Blower motor not working

The blower motor stopped working in my 2000 Grand Marquis. I replaced the motor and it still doesn't blow.

There is voltage going to the motor. What should be a ground wire coming from the blower doesn't test as ground. When I spliced another wire to it and ran it to the battery ground I blew out the fuse to the blower.

Why no ground? Why did grounding what should be ground blow a fuse?

Thanks for any leads.

you shouldn't have to ground it. it should all ready be grounded when you plug it in and it also should be grounded when you atach moter to car.sounds like blower has a short in it. get another moter from salvage yard or new if you can aford it? plug it in before installing and see if your moter is fryed.

merc1
I had this happen to me also (blower not working ) It was not the motor. there is a sensor in the airconditioning duct work by the motor under the hood. its a pain to get out . Its a known problem at any GOOD dealer. I think the part was 25 to 40$ Check it out .

I have changed the resistor but with power I think you have a bad motor. If you have power to the blower motor use a small hammer and tap the motor if it starts running get another motor.

merc1
I had this happen to me also (blower not working ) It was not the motor. there is a sensor in the airconditioning duct work by the motor under the hood. its a pain to get out . Its a known problem at any GOOD dealer. I think the part was 25 to 40$ Check it out .


Thanks for the quick help.

Changed the motor and still doesn't work. Then I went back and found that the old motor works if I connect it directly to the battery.

Sounds like you're right about it being the sensor. But I looked and didn't see any sensors by the motor. How far inside the duct work is it located? I can't trace either of the blower motor wires to a sensor. They disappear going into the passenger compartment.

We have a rotten dealer here. In the past they wanted $800 for a module in a Lincoln when another dealer told me it was only a $180 repair.

If possible I like to do it myself.

If you have manual AC not climate control its located top right center of safety wall. The resistor changes voltage for speed regulation of blower speed. The ground is behind left cowl panel near door sill. I would check this out as you said you have power.
Go to dealer parts and ask for the part then ask to look at the screen so you can see where its installed. The install a micro film with the part number and a breakdown where its located. Usually you have no speed regulation when it goes. Try other speeds and check if it works.

If you have manual AC not climate control its located top right center of safety wall.

Climate control. Does that have the resistor or is it built into the automatic climate control?

My mitchell goes to 2000 but only has a 1999 wiring diagram. On the manual system the fan switch bypasses the resister on high speed. This is why scrapper1 and I thought it would work with power. This system uses a blower motor speed controller. Top right center of firewall on evaporator assembly.
You have an EATC module power train control module. I would check the ground first behind right kick panel near door sill.
Otherwise ask way2old but I'm not sure police cars use this system.
I would go to Ford parts they will tell you what usually goes bad as they sell more of these. I would try a scrap yard as the blower speed controller probably is expensive.

Look at the Crown Vic forum for instructions on taking the dash apart. This will make it easier to find the part. Otherwise look through the hole where the blower goes, Stick your hand in and you should be able to feel in in the top of the case. As it takes a five pronged plug feel along the top for a set of wires going to it.

merc1

you said you have climate control, I looked at my grand marquis and got the part number of the module I had to replace. I dont mean to step on any toes here but Ill give you the facts as I see them. If you open your hood and stand by the passenger side front tire look towards the firewall. DIRECTLY behide the rightside valve cover is where the module is, on the ductwork going into the firewall. Right next to it is the dip stick for the transmission. You'll have to remove the two hoses that pass over the module. One of the screws tha hold the module is even harder to get at. You'll have to disconnect the electrical connetion also. I hope my advice helps keep you from all the dismantling the other posters say may be needed. Let us know how it goes. I couldnt read the fisrst character of the part number but I think the parts person only needsthe middle and last numbers.

Part# ?73-19E624-AA

I found this post dated 5-26-07 which seems to back up my other post Good Luck
I read in another forum where some Ford tech at a local dealer was replacing tons of Ford basic part # 19E624 which seems to be known as the blower speed controller. I took a chance and purchased one and replaced mine; it fixed the problem and now the A/C will blow your hat off!

Let me tell you though that this was an absolutely "miserable" module to replace. It is under the hood sandwiched below the two heater hoses and underneath the vapor mangement valve and secured with two 8 mm screws. What should have been a 10 minute job turned into a 2-3 hour miserable job thanks (once again) to the forward-thinking engineers at Ford Motor Company. I don't know what those automotive engineers were smoking but it must have been damn good!

I did read somewhere that if this blower speed controller needed replacement, that something else (like the blower motor itself) may have been the real culprit. Anyone else have any opinions about this?[/quote]

Is this a $20.00 part or worth a trip to a scrap yard? Although the trouble you had I would put in a new one.

I have an 03. I had the saem problem. Motor worked fine when I hooked up to 12V on my bench.

There is a transistor with a huge heat sink on it inside the duct to the right of the motor left of center of the centerline of the motor back against the firewall.

It has aluminum insulation covering ariund it. There are two or three screws to remove and then you have to work it out. Also there is a wiring connector to remove. Getting the old one out is not too bad. Getting the new one in is a bit tricky, but with patience and some serious grimacing you can do it. It took me about 90 minutes going very slowly and carefully and I still dropped a screw down into the back of the engine area. Luckily it fell to the ground.

Buy a new one from the dealer. This part fails and I believe the new part is a replacement for the old one and has an improved design. I think it cost me about $50. No problems since then about 18 months ago.