serpintine belt squeeks
GAT
09-08-2008, 11:00 AM
Any idea why this happens after about a month of being replaced. I have replaced three just because after about 40 days or so they just start squeeking. Anything you can spray on them just dries out within minutes. Usually starts after a rain or humid day...once it starts I cannot get it stop without replacing it.
GAT
GAT
Airjer_
09-08-2008, 11:04 AM
Take the belt off, rub a little di electric grease on it sparingly. Put it back on so it turns the opposite direction that it did before you took it off. Di-electric grease is a wonderful stop squeal that either a lot of the time.
Something else to consider is that your tensioner may be week an not holding the belt tight enough.
Something else to consider is that your tensioner may be week an not holding the belt tight enough.
GAT
09-08-2008, 11:07 AM
Take the belt off, rub a little di electric grease on it sparingly. Put it back on so it turns the opposite direction that it did before you took it off. Di-electric grease is a wonderful stop squeal that either a lot of the time.
Something else to consider is that your tensioner may be week an not holding the belt tight enough.
I WILL TRY THAT TONIGHT THANK YOU. Is there a way to test the tensioner, I do know the belt is not flopping around. Can the altinater be adjusted or is the tensioner the only adjustment.
gat
Something else to consider is that your tensioner may be week an not holding the belt tight enough.
I WILL TRY THAT TONIGHT THANK YOU. Is there a way to test the tensioner, I do know the belt is not flopping around. Can the altinater be adjusted or is the tensioner the only adjustment.
gat
Airjer_
09-08-2008, 11:13 AM
The automatic tensioner is the only adjustment. Make sure you are getting the right belt also. I believe there is a belt option for two different alternator sizes.
You didn't post a year or engine size. There are a couple of things to look for. The year and engine would help.
You didn't post a year or engine size. There are a couple of things to look for. The year and engine would help.
GAT
09-08-2008, 12:29 PM
The automatic tensioner is the only adjustment. Make sure you are getting the right belt also. I believe there is a belt option for two different alternator sizes.
You didn't post a year or engine size. There are a couple of things to look for. The year and engine would help.
The truck is 2001 2500 HD 6.0
I did make sure the belt was the correct one. I had heard rumor of some pully alignment posibilities, but how would anyone fix that. I picked up the dialectric grease today and will try that tonight.
You didn't post a year or engine size. There are a couple of things to look for. The year and engine would help.
The truck is 2001 2500 HD 6.0
I did make sure the belt was the correct one. I had heard rumor of some pully alignment posibilities, but how would anyone fix that. I picked up the dialectric grease today and will try that tonight.
Airjer_
09-08-2008, 12:43 PM
Are you sure its not the A/C belt that is making noise? If there was an alignment issue you would be able to see the edges of the belt fraying or you would see the belt not quite riding in the center of a pulley. You may also notice that a ring of rust has started on either the inside or outside of a pulley. These would be to clues as to something mis-aligned.
GAT
09-08-2008, 12:48 PM
Are you sure its not the A/C belt that is making noise? If there was an alignment issue you would be able to see the edges of the belt fraying or you would see the belt not quite riding in the center of a pulley. You may also notice that a ring of rust has started on either the inside or outside of a pulley. These would be to clues as to something mis-aligned.
No I am not sure, I do know when I replace the belt it goes away, with maybe just a hint of cherp...BUT the AC belt looks pretty bad and has never been replaced. It has bad cracking and looks weathered. 140,000 miles on it. Is there a trick to getting to that belt and what is it that I loosen to remove it? As you know it's way at the bottom with a gaurd or skid plate under it.
I have no fraying at all, and no rust build up.
GAT
No I am not sure, I do know when I replace the belt it goes away, with maybe just a hint of cherp...BUT the AC belt looks pretty bad and has never been replaced. It has bad cracking and looks weathered. 140,000 miles on it. Is there a trick to getting to that belt and what is it that I loosen to remove it? As you know it's way at the bottom with a gaurd or skid plate under it.
I have no fraying at all, and no rust build up.
GAT
Airjer_
09-08-2008, 12:53 PM
it has an auto tensioner as well. I believe a 3/8" ratchet will work. There is not a lot of tension on it so it will move fairly easily. As far as getting at it. Once you have the main belt off you can either access it from the top or take of the skid plate and do it from the bottom. It is easier to do from the bottom but takes more time. I have done so many I just do them from the top to save time.
GAT
09-08-2008, 01:04 PM
it has an auto tensioner as well. I believe a 3/8" ratchet will work. There is not a lot of tension on it so it will move fairly easily. As far as getting at it. Once you have the main belt off you can either access it from the top or take of the skid plate and do it from the bottom. It is easier to do from the bottom but takes more time. I have done so many I just do them from the top to save time.
I will stop and get one tonight, one other question does it matter if it's Napa, Auto Zone or Dealer as in GM, he replaced belts on a different vehicle style and the belt would start squeeking after a few weeks until he went to the dealer...which by the way the dealer told him it would happen.
GAT
I will stop and get one tonight, one other question does it matter if it's Napa, Auto Zone or Dealer as in GM, he replaced belts on a different vehicle style and the belt would start squeeking after a few weeks until he went to the dealer...which by the way the dealer told him it would happen.
GAT
Airjer_
09-08-2008, 01:12 PM
I have never had a brand name belt give me a problem. I have always used either Dayco or Gates and have been happy with there performance. This is likely a situation where something is not quite right but it is not yet obvious to what the malfunction is.
The only time I like to use dealer belts is on the imports. Especially hyundai, kia and honda CRV's which are prone to crank sensor codes with aftermarket alternator belts.
The only time I like to use dealer belts is on the imports. Especially hyundai, kia and honda CRV's which are prone to crank sensor codes with aftermarket alternator belts.
GAT
09-08-2008, 01:23 PM
I have never had a brand name belt give me a problem. I have always used either Dayco or Gates and have been happy with there performance. This is likely a situation where something is not quite right but it is not yet obvious to what the malfunction is.
The only time I like to use dealer belts is on the imports. Especially hyundai, kia and honda CRV's which are prone to crank sensor codes with aftermarket alternator belts.
I will try the AC belt tonight or tomorrow and let you know. Thank you for all your replies.
gat
The only time I like to use dealer belts is on the imports. Especially hyundai, kia and honda CRV's which are prone to crank sensor codes with aftermarket alternator belts.
I will try the AC belt tonight or tomorrow and let you know. Thank you for all your replies.
gat
GAT
09-09-2008, 01:45 PM
SQUEEKY BELT ISSUES
I did both last night removed serpentine belt and lightly added dielectric grease to it as AIRJER directed me to do on a earlier post, although by the time I was done farting around putting it back on I lost 90% of it. I also replace A/C belt for the first time at 141,000 miles per his request, as expected it was cracked and nasty looking. By the way unless you are a professional contortionist remove the skid plate on the bottom and replace the belt from under the truck...WOW was that easier than from the top. As of today not a sound to be heard. So either the grease is doing its job or the belt was the issue all along...or both. Either way thank you all for helping me out once again!!!
GAT
I did both last night removed serpentine belt and lightly added dielectric grease to it as AIRJER directed me to do on a earlier post, although by the time I was done farting around putting it back on I lost 90% of it. I also replace A/C belt for the first time at 141,000 miles per his request, as expected it was cracked and nasty looking. By the way unless you are a professional contortionist remove the skid plate on the bottom and replace the belt from under the truck...WOW was that easier than from the top. As of today not a sound to be heard. So either the grease is doing its job or the belt was the issue all along...or both. Either way thank you all for helping me out once again!!!
GAT
Airjer_
09-09-2008, 02:24 PM
By the way unless you are a professional contortionist remove the skid plate on the bottom and replace the belt from under the truck.
I'll take that as a compliment! :biggrin: Lets hope that takes care of it!!!
I'll take that as a compliment! :biggrin: Lets hope that takes care of it!!!
j cAT
09-09-2008, 05:56 PM
Any idea why this happens after about a month of being replaced. I have replaced three just because after about 40 days or so they just start squeeking. Anything you can spray on them just dries out within minutes. Usually starts after a rain or humid day...once it starts I cannot get it stop without replacing it.
GAT
the tensioner may be bad.. this should move with good spring tension of an equal amount ...if this is binding it could explain why new belts start to squeal after a few weeks...when installing the belt see that the tensioner is in the proper position as there are marks to show that the belt is not too long or short... when buying a new belt always check the belt length and width...and compare with your spec requirement..
Using grease on a belt is not a good idea, this will reduce the belt life..
GAT
the tensioner may be bad.. this should move with good spring tension of an equal amount ...if this is binding it could explain why new belts start to squeal after a few weeks...when installing the belt see that the tensioner is in the proper position as there are marks to show that the belt is not too long or short... when buying a new belt always check the belt length and width...and compare with your spec requirement..
Using grease on a belt is not a good idea, this will reduce the belt life..
Airjer_
09-09-2008, 11:19 PM
Di-electric grease will not effect the belt. Regular grease would not be a good choice.
j cAT
09-10-2008, 09:04 AM
Di-electric grease will not effect the belt. Regular grease would not be a good choice.
a new belt should not make any noises...if it does there is a defect here..
use of lubricants will cause slippage decreasing the belt life and possibly damaging the rubber compounds so that they lack the ability to resist wear..
this is a good thing to do if you don't want to spend money on a vehicle thats going to be sold...
a new belt should not make any noises...if it does there is a defect here..
use of lubricants will cause slippage decreasing the belt life and possibly damaging the rubber compounds so that they lack the ability to resist wear..
this is a good thing to do if you don't want to spend money on a vehicle thats going to be sold...
GAT
09-10-2008, 09:37 AM
Well at this point if the serp. belt goes bad down the road I have another one that is only a month old to put on. Also I am hoping the AC belt replacement takes care of the squeek anyway. Thank you for the advise and all the help from everyone. I would feel like crap if I sold a vehicle to someone with the problem hidden with Grease. I guess thats why I keep my trucks until they are only good for hauling wood or something then sell as is.
Airjer_
09-10-2008, 09:51 AM
Belts are designed to resist oil and grease. If they weren't than there would be a lot of belt failures due to the neglected repairs of all the misc. oil leaks that are commonly found on way to many vehicles on the road!
If I recall correctly quality belts are made from nitrile which is highly resistant to a lot of chemicals commonly in automotive applications.
Chrysler actually had a TSB back in the 80's that suggested coating the belt with di-electric grease (which will not effect common "rubber" like materials found in automotive applications, if it did there would be all kinds of degraded ignition components, fuel pump module seals-which they recommend and supply you with a tube of dielectric grease, bad injector o-rings, bloated weather pack seals on electrical connectors, and the list goes on) to help determine whether or not a noise was the belt or not.
I agree that there is likely another problem that isn't overwhelmingly obvious at this point. If this buys the poster some peaceful noise free time until the actual cause is determined than I'm all for it. This has solved the problem on many vehicles that I have personally dealt with. With no ill effects on reliability and durability.
The same thing with flipping the belt (turning the belt around so that it rotates in the opposite direction). I had stumbled on this years ago and to this day can not figure out why it stops squeaking when rotating in one direction but will squeak constantly while rotating in the opposite direction. You can rotate the belt as many times as you would like and it will consistently squeal or not squeal depending on which way it is rotating.
If I recall correctly quality belts are made from nitrile which is highly resistant to a lot of chemicals commonly in automotive applications.
Chrysler actually had a TSB back in the 80's that suggested coating the belt with di-electric grease (which will not effect common "rubber" like materials found in automotive applications, if it did there would be all kinds of degraded ignition components, fuel pump module seals-which they recommend and supply you with a tube of dielectric grease, bad injector o-rings, bloated weather pack seals on electrical connectors, and the list goes on) to help determine whether or not a noise was the belt or not.
I agree that there is likely another problem that isn't overwhelmingly obvious at this point. If this buys the poster some peaceful noise free time until the actual cause is determined than I'm all for it. This has solved the problem on many vehicles that I have personally dealt with. With no ill effects on reliability and durability.
The same thing with flipping the belt (turning the belt around so that it rotates in the opposite direction). I had stumbled on this years ago and to this day can not figure out why it stops squeaking when rotating in one direction but will squeak constantly while rotating in the opposite direction. You can rotate the belt as many times as you would like and it will consistently squeal or not squeal depending on which way it is rotating.
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