93' G30 van 4.3l V6 keeps stalling
juggalomobile
09-07-2008, 05:55 PM
weed
Airjer_
09-07-2008, 06:16 PM
I would pull out the fuel pump and inspect the conector on the inside of the sending unit. It is very possible that this connector is burned up. The symptom you describe sounds just like this problem. Make sure you have power to the fuel pump when it stalls also.
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j293/airjer/AF%20Stuff/sender.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j293/airjer/AF%20Stuff/sender.jpg
MT-2500
09-08-2008, 08:16 AM
Running out of fuel is hard on fuel pumps.
But Proper testing before throwing parts at it.
When no start or hard to start check for lose of fuel pressure and lose of spark to all plugs.
Is it a W or Z code engine.
A W code 4.3 fuel pressure specs are 55/61.
You need around 60 lbs on a start up.
The only true test on a fuel pump is to check the direct fuel pressure from fuel pump.
A quick test is to block off the return line and see if fuel pressure comes up to 75-85 lbs.
But do not run the pump at full pressure very long.
Also when testing fuel pump and pressure you need to tape a gauge to outside windshield or outside mirror and drive it on the road for 20 -30 minutes
Until the pump gets has run a while to check for a pump fading out after hot.
Hard to start cold or hot and fuel pressure testing guide lines.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressures.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
The specs on yours is 55/61 lbs pressure
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 55/61 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system.
Post-back fuel pressure readings.
Remember a fuel pump pressure regulator controls the pressure and maintains a steady pressure depending on engine load and vacuum.
It has to be capable of producing higher pressure than the regulated pressure.
The fuel pressure controls pressure and can leak off or bypass pressure
But Proper testing before throwing parts at it.
When no start or hard to start check for lose of fuel pressure and lose of spark to all plugs.
Is it a W or Z code engine.
A W code 4.3 fuel pressure specs are 55/61.
You need around 60 lbs on a start up.
The only true test on a fuel pump is to check the direct fuel pressure from fuel pump.
A quick test is to block off the return line and see if fuel pressure comes up to 75-85 lbs.
But do not run the pump at full pressure very long.
Also when testing fuel pump and pressure you need to tape a gauge to outside windshield or outside mirror and drive it on the road for 20 -30 minutes
Until the pump gets has run a while to check for a pump fading out after hot.
Hard to start cold or hot and fuel pressure testing guide lines.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressures.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
The specs on yours is 55/61 lbs pressure
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 55/61 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system.
Post-back fuel pressure readings.
Remember a fuel pump pressure regulator controls the pressure and maintains a steady pressure depending on engine load and vacuum.
It has to be capable of producing higher pressure than the regulated pressure.
The fuel pressure controls pressure and can leak off or bypass pressure
juggalomobile
09-08-2008, 04:51 PM
ok so i noticed the engine to frame ground is broken i have the new part i also got a new ignition control module wwhich ill be putting both into when the waether clears up! after that ill let u guys know how it runs, how ever today, I HAD TO get groceries so i drove 4 miles to the store each way, it stalled about 5 times on the way there, after spending about 2 hrs sitting i drove home and about 2 miles away it stalled out again, used starter fluid got it started drove a mile got into the turn lane and it went PUTT PUTT PUTT, but didnt stall out.... parked sat 15 minutes drove it away about 100 yards and she stalled out so for kicks i cranked it w/o starter fluid and she started ran 10 seconds stalled i repeated that and she stayed running, drove a mile, sat at a light and it went PUTT PUTT then stayed running but kinda moved forward some..... ODD??? huh... anyway im home now!!! been here about 15 minutes... its 550pm EST time.... LET ME NO WAT YOU ALL THINK.... THANKS A MILLION!!!!!
MT-2500
09-08-2008, 06:06 PM
Unless you want to blow the dip stick threw the hood only use carb cleaner as starting aid.
Fix that ground.
Do some proper testing to find the problem.
What is the fuel pressure doing when it acts up?
Post back fuel prssure readings and what engine you have.
Fix that ground.
Do some proper testing to find the problem.
What is the fuel pressure doing when it acts up?
Post back fuel prssure readings and what engine you have.
juggalomobile
09-08-2008, 06:22 PM
FUEL PRESSURE is ok.... its a 4.3l TBI V6 motor
MT-2500
09-08-2008, 06:48 PM
What is the readings?
juggalomobile
09-08-2008, 06:50 PM
i cant afford to have the fuel pressure tested but i have a new pump so i no the pressure is good.... i can drive this on the freeway all day at 85 mph with no stalling
Airjer_
09-08-2008, 10:59 PM
The new pump doesn't guarantee you have fuel pressure. Like I mentioned before if the contacts on the inside of the sending unit are burnt up it will affect the ability of the pump to receive the proper amount of current which will effect the fuel pressure.
At cruise there is the least amount of "stress" on the fuel and ignition system. It is entirely possible that the condition is there but is not noticeable.
You need to monitor fuel pressure when it stalls to see if this is the problem if it is than it will be easier to fix if not than you have ruled out 1 possibility. Since it starts every time with ether it sounds like you have a fuel issue unless its just plain coincidence. The new ignition module is a long shot. I would try wiggling the wires at the coil first. I have seen several times where the wire will break inside of the insulator and will look perfectly normal only to have the vehicle stall when they are wiggled.
The last question is does it feel like like you forgot to push in the clutch when you come up to the stop light. I guess that direction really doesn't make any sense because if the TCC solenoid was stuck it should start and idle fine until you put it into gear and then it should stall. I guess still worth asking.
Seriously you need to monitor fuel pressure. Until we know whether or not it is good based on fact than there is really nothing else to guess at. All the symptoms and things you have done to get it started lean toward a fuel issue!
At cruise there is the least amount of "stress" on the fuel and ignition system. It is entirely possible that the condition is there but is not noticeable.
You need to monitor fuel pressure when it stalls to see if this is the problem if it is than it will be easier to fix if not than you have ruled out 1 possibility. Since it starts every time with ether it sounds like you have a fuel issue unless its just plain coincidence. The new ignition module is a long shot. I would try wiggling the wires at the coil first. I have seen several times where the wire will break inside of the insulator and will look perfectly normal only to have the vehicle stall when they are wiggled.
The last question is does it feel like like you forgot to push in the clutch when you come up to the stop light. I guess that direction really doesn't make any sense because if the TCC solenoid was stuck it should start and idle fine until you put it into gear and then it should stall. I guess still worth asking.
Seriously you need to monitor fuel pressure. Until we know whether or not it is good based on fact than there is really nothing else to guess at. All the symptoms and things you have done to get it started lean toward a fuel issue!
juggalomobile
09-09-2008, 12:17 AM
how do u test the fuel pressure and is it alot of money???? i only have $100 to my name!! and my van is an automatic trans not a stick... no clutch!!
MT-2500
09-09-2008, 08:40 AM
The question in upper post was does it feel like a standard stuck in high gear.
You can not afford not to test fuel pressure.
Cheaper than throwing parts at it.
Buy or borrow or rent a fuel pressure gauge and check it out as outlined in upper post.
Some parts places rent or loan fuel pressure gauges.
Post back pressure readings and then we can help.
You can not afford not to test fuel pressure.
Cheaper than throwing parts at it.
Buy or borrow or rent a fuel pressure gauge and check it out as outlined in upper post.
Some parts places rent or loan fuel pressure gauges.
Post back pressure readings and then we can help.
Airjer_
09-09-2008, 10:28 AM
I realize its an automatic but I wanted to know if it felt like you forgot to push in the clutch right before it stalled. It was a long shot and I'm sure the answer is no.
You can find relatively cheap pressure gauges. It would be best to find one with the fitting that screws on to the GM test port. There all the same size, and this will give you the beast results for the least amount of work.
One last thought is to unplug the MAF (mass air flow) sensor and see if it drives any differently. It is quite possible that it is dirty or giving the wrong signal to the PCM and leaning things out to the point of stalling? If this improves the stalling issue I would clean it first with MAF sensor cleaner and see if that works.
I am still pretty confident that the sender in the tank is the problem!!
You can find relatively cheap pressure gauges. It would be best to find one with the fitting that screws on to the GM test port. There all the same size, and this will give you the beast results for the least amount of work.
One last thought is to unplug the MAF (mass air flow) sensor and see if it drives any differently. It is quite possible that it is dirty or giving the wrong signal to the PCM and leaning things out to the point of stalling? If this improves the stalling issue I would clean it first with MAF sensor cleaner and see if that works.
I am still pretty confident that the sender in the tank is the problem!!
juggalomobile
09-09-2008, 08:56 PM
ok so today i checked and replaced all my blown fuses, disconnected the battery for about 1 and 1/2 hrs, replaced the engine to frame ground, and replaced the ignition control moudule and sprayed down the arm thingy that moves when u give the car gas....i ran it 20 minutes and drove it about a mile no stalling, and then it sat for about 3 hrs then i went to work drove the van for about 2 and a half hrs straight NO STALLING!!!! i think its fixed but i will know tomorrow and will post a update then!!
Airjer_
09-09-2008, 11:17 PM
Boy is my face red!!
I would have never of thought that was it based on the sequence of events. Sounds like you got her licked and thats the important thing. Nice work!!
I would have never of thought that was it based on the sequence of events. Sounds like you got her licked and thats the important thing. Nice work!!
MT-2500
09-10-2008, 08:34 AM
Boy is my face red!!
I would have never of thought that was it based on the sequence of events. Sounds like you got her licked and that's the important thing. Nice work!!
Airjer
Do not feel bad about it.
You gave good advise based on no more information than you had and lack of cooperation from the poster on running proper test.
And the last post says he had blown fuse or fuses but did not say which ones.
You may still be right on the fuel pump.
Time will tell.
When people run them out of fuel it can and usually can cause damage to the fuel pump.
Keep up the good work.
MT
I would have never of thought that was it based on the sequence of events. Sounds like you got her licked and that's the important thing. Nice work!!
Airjer
Do not feel bad about it.
You gave good advise based on no more information than you had and lack of cooperation from the poster on running proper test.
And the last post says he had blown fuse or fuses but did not say which ones.
You may still be right on the fuel pump.
Time will tell.
When people run them out of fuel it can and usually can cause damage to the fuel pump.
Keep up the good work.
MT
Airjer_
09-10-2008, 09:57 AM
I'm not sweating it. Half the fun of automotive forums is the challenge of interpreting the problem and trying to rationalize a reasonable solution without being able to physical be there. I guess you could compare it to going deer hunting blindfolded and having somebody tell you where the deer is. Your going to miss a lot of them but eventually you're going to get a hit! :grinyes:
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