1996 Ford Taurus No Start Problem, Blown Ign. Fuse
fw31100
09-21-2008, 08:20 PM
We have a 96 Ford Taurus that has blown a Ignition Fuse. I drove the car and it was fine, I stopped a few places and then went and got gas. I went to crank the car and it acted like it wanted to turn over but wouldn't and then the doors locks locked and unlocked. I took the key out and put it back in and nothing. It made no sound, no air conditioner, and no ignition lights in dash, but all other electrical worked(radio, windshield wipers, etc). We got it home and realized the Ignition Fuse(Maxi Fuse, in fuse box under hood) that controls the blower motor and ignition switch was blown. We put a new one in and turn the key and had air and ignition lights on dash, went to turn motor over and it blew the fuse again.
We are really not sure what the problem is and how to determine what is bad. We have looked up alot of info and read that it could be anything from the starter, starter relay, ignition switch and some other things.
My husband did unhook the wire going to the starter solenoid and put in a new fuse and it blew the fuse, does this mean anything? Does this mean its not the starter or starter solenoid?
Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated.
Farrahhttp://www.ford-forums.com/images/smilies/set5/confused5.gif
We are really not sure what the problem is and how to determine what is bad. We have looked up alot of info and read that it could be anything from the starter, starter relay, ignition switch and some other things.
My husband did unhook the wire going to the starter solenoid and put in a new fuse and it blew the fuse, does this mean anything? Does this mean its not the starter or starter solenoid?
Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated.
Farrahhttp://www.ford-forums.com/images/smilies/set5/confused5.gif
shorod
09-21-2008, 11:08 PM
Welcome to the forum!
There are two fuses in the engine compartment fuse panel that are 40A and for the ignition, location numbers 3 and 5. There is a separate fuse in that fuse panel for the blower motor, fuse 11. It is also a 40A fuse. Fuses 3 and 5 go to the ignition switch, so I suspect it is one of those two fuses that blew but since the blower only works when the key is on ACC or Run, you are saying that the fuse controls the blower motor as well.
Fuse 5 is the only one that is connected when the key is in Run or ACC, so I suspect that is the fuse that blew. Also, of the two circuits in the ignition switch that are supplied by fuse 5, only one leg of the ignition switch is tied to Run and ACC, the other leg is only tied to the Run position.
This circuit then supplies two additional fuses in the instrument panel (I/P) fuse panel via the black/light green wire. The two fuses in the I/P fuse panel are fuses 19 (15A) and 20 (5A). Fuse 19 would seem to only be relevant to the wagon and not the seda. Fuse 20 supplies the Generic Electronic Module (GEM), the Remote Anti-theft Personality (RAP) module, the Integrated Control Panel (ICP) and the Cellular phone transceiver (optional). Since it ties in to the RAP and GEM, that probably explains the locks cycling.
If Fuse 19 is installed in the I/P fuse panel, you might start by removing that fuse as it doesn't appear to power anything in the sedan anyway (is for the liftgate wipers and washers on the wagon).
Depending on if you own a test light or find a test light for cheaper than a bag of Maxi Fuses, you may want to consider putting a test light in place of the blowing Maxi Fuse. If there is enough of a current draw on the circuit to blow the Maxi Fuse, the test light will glow at full intensity, but will not blow and will not allow enough current to the shorted device to cause further damage.
Next, remove Fuse 19. If the fuse still blows/test light on full brightness, then the only other device in the circuit is the ignition switch and wiring. If you assume that the wiring is not pinched or frayed somewhere, then you probably need a new ignition switch. If the light dims or the fuse doesn't blow, then the problem is in the GEM, RAP, or ICP (expecting that you don't have the integrated cell phone). You can unplug each of these modules one at a time to determine which one is causing the problem.
-Rod
There are two fuses in the engine compartment fuse panel that are 40A and for the ignition, location numbers 3 and 5. There is a separate fuse in that fuse panel for the blower motor, fuse 11. It is also a 40A fuse. Fuses 3 and 5 go to the ignition switch, so I suspect it is one of those two fuses that blew but since the blower only works when the key is on ACC or Run, you are saying that the fuse controls the blower motor as well.
Fuse 5 is the only one that is connected when the key is in Run or ACC, so I suspect that is the fuse that blew. Also, of the two circuits in the ignition switch that are supplied by fuse 5, only one leg of the ignition switch is tied to Run and ACC, the other leg is only tied to the Run position.
This circuit then supplies two additional fuses in the instrument panel (I/P) fuse panel via the black/light green wire. The two fuses in the I/P fuse panel are fuses 19 (15A) and 20 (5A). Fuse 19 would seem to only be relevant to the wagon and not the seda. Fuse 20 supplies the Generic Electronic Module (GEM), the Remote Anti-theft Personality (RAP) module, the Integrated Control Panel (ICP) and the Cellular phone transceiver (optional). Since it ties in to the RAP and GEM, that probably explains the locks cycling.
If Fuse 19 is installed in the I/P fuse panel, you might start by removing that fuse as it doesn't appear to power anything in the sedan anyway (is for the liftgate wipers and washers on the wagon).
Depending on if you own a test light or find a test light for cheaper than a bag of Maxi Fuses, you may want to consider putting a test light in place of the blowing Maxi Fuse. If there is enough of a current draw on the circuit to blow the Maxi Fuse, the test light will glow at full intensity, but will not blow and will not allow enough current to the shorted device to cause further damage.
Next, remove Fuse 19. If the fuse still blows/test light on full brightness, then the only other device in the circuit is the ignition switch and wiring. If you assume that the wiring is not pinched or frayed somewhere, then you probably need a new ignition switch. If the light dims or the fuse doesn't blow, then the problem is in the GEM, RAP, or ICP (expecting that you don't have the integrated cell phone). You can unplug each of these modules one at a time to determine which one is causing the problem.
-Rod
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