Dex-cool or the cheap stuff?

I'm about to flush my rad(2002 sonoma 4x4) and was wondering if I need to use the Dex-Cool for the flush part, or can I use the cheap stuff?

use the Dex-Cool for the flush part,
Usually you can flush the system with water, even if you are using a flush additive. Then refill with the coolant of your choice. You dont need to use ant-freeze for the flush itself.

the problem is, the rad is pretty filthy. I need to use the prestone cleaner and run it for a while before I fush it.

As long as you are completely flushing the system use the cheap stuff. Keep in mind that the cheap stuff has to be serviced more often but the Dex-cool needs to be serviced more often than the factory recommends also. Keeping it in there for that long did more damage than good.

With the use of DexCool, I would use a good cleaner like Prestone or something similar. The problem is that when DexCool is left unserviced for a long period of time, it can develop sludge, and if there is an issue with air getting into the cooling system, such as through a faulty radiator cap, sludge can be a result. I flush out the cooling system on my vehicles and then do a series of flushes with plain water to remove as much of the old coolant/cleaner as possible. Keep in mind you really can't get it all out by this process, but you can dilute the remaining mixture enough to be fairly safe.
Is this the first cooling system service for this vehicle? As what was stated previously by airjer, you need to service a DexCool system sooner than what GM has recommended. I do mine at a 3 yr / 36,000 mile interval. This way you can keep a good eye on the condition of the system and perhaps nip any problem or issue before it gets out of hand.

I bought the truck three years ago. I assume the coolant hasen't been flushed. I have noticed sludge on the rad cap and the coolant is brown.
I think I'm gonna have to do this more than once. I've got the proper cleaner, I've got the kit and I've got distilled water. My question is; can I run the cleaner with cheap coolant for a few days before I fush and use the dex-cool? and by the way,
THANKS A-LOT
ZJB-400

The only problem with using cheap coolant ,even temporarily can cause problems down the road when any remnants of the "cheap coolant" mix with the DexCool. When non-OAT coolant mixes which DexCool, sludging can result, and it can also lessen the protection package that is in the DexCool for your engine. Can you schedule a time, perhaps a good portion of a day to do this all at once? You could run the cleaner in the engine per manufacturer's directions and then flush it a few times right after before installing the new coolant. It also might be a good time to inspect and replace your radiator pressure cap with a new one. It is a low cost "insurance policy" against a defective or old cap which could let air into your cooling system. The Stant brand caps have been reported to be a good replacement for your old one.

If your flushing every 3/36k why not just switch to the green stuff?

I think you would be better off running straight water with the cleaner rather than mixing the two. I realize its only a couple of days but I think diluteing the problem would be a better choice. Granted you dont' get a hard freeze in the next couple of days? :eek:

If your flushing every 3/36k why not just switch to the green stuff?
Because DexCool and other OAT type coolants were made for these modern engines. They offer the proper protection package for the various materials that make up the engine. Here is a link that explains part of the reason:http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com/search/label/Dex-Cool. As I've said before in some of my posts, "Why use a 20th century coolant in your 21st century technology engine?" DexCool and other similar coolants are the recommended coolant for these vehicles. If the manufacturer recommended you use 5W30 oil in your engine, would you use 20W50 instead?

Ya know what? I'm just gonna stick with the Dex-cool, It's not that I'm trying to save a lot of money, but hey! A beer is a beer. I'll let you know how I made out.
Thanks Again

Ya know what? I'm just gonna stick with the Dex-cool, It's not that I'm trying to save a lot of money, but hey! A beer is a beer. I'll let you know how I made out.
Thanks Again
That is good. Too many times I've seen vehicles in the shop where the owner tried to save a little bit by using something else in place of what should have been used, and many times it ended up costing more to rectify the problem it caused.

Because DexCool and other OAT type coolants were made for these modern engines. They offer the proper protection package for the various materials that make up the engine.

Thats why Dexcool is such a fine and superior product that never has any issues? Give me a break! How many lower intakes have to be replaced because they are pitted or heads for that matter? Thats some protection if you ask me! I'm not even talking about high mileage vehicles, I have had them with as little as 80k with intakes and heads pitted so bad there was nothing we could do but replace them!

why spend the extra cash to only to do the work as often as you would with the cheap stuff. I have literally converted thousands of cars to the green stuff over the years and have continued to service them over the years and found no ill effects from the regular green coolant. If you want to believe whatever these clowns in lab coats come up with so they can put some extra cash in there pockets thats your business, but it is nonsense! I can redirect you to some websites that claim that we never went to the moon or that there are ancient ruins on mars, but that doesn't mean its true!

As far as the 5w30 vs 20w50 thats an invalid argument. A more realistic argument would have been sythetic versus conventional

Not only that but it will be cheaper to add the green stuff, when the water pump fails, When the intake gasket starts leaking, and the radiator fails.

Thats why Dexcool is such a fine and superior product that never has any issues? Give me a break! How many lower intakes have to be replaced because they are pitted or heads for that matter? Thats some protection if you ask me! I'm not even talking about high mileage vehicles, I have had them with as little as 80k with intakes and heads pitted so bad there was nothing we could do but replace them!
The issue is not with the DexCool but with the materials being sub-standard and failing prematurely. I've run DexCool in my GM vehicles that are supposed to run it without any issues. I've seen hundreds more in the shop without any issues. The trick...properly maintaining the coolant. If DexCool was so bad don't you think that it would have been pulled off the market by now? When problems occur, the ones who it happens to tend to be the most vocal, while the ones who have no issues tend to be quiet, so you really don't know a true percentage of "issues" with the millions of vehicles where DexCool was installed from the factory.

If you want to believe whatever these clowns in lab coats come up with so they can put some extra cash in there pockets thats your business, but it is nonsense! I can redirect you to some websites that claim that we never went to the moon or that there are ancient ruins on mars, but that doesn't mean its true!
I don't base my recommendations on 'clowns in lab coats' but rather day in and day out experiences and research. DexCool was developed, (along with other coolants now on the market for other makes of vehicles) as the next generation of coolants designed for newer, modern engines.If you want to put the greenn stuff in your car and go back in time ...that's your perogative.

As far as the 5w30 vs 20w50 thats an invalid argument. A more realistic argument would have been sythetic versus conventional
Actually the synthetic vs. conventional is not the valid argument as more vehicles are coming from the factory with synthetic oil, and it is also an "allowable "oil that can be used in place of conventional. Besides, using synthetic oil has it's own bonuses over conventional but that is for another thread. Some can even liken using synthetic to using Dex Cool as it is formulated for modern engines and has properties which make it better than the "old" product (conventional oil).My argument was using the other weight of oil (the 20W50 over the recommended 5W30) can harm an engine just as using the ethylene glycol over the DexCool.

Not only that but it will be cheaper to add the green stuff, when the water pump fails, When the intake gasket starts leaking, and the radiator fails.
And then when the new water pump fails down the road because you used the green stuff instead, how much "cheaper" will it be when you have to replace it once again, and add the extra labor costs to R&R the unit which is high on some vehicles.
:popcorn:

The issue is not with the DexCool but with the materials being sub-standard and failing prematurely.

Thank you for making my point for me. Its funny how all the other auto manufacturers are switching to higher life coolants and not having any of the problems GM has. Its funny how the other manufactures are using very similar gaskets and not having any of the problems. So if the problem lies with the poor quaility of the parts than it doesn't matter what coolant you have in the vehicle the parts are still going to fail and its still going to cost money!

I think if you looked, the real world is starting to smarten up with these GM products and starting to realize there is no benefit to using dexcool in these systems. After cooling systems have been repaired many are converted to conventional coolant with no ill effects short or long term. I know this for a fact as the many of thousands of coolant flushes I have done over the years. It doesn't matter what coolant you use the poor design of the engines will continue to rob you blind. You might as well go with green until GM comes out with a bigger and better product.

Sorry but Dexcool has deservingly received a bad rap. Do yourself a favor and switch to the green and save some hard earned cash. You'll need it to fill the tank and take care of the other repairs you will need to make in the future!

Where I come from, everybody drives a GM product. Nobody could really answer my question when it pertained to using cheap stuff, because regular maintanence is exactly what it is. Do the pm work and you'll get the life you deserve. Nobody I have recently talked to say's go green. They say; stick with what came with the truck. You're both probably right in one way or another but I don't want to turn into a mediator. All I WANTED TO KNOW, IS CAN I RUN THE CHEAP STUFF FOR A FEW DAYS WHILE THE CLEANER DID IT'S JOB and I got the answer I was looking for.
So, Thank you Airjer
and Thank you '97ventureowner
It's twenty after two in the morning and I'm going to bed.
Good night (GLUG GLUG)

About the only thing the two of us will agree on is DON'T MIX THE TWO TOGETHER and you'll be much better off! :nono:

Well my drain plug is plugged. Can I add the cleaner to the existing dirty coolant before I flush? I don't want to make a mess of my drive way and my engine if I don't have to.

If its really dirty why not flush the entire system with water then add the cleaner then do the flush with coolant. You may end up having to give a couple of goes anyways because they can get so dirty!

Otherwise yes you can add the cleaner to the old coolant. At our shop we use Wynns flush products. We attach the flush hoses, add the cleaner, let run for 5 to 10 minutes, and then flush.

Either way you will likely be doing it a couple of times to get it clean.

With the drain plug "plugged", this means I have to do it the messy way. I was hoping the prestone cleaner would break away and help clear the drain plug but good news, I unplugged the drain plug. How you ask? I started the truck hoping the pressure would help, and it did, then I removed the rad cap. My rad is drained. I will continue tomorrow. I can say a lot of really bad words about the drain plug on my Sonoma, but I won't. I just wish it was the same set up as my 97 Jimmy.

Thats why Dexcool is such a fine and superior product that never has any issues? Give me a break! How many lower intakes have to be replaced because they are pitted or heads for that matter?

The pits you reference are caused by cavitation in the cooling system caused by air in the system due to low coolant level. Low coolant level was either caused by an undiagnosed leak or improper fill or poor maintenance. Don't blame the pits on Dex-cool. I have a 97 Monte Carlo with 225000 miles, a 99 Sonoma with 135000, and a 01 Yukon with 150000, all with dex-cool and all with all the original heads, intakes, blocks, and radiators.