blower resistor replacement
notimprezed
09-11-2008, 04:20 PM
A few notes to anyone who is thinking of doing this.
Save the headache and go to the dealer.
But to the stubborn. You can use a 5.5mm socket for the front screw. You will need a 5.5mm wrench to loosen the right rear screw. The left rear screw cannot be reached by either. It is completely blocked by the resistor and the sound deadening. I could barely even squeeze a finger between the two and it is at such a spot the you cannot put a tool on it. At this point do what I did but don't recommend. Grab it and rip it the F out. At this point I notice the factory one and parts store one look incredibly different (the resistor part that is, the connectors are the same (although the wire that goes to the blower comes out from a different spot) as was the screw layout). The factory one is shorter and wider and looks like a circuit board. The aftermarket one was narrower and taller and looked like the crap you played with in physics class. At this point I went back to the store to confirm it was the right one. They said it was so I went home and put it in. Before I put it in though I loosened the rear left screw I couldn't get to before so it would slide in a little better. I put the front screw back in then tightened down the right rear screw as best I could. LR screw will be forever loose. Blower now works and the high setting doesnt blow out the fuse anymore. It was a little squeeky when first fired up but the noise went away after a minute. I would guess the 9 months of no use was the reason.
Save the headache and go to the dealer.
But to the stubborn. You can use a 5.5mm socket for the front screw. You will need a 5.5mm wrench to loosen the right rear screw. The left rear screw cannot be reached by either. It is completely blocked by the resistor and the sound deadening. I could barely even squeeze a finger between the two and it is at such a spot the you cannot put a tool on it. At this point do what I did but don't recommend. Grab it and rip it the F out. At this point I notice the factory one and parts store one look incredibly different (the resistor part that is, the connectors are the same (although the wire that goes to the blower comes out from a different spot) as was the screw layout). The factory one is shorter and wider and looks like a circuit board. The aftermarket one was narrower and taller and looked like the crap you played with in physics class. At this point I went back to the store to confirm it was the right one. They said it was so I went home and put it in. Before I put it in though I loosened the rear left screw I couldn't get to before so it would slide in a little better. I put the front screw back in then tightened down the right rear screw as best I could. LR screw will be forever loose. Blower now works and the high setting doesnt blow out the fuse anymore. It was a little squeeky when first fired up but the noise went away after a minute. I would guess the 9 months of no use was the reason.
rncotton
10-14-2008, 01:51 PM
Been there, done that. Fortunately, my aftermarket resistor had the same layout as the OEM. That 3rd screw, I pulled back the carpeting and noise damper material, handed the tiny micro-socket wrench to my wife, and said "Get that last one for me, will ya?"
10 minutes later, after much swearing on her part, and the screw was loose enough to turn by hand and remove.
10 minutes later, after much swearing on her part, and the screw was loose enough to turn by hand and remove.
brcidd
10-14-2008, 05:56 PM
I've probably done 40 or 50 of those in my life- they are not that bad- just know to use a 5.5 mm and swivel socket- and never take the back two screws completely out- the resistor board is slotted for a reason- I usually just press hard into the sound deadening material to get extra room- Heck, I have done at least a dozen in the parking lot at work at lunch- just to help out my co-workers.
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