A couple of LFC issues
Shalee89
09-17-2008, 12:46 PM
Ok I am sorry if these issues are already covered elsewhere. I did search but may just using the wrong terms.
Car is a 1992 Ford Taurus SHO 3.0 24 valve DOHC
Issue 1: Airbag flashing intermittently. Code 12 Not too worried about it but it is a bit annoying. Would like to fix it if it is something I could try myself. Otherwise will take it to a dealer eventually.
Issue 2: More pressing and serious I believe. Antilock brake light. Planning to check alternator belt tension since only other time that I know of that it came on was when the alternator went out. (I have only had the car a couple months)
This time 70 miles from home taking my daughter back to school and come up a hill around a curve and down to a redlight. When I took off the light came on. I figured I had triggered it and it would go off. Ran find no problems, no stuttering no problems braking. Started to head home and watched for codes and it flashed a 44 I believe. Release parking brake start forward and light switches to solid. Nursed it home parked it for 3 days. Try it out yesterday on the way to work. Start up no codes take off stall the car and restart light flashes code 22(?) then 44. Drove mile and half to work with light solid. Start to come home from work codes flash 43, 61, 63 no 22 or 44. Light just flashes when I am idling before starting to move forward. never in reverse and always switches to solid as soon as I start forward. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Will be taking it to dealer when I can afford it since I no longer trust the mechanic I had been using for the last 15 years (long irritating story but after having 2 vehicles screwed by him or more accurately one of his crew not going back) Meanwhile any parts or repair I can do myself I would like to do before taking it to the dealer since they wanted 700 to replace the alternator which I did myself on a sunday afternoon. I mean 200 part and a couple hours of my time was a lot better than 700.
I would love to get all the kinks out of this car soon since my daughter plans to take it to school after Thanksgiving break.
Thank you in advance for your time and knowledge.
Car is a 1992 Ford Taurus SHO 3.0 24 valve DOHC
Issue 1: Airbag flashing intermittently. Code 12 Not too worried about it but it is a bit annoying. Would like to fix it if it is something I could try myself. Otherwise will take it to a dealer eventually.
Issue 2: More pressing and serious I believe. Antilock brake light. Planning to check alternator belt tension since only other time that I know of that it came on was when the alternator went out. (I have only had the car a couple months)
This time 70 miles from home taking my daughter back to school and come up a hill around a curve and down to a redlight. When I took off the light came on. I figured I had triggered it and it would go off. Ran find no problems, no stuttering no problems braking. Started to head home and watched for codes and it flashed a 44 I believe. Release parking brake start forward and light switches to solid. Nursed it home parked it for 3 days. Try it out yesterday on the way to work. Start up no codes take off stall the car and restart light flashes code 22(?) then 44. Drove mile and half to work with light solid. Start to come home from work codes flash 43, 61, 63 no 22 or 44. Light just flashes when I am idling before starting to move forward. never in reverse and always switches to solid as soon as I start forward. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Will be taking it to dealer when I can afford it since I no longer trust the mechanic I had been using for the last 15 years (long irritating story but after having 2 vehicles screwed by him or more accurately one of his crew not going back) Meanwhile any parts or repair I can do myself I would like to do before taking it to the dealer since they wanted 700 to replace the alternator which I did myself on a sunday afternoon. I mean 200 part and a couple hours of my time was a lot better than 700.
I would love to get all the kinks out of this car soon since my daughter plans to take it to school after Thanksgiving break.
Thank you in advance for your time and knowledge.
shorod
09-17-2008, 09:17 PM
It's normal for the ABS light to stop flashing (stay on solid) after blinking out the codes. This is probably so it doesn't distract you while driving.
The airbag code 12 means "Low battery voltage." How old is the battery? Maybe the alternator failed due to a weak battery that overworked the alternator, or the old alternator was malfunctioning and damaged the battery. Do you have a voltmeter that you can use to check the battery voltage with the engine off as well as when the engine is running?
ABS code 22 would indicate "Open or short-circuit -- LH front inlet valve, wire harness or damaged anti-lock brake control module."
ABS code 44 indicates "Missing sensor signal -- LH rear sensor (missing rear brake anti-lock sensor indicator)."
ABS code 43 is "Missing sensor signal -- RH rear sensor (missing rear brake anti-lock sensor indicator)."
ABS code 61 means "Short circuit to ground -- FLS #2 or wire harness."
ABS code 63 states "No pump motor speed sensor signal during initial check at 19 mph, wire harness or damaged anti-lock brake control module."
I'm no expert in the airbag or ABS systems, so I'm not sure what to suggest as a starting point for these codes. There's a chance a new brake control module would fix all the issues, but that would be an expensive experiment. It seems like maybe you should inspect the connections to the ABS computer to make sure they are clean and tight. Also inspect the wiring harness for frays, corrosion, or evidence of damage. Make sure the ABS brake control module has a good ground to it. With the array of intermittants you are experiencing, it seems like something a bad ground could be responsible for.
-Rod
The airbag code 12 means "Low battery voltage." How old is the battery? Maybe the alternator failed due to a weak battery that overworked the alternator, or the old alternator was malfunctioning and damaged the battery. Do you have a voltmeter that you can use to check the battery voltage with the engine off as well as when the engine is running?
ABS code 22 would indicate "Open or short-circuit -- LH front inlet valve, wire harness or damaged anti-lock brake control module."
ABS code 44 indicates "Missing sensor signal -- LH rear sensor (missing rear brake anti-lock sensor indicator)."
ABS code 43 is "Missing sensor signal -- RH rear sensor (missing rear brake anti-lock sensor indicator)."
ABS code 61 means "Short circuit to ground -- FLS #2 or wire harness."
ABS code 63 states "No pump motor speed sensor signal during initial check at 19 mph, wire harness or damaged anti-lock brake control module."
I'm no expert in the airbag or ABS systems, so I'm not sure what to suggest as a starting point for these codes. There's a chance a new brake control module would fix all the issues, but that would be an expensive experiment. It seems like maybe you should inspect the connections to the ABS computer to make sure they are clean and tight. Also inspect the wiring harness for frays, corrosion, or evidence of damage. Make sure the ABS brake control module has a good ground to it. With the array of intermittants you are experiencing, it seems like something a bad ground could be responsible for.
-Rod
Shalee89
09-20-2008, 05:22 PM
Rod,
Thank you for your time. I will start checking things out in the morning. I have a Chilton manual so tonight I will read up on the brake control module location and brake sensor locations and map out a plan for checking them out. Husband and son are on a fishing trip this weekend so I have time on my hands to work on the car. lol
I'll probably have the battery tested since I didn't replace it when I did the alternator and it had been totally drained. The battery was bought last august when the first alternator was replaced. But I have never had good luck with Autozone batteries anyway. The man I bought the car from gave me the receipts when I found I needed to replace the alternator again. And I probably need to go back to the dealer and have the belt tension checked since I didn't have access to a belt tension gage when I replaced the alternator. don't have a voltmeter but I think a friend of mine does. If not I'll check around.
Thank you for your time. I will start checking things out in the morning. I have a Chilton manual so tonight I will read up on the brake control module location and brake sensor locations and map out a plan for checking them out. Husband and son are on a fishing trip this weekend so I have time on my hands to work on the car. lol
I'll probably have the battery tested since I didn't replace it when I did the alternator and it had been totally drained. The battery was bought last august when the first alternator was replaced. But I have never had good luck with Autozone batteries anyway. The man I bought the car from gave me the receipts when I found I needed to replace the alternator again. And I probably need to go back to the dealer and have the belt tension checked since I didn't have access to a belt tension gage when I replaced the alternator. don't have a voltmeter but I think a friend of mine does. If not I'll check around.
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