window trimming
5 clearcoating

Can i clearcoat with ts-13 over decals and acrylics paints?

1 decals
2 clear coat
3 compound
4 window trim
5 panel lines

That's the way I would do it.If the window trim is matt or satin finish and you do it before the clear it will end up gloss finish when you clear coat it.Compound the whole thing once the decals are on and the clear.You can polish it all in one go then to a finish.

So by now I just polish a bit to remove some imperfections, right?
BTW thanks to both of you

If the metallic colour has orangepeel or imperfections, sand them very gently with the finest abrasive you can find. Then overcoat spray one last time with a very light mistcoat of colour. Once the colour is as perfect as you think you can make it, let it overnight. Apply the decals, and leave them at least overnight to dry. Then begin applying clearcoat. This must be done in many light mistcoats, and leave plenty of time (an hour or two) between coats. If you do not leave time for the solvents to outgas, they will attack the decals and destroy them- TS13 must be applied with great patience.

Give the clearcoat a week to harden, then polish and wax. Mask the window trim, and rough them up a bit with fine abrasive. Spray the trim, unmask, and cleanup with polish and wax if necessary.

Ok, thank you so much.
What da you mean for mistcoat?
Which kind of clear does not destroy decals? (maybe finisher's gp1?)

Instead of heavy wet coats, lacquers behave best in light coats. Instead of spraying paint like rain, think of spraying it like fog. Build it up slowly. Warming the can before spraying in hot water increases the propellant pressure, and makes it easier to apply in light coats. It takes more time and effort than spraying quick heavy wet coats, but the results are superior, and it's much safer both for the paint and the decals. (If you spray TS13 heavily on metallics, it can destroy the paint under it.)

Just sell your TS 13 on eBay and buy some Gunze Mr Top Coat instead :D

This is what they mean by mist coat. (ignore the green lines.)
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/550%20maranello/p7270017.jpg

FYI, the photo is from this thread: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=433893

Notice the paint doesn't hide the primer at all? You basically end a painting (or clear-coating) session like this, wait until the paint dries, then repeat the process several times.

Paint contains solution, and if you apply too much, the solution will attack the underlying paint (or decals). The idea of mist coat is to let the solution "evaporate" before it begins affecting the underlying coat or decal. Once you build a protective layer, you'll be able to start applying a bit more at a time, but I don't recommend doing a full wet coat regardless. This method will take time, but will also reduce the risk of ruining your paint job.

As for panel lines, since you are using synthetic lacquer (aka, solvent-based acrylic), use enamel or water-base acrylic. They won't attack lacquer paint.

Which kind of clear does not destroy decals? (maybe finisher's gp1?)

Finisher's GP1 is good over decals and also the Finisher's Auto Clear as well as Gunze Top Coat, Zero 2K and 1K.For the first time using clear over decals the Gunze Top Coat is pretty good stuff.It gives a nice finish and is very forgiving on the decals.You can lay it on quite heavily and it still won't harm your decals.One other thing if you are using any base coat paints metallic or solid colour that dry with a flat/matt finish you need to apply a light coat of clear over these before you decal for 2 reasons 1 to seal the colour layer and 2 to prevent silvering of the decals.Decals will work better on a sealed, glossy surface rather than a rough surface.
I agree with MPWR just be careful with metallics and leave them overnight before clear coating or you can destroy the finish.Tamiya TS 13 although it has it's loyal users I can never get good results with it and I end up destroying my decals or paint finish.There are better clear coats in my opinion that are easier to use and safer to both your paint job and your decals.
I am also a great believer in using the same brand of paint for painting the bodyshell.I always use Tamiya primers in the aerosol cans and more recently Zero basecoats for all the main colours.I think if you stick to the same brand of paint you know that they will work well together and it just minimises the risk of adverse reactions between different brands and types of paints.For all the other painting on a model though I use many brands and usually go with the paints that suit my needs or the ones I know will do the best job in any given situation, instead of sticking to a chosen brand.But for painting a body I stick to the same brand throughout.It just eases the painting for me to know that the paints I am using will work well together because they come from the same brand.

It seems that i can't find a Gunze clear on ebay and also nope on Hlj, where to try?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Gunze-Sangyo-Mr-Super-Clear-UV-Cut-Gloss-GNZ-B522_W0QQitemZ220240772915QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p 3286.m20.l1116

WHat's this one?

It seems that i can't find a Gunze clear on ebay and also nope on Hlj, where to try?

you can buy it here for example: http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=421

http://cgi.ebay.com/Gunze-Sangyo-Mr-Super-Clear-UV-Cut-Gloss-GNZ-B522_W0QQitemZ220240772915QQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p 3286.m20.l1116

WHat's this one? Mr. Super Clear is solvent-based acrylic, essentially the same as Tamiya spray.
Top Coat has a blue label with "TOP COAT" clearly written, like this one.
http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=421
Top Coat is water-based acrylic, which is gentle on decals.